Tommy124 Posted March 7, 2019 Posted March 7, 2019 And here I was thinking that Aoshima are the ones to have found a better way of fitting body parts to each other... Seems as though it's the same business as with so many kits. First trying to glue in the painted parts, then cutting and trimming those parts to make them fit, glueing in additional SB parts for those painted parts to be reasonably fixed somehow, then the next attempt of glueing in the painted parts... I just hate this. Looks like you solved it though and you are done with this very soon.
Matt Bacon Posted March 7, 2019 Author Posted March 7, 2019 I hear you, Thomas! Anyway, after yesterdays mis-step, I think I really can call this built. A bit of time to set solid, clean up the greasy fingermarks, and the decals, and she'll be ready for her close-up... As you can tell from the "Band-Aids," my worries that bits of the bodywork would break loose as I flexed it to fit over the chassis were well founded. If I was doing another one -- or if you're tempted after reading this -- it might be a good idea to leave off the diffuser under tray from the back end assembly until right at the end. With the under tray in place, both ends of the the chassis have to be pushed into the bodywork, flexing it front and back. Without the diffuser, I think you could get the front end locking tabs in place, and then swing the chassis up into the bodyshell, with easy access to the previously mentioned flexible vertical end plate into which the rear tabs slot, to make sure they are properly seated in their slots. The diffuser should then be easy to glue to its mounting lugs from below... Now, then... numberplates ;-P best, M.
Dann Tier Posted March 15, 2019 Posted March 15, 2019 BEAUTIFUL job!!!, and that CF looks killer!!!....great technique, bud!!!
Samuel S Posted March 16, 2019 Posted March 16, 2019 How did you apply the carbon to the rear bits? It looks great.
Matt Bacon Posted March 16, 2019 Author Posted March 16, 2019 Hi, @Samuel S It’s done like this: bestz, M.
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