Molotow Chrome Questions

[andy12646]

It seems there are a lot of different opinions as to the drying time for the Molotow chrome finish. Anywhere from 24 hours to one month. Anyway, has anyone tried using a dehydrator or is this a bad idea due to the metallic nature of the paint? Also, when the paint IS dry........does the part accept a wash as well as any other painted or chromed finish? How about clear coat vs Pledge over Molotow chrome?

[El Roberto]

You mean like a food dehydrator?   Wouldn't think it would harm the Molotow  but don't take my word for it. 

Clear coats don't look real good over it, I've tried and it didn't work very well.  The only places I use the Molotow is where the piece won't be handled, like interior hardware or tail light lens.  Painting tail lights or turn signals with the chrome then covering with Tamiya clear really works great.

[StevenGuthmiller]

I have my concerns about using Molotow chrome for anything large like bumpers or grilles.

Not only because of possible issues with things like washes, but just for general long term durability.

I have yet to hear of any real success with any top coats that protect the finish and maintain the chrome like reflectivity.

The stuff works great for small parts that get little to no handling, but even with those, I find that I need to go back and touch up those parts after assembly because even slight handling can result in the dulling of the finish.

It's just not trust worthy enough in my opinion for large external parts that will be possibly handled and marred over the long term.

 

Steve

Edited February 12, 2019 by StevenGuthmiller

[Deathgoblin]

I usually use them for touch-up on chrome that has been damaged and it comes out awesome.  Definitely let it dry for at least a few days before handling.  I've played with it a little on trim and it came out well, but I'd just as soon use foil for that.

[andy12646]

Thanks for your input, Guys! Greatly appreciated!

[Tommy124]

I have used Molotov Liquid Chrome applied by airbrush and sealed the surface using Alclad Aqua Gloss, which to my knowledge is not much different to Pledge, Future and the like.

I have no doubts about the durability of MLC per se, but - as Steven rightfully pointed out - parts that require further handling will have to be protected. Using Alclad Aqua Gloss will help in doing this but be aware that a "portion" of the sheen will get lost anyway. Still a good result (I think at least) but you will notice it when comparing sealed and non-sealed parts.

This is how it worked out on some of my builds:

Another way to go is brush-painting bumpers etc. with MLC when they are already mounted to the body. Sounds like a dangerous venture, but in fact, MLC is rather thickish and covers very well. You have to be a bit careful but that's always required with a brush in hand, right? The upside of this method is that you don't have to seal it as the parts are already mounted to the body and don't require further handling/ touching.

[ZTony8]

It's heaven sent for vent window frames and other small mouldings, not so much for large areas like bumpers. It's better over dark colors, not so hot over silver or other light colors.