modelfink Posted August 8, 2018 Author Posted August 8, 2018 (edited) 10 minutes ago, Foxer said: That looks like an accumulation of clearances. Is there some added clearance of the grill against the radiator that could be made by scraping the shell? I can see the large gap of the shell against the frame ... should fit tight there. The engine mount seems very positive. Everything in front of the engine looks tight, but a lot of space could open here by filing all mounting surfaces, especially the fan belts mount. Just food for thought. good point about the grill shell against the frame. I will shave and sand that area to get the radiator and grill shell to fit better. In reality, the radiator should be inside the shell rather than outside of it anyway. I need to do some work there. Not sure what you mean about filing all mounting surfaces. I'm still tweaking the fan pulley to get the fan to sit back a little, otherwise the fan clears. barely. Edited August 8, 2018 by modelfink
Ballroad Posted August 8, 2018 Posted August 8, 2018 I really like the build that's going on, will stay tuned in,......
Foxer Posted August 8, 2018 Posted August 8, 2018 10 minutes ago, modelfink said: Not sure what you mean about filing all mounting surfaces. I'm still tweaking the fan pulley to get the fan to sit back a little, otherwise the fan clears. barely. I just meant what you're doing with the fan. The 3 pieces mounted to the front of the engine meed to be sanded to fit tight together to minimize interference. I know it all glued already but your work on the radiator-shell fit may make taking this apart unnecessary.
modelfink Posted August 8, 2018 Author Posted August 8, 2018 29 minutes ago, Foxer said: I just meant what you're doing with the fan. The 3 pieces mounted to the front of the engine meed to be sanded to fit tight together to minimize interference. I know it all glued already but your work on the radiator-shell fit may make taking this apart unnecessary. the engine assembly is still in pieces, so I can sand and shave as necessary to fit.
jaxenro Posted August 8, 2018 Posted August 8, 2018 I think if you can set the radiator deeper into the grill shell you will pick up quite a bit
dino246gt Posted August 10, 2018 Posted August 10, 2018 Yeah, just sand around the perimeter of the rad, and if necessary, sand the inside opening of the grill shell, make the shell go back as far as you need by it sliding over the rad. This is my '29 with the '32 shell. I've got the rad so far into the shell that I had to make a "neck" for the rad cap!
modelfink Posted August 21, 2018 Author Posted August 21, 2018 I think I have resolved my grill/radiator issue. The 32 grill shell from the Rat Roaster kit allows the radiator to sit inside rather than stuck onto the shell. It looks more like the real thing and moves the radiator forward just enough for fan clearance. I made a radiator mounting tab by cutting an angled piece of styrene and filing the back of the radiator so it will fit flush. I still have to drill mounting holes and install small posts to finish the radiator assembly. Side Note: A fellow modeler sent me a Monogram 32 hood. Turns out I will not need it. It's a tad longer but the same width at the cowl and grill. Something to keep in mind for future projects.
Modelbuilder Mark Posted August 26, 2018 Posted August 26, 2018 On 8/6/2018 at 12:23 PM, modelfink said: I know I am very likely too late to the party on this one, but my vote for you is B.
modelfink Posted September 27, 2018 Author Posted September 27, 2018 I'm finally getting into some paint with this thing. There's more chrome on this engine than in my last 3 projects combined. I fabricated a generator bracket and removed the molded fan belt and made one out of tape. I capped off the manual fuel pump with a finned breather cap from the Revell 40 street rod kit. The carb breathers are from the AMT 34 coupe. I was surprised at how well the Molotow chrome matched the kit chrome. Next step is plug wires and fuel lines.
modelfink Posted October 5, 2018 Author Posted October 5, 2018 The Olds Engine is done, wired and fuel lines installed. Frame has been painted, rear end installed and the front portion of the exhaust system has been chromed and installed. It's going together pretty good after paint, however, a few locating pins have snapped causing me to consider using metal pins for future builds.
modelfink Posted October 23, 2018 Author Posted October 23, 2018 I'm kinda on the home stretch with this thing. I'm using the 40 dash provided in the Revell 5 window kit and the 50 Olds steering wheel. Those Oldsmobile steering wheels are a work of art! I tried replicating the cool center section as best as I could. Also, a little sneak peek at the body color. Tamiya Mica Red over Gunmetal. I'm in the midst of painting the body now, so a final update should be around the corner.
espo Posted October 25, 2018 Posted October 25, 2018 The dash and steering wheel color look almost like a dark Candy Apple Red.
modelfink Posted October 29, 2018 Author Posted October 29, 2018 I got the body painted and polished this weekend. I'm on the home stretch now. I'll admit, painting and polishing is not my strong suit but the Tamiya products make it a little easier for those of us without an airbrush. Paint is Tamiya Mica Red over Tamiya Gunmetal with a top coat of Testors Wet Look Clear. Polished with the Tamiya compounds.
fordlover632 Posted October 30, 2018 Posted October 30, 2018 I looks grate I did a lot of my cars I smiler color of red but my was from gravity colors and the color was Ford ruby red.
modelfink Posted October 31, 2018 Author Posted October 31, 2018 (edited) I finished this one just in time for the NNL show in Atlanta this Saturday. More pics and a full parts list are posted in the Under Glass section Edited October 31, 2018 by modelfink
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