coopdad Posted August 11, 2008 Posted August 11, 2008 Guys, I am looking to do a little "free form" sculpting on one of my current builds and wondered it someone could suggest a product. I have thought Bondo would work but it might it will be a little hard to sand after it is dry (I assume). I am looking for something like Play-Doe. Has anyone tried Scupley? John
Eshaver Posted August 11, 2008 Posted August 11, 2008 I use Bondo aaalll the time for such things . The trick is to do youre samding right after the Plastic " Kicks " thyat way its really not too hard. I carve with the usual # 11 blades , dig stuff out with dental picks , screw drivers etc Ed Shaver
george 53 Posted August 11, 2008 Posted August 11, 2008 Coop, personally I use Evercoat Eurosoft for custom stuff.It sands pretty easy when its dry,But like Ed said, if you work it before it fully sets, it's alot easier to mold an shape.
novadose71 Posted August 11, 2008 Posted August 11, 2008 I don't think I ever sculpted with filler glaze, but I have molded parts with it, and I've definitely carved it after it sets up. It comes in handy quite often. Sculpey is more like clay than play-doh. A few guys in our club use it to make items for our diorama's. They make some pretty detailed stuff with it, and use it to modify figures too. It does have to be baked to harden, but I don't remember the temp.
JHDrew Posted August 11, 2008 Posted August 11, 2008 I second that. I third that and you can buy it from Greg's new sponsor Micro Mark Oh, and spend the extra money on the "super fine" Micro-Mark Web Site
coopdad Posted August 12, 2008 Author Posted August 12, 2008 I knew I could rely on you guys. Thanks all for the info. I will head to the LHS this weekend and grab some milliputt. I hope to post pix of my "sculpture" very soon. Thanks again, John
Brian Fishburn Posted August 12, 2008 Posted August 12, 2008 Hey, Coop- you mentioned your LHS. How's Knoxville set up for hobby shops? As soon as our house sells, we're headed your way. Not in Knox County, but close enough to work and go to school in Knoxville. I'd also be looking for a good club to join, too.
CAL Posted August 12, 2008 Posted August 12, 2008 I knew I could rely on you guys. Thanks all for the info. I will head to the LHS this weekend and grab some milliputt. I hope to post pix of my "sculpture" very soon. Thanks again, John And depending on your "scupture" there are some tricks to working with this stuff.
djway3474 Posted August 12, 2008 Posted August 12, 2008 There is another two part putty at the hobby shop and it is Yello Blue putty. The box has all kinds of figures and dragons skulpted with the stuff. I have used it a couple of times and it is great stuff. One tube yellow putty and the other is a blue putty which gives you a green putty when mixed. Just a little water on the fingers and it is very easy to work with. I got mine at Pegasus out here in So Cal. DJ
coopdad Posted August 12, 2008 Author Posted August 12, 2008 After hardned, does Yellow Blue putty or milliputt become close to the hardness (for lack of a better word) of the styrene itself? That would be ideal... a clay that ends up exactly like styrene in its carving and sanding properties. I am scratch-building a Mater of the future and sculpting is the best description I can think of to describe making lips and teeth. Thanks, John
CAL Posted August 12, 2008 Posted August 12, 2008 After hardned, does Yellow Blue putty or milliputt become close to the hardness (for lack of a better word) of the styrene itself? That would be ideal... a clay that ends up exactly like styrene in its carving and sanding properties. I am scratch-building a Mater of the future and sculpting is the best description I can think of to describe making lips and teeth. Thanks, John Milliputt is probably a little harder than styrene, but is still sands, drills, cuts, files, and grinds easily. If it is a big piece you may want to use an amature, I would also use plumber putty, another two part epoxy putty found in the hardware store, to get a real rough shape made and finish with milliputt. Milliputt is expesive and there is no sense on using a ton of it just to take up space. Use the cheap stuff, plumbers putty for that and do you final work with milliputt over your rough structure.
dave riggs Posted August 12, 2008 Posted August 12, 2008 I have used super skulptey for odd shaped pieces, and I have found it pretty easy to work with. I just bake it in a toaster oven for about 5 minutes. Here is a picture from a intake I built with it. http://www.largescalemodeler.com/gallery/s...0&ppuser=12 The main thing in working with it is to take your time and get it right before you bake it. It is kind of soft after baking, like an eraser, and that makes it hard to sand. Dave
Aaronw Posted August 13, 2008 Posted August 13, 2008 I've used Magic Sculp, its fairly easy to use and is hard when it sets up. http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=110&
CAL Posted August 13, 2008 Posted August 13, 2008 I have used sculpty before too. It is good for somethings. It is harder to work with and doesn't sand as well as Milliputt.
duffer Posted August 13, 2008 Posted August 13, 2008 I'm a big Bondo fan. Here's a 1/8th buck I made out iif it:
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