" Foil Transfer " : What am I doing Wrong ?

[StevenGuthmiller]

22 minutes ago, Super28 said:

Didn't know it will stick that good. I will give it a try.

 

SO, I will use bare metal foil, apply it before paint and clean it up between coats!

 

You don't necessarily have to "foil before paint  and clean up between coats".

You can wait until you are ready to apply your last color coat or 2 before applying the foil.

That way, there is less paint to clean off of the foil & you don't have to do it repeatedly.

 

Steve

 

Here are a couple of photos of what to expect when you are finished.

[SfanGoch]

23 minutes ago, 89AKurt said:

I should watch this topic.  I have a VW bus emblem that I want to make separate.  Was thinking of making an RTV mold on the body, then remove it from the body so the paint can be smooth in that area, then cast a new emblem.  Looks like some tips here might help.

You can also use Alumilite Amazing Mold Putty

to make a cast of the emblem. I've been using it to make casts of entire grilles and bumpers, placing the mold over broken/damaged ones. Then, I use fiberglass resin applied directly to the backside of the grille/bumper and onto the mold. When the resin hardens, it's a perfect repair with all of the details of the original. I also use this stuff to make one piece molds of taillight lenses by forming the putty around the original, leaving the mounting pin on the back slightly exposed so I can pull the part out with tweezers. I fill the cavity with the resin by injecting it with an industrial syringe with a blunt tip.

It certainly beats the hell out of paying 15 bucks for a pair of tiny, "rare", "vintage" chunks of plastic.

[Super28]

1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

You don't necessarily have to "foil before paint  and clean up between coats".

You can wait until you are ready to apply your last color coat or 2 before applying the foil.

That way, there is less paint to clean off of the foil & you don't have to do it repeatedly.

 

Steve

 

Here are a couple of photos of what to expect when you are finished.

Looks great, but I lose clarity by the time I get to the final paint coat. Is this the way it should look?

[StevenGuthmiller]

8 minutes ago, Super28 said:

Looks great, but I lose clarity by the time I get to the final paint coat. Is this the way it should look?

Looks pretty good.

Just be certain that the edges of the piece of foil are burnished down well before paint application.

If the edges stick up a little, they could possibly show through the paint.

Personally, I do larger trim pieces such as the rear quarter "vents" after I'm finished with all of the painting.

I only use the "foil under paint" technique for very small items that are difficult to finish after painting, such as scripts, small emblems & door and trunk locks.

I would probably do the small emblem under the Thunderbird script as well.

Another fun thing that can be done with this method is after cleaning off the foil, you can add detail paint to small emblems & clean it off the same way giving you some nice colored emblems.

This '61 Buick trunk emblem was the ultimate test of this technique.

It was a very faint detail, but it came out well.

 

Steve

 

 

 

It should give you a nice affect on the fender badge.

 

 

 

Steve

 

[Super28]

49 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Looks pretty good.

Just be certain that the edges of the piece of foil are burnished down well before paint application.

If the edges stick up a little, they could possibly show through the paint.

Personally, I do larger trim pieces such as the rear quarter "vents" after I'm finished with all of the painting.

I only use the "foil under paint" technique for very small items that are difficult to finish after painting, such as scripts, small emblems & door and trunk locks.

I would probably do the small emblem under the Thunderbird script as well.

Another fun thing that can be done with this method is after cleaning off the foil, you can add detail paint to small emblems & clean it off the same way giving you some nice colored emblems.

This '61 Buick trunk emblem was the ultimate test of this technique.

It was a very faint detail, but it came out well.

 

Steve

 

 

 

It should give you a nice affect on the fender badge.

 

 

 

Steve

 

Darn, you're good! LOL.

 

Edited November 15, 2018 by Super28

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, Super28 said:

Darn, you're good! LOL.

 

Thanks Terry, but believe me, anyone can do it.

Just takes a little patience.

 

Steve

[89AKurt]

21 hours ago, SfanGoch said:

You can also use Alumilite Amazing Mold Putty

to make a cast of the emblem. I've been using it to make casts of entire grilles and bumpers, placing the mold over broken/damaged ones. Then, I use fiberglass resin applied directly to the backside of the grille/bumper and onto the mold. When the resin hardens, it's a perfect repair with all of the details of the original. I also use this stuff to make one piece molds of taillight lenses by forming the putty around the original, leaving the mounting pin on the back slightly exposed so I can pull the part out with tweezers. I fill the cavity with the resin by injecting it with an industrial syringe with a blunt tip.

It certainly beats the hell out of paying 15 bucks for a pair of tiny, "rare", "vintage" chunks of plastic.

Thank you!  I have some small disposable pipettes that should work.