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Posted

I know this has been asked before but the Photobucket issues are making finding examples impossible. Basically I'm trying to fabricate some headers from aluminium wire and am struggling. I was wondering if anyone had a WIP photo to show the process they used (aluminium wire or any other alternative).

These are the ones I'm trying to replicate

https://s1.promotionsupplies.com/ebay/cxmotorsports/images/turbo_kit/cxm-TRB-Kit-Supra-Mk4-CB-CAR-2.jpg

Thanks

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

There is a company in the UK, "Cornwall Model Boats", that makes styrene rod that is easily  bendable and stays set.  I've ordered some from them but have not tried it yet.  I read about this on this online forum.  I can say that it is not expensive at all, even considering shipping.  

Posted

Cheers. Haven't had much bench time recently but will try the solder first since that is locally available.

Posted (edited)

I recently made a set for a dragster. These kind of spooked me because not only were they attached to the heads but they had to exit the full body through slots. I drilled the heads out to accept the solder and temporarily glued one in place(made it a bit longer at the cylinder head so it slid into the hole) Once adjusted in place the remainders were fairly easy. The primaries were glued together and a small strap went across all 4 pipes to strengthen the set .The valve covers cover the holes and the longer stubs of the headers.

Edited by Alix Bernard
Posted

These were made pretty much like Alix describes above. The ends are shink sleeves over a short piece of tubing. The shrink sleeves are too thick though.

DSC_0239.jpg

Posted

There is a company in the UK, "Cornwall Model Boats", that makes styrene rod that is easily  bendable and stays set.  I've ordered some from them but have not tried it yet.  I read about this on this online forum.  I can say that it is not expensive at all, even considering shipping.  

Would have a part number?  I looked and only found Evergreen rod.  is that it?

Posted

Hopefully, the acid won't slowly leak out and mess up your paint or glue connections. Next time, use a solid-core (no flux, be it acid or resin) solder.

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