Scale-Master Posted October 2, 2019 Author Share Posted October 2, 2019 I had Fraxional grow me a second bellhousing after I reengineered the center section where the transmission mounts to it. (Very easy to deal with this 3D printing service.) More magnets are used to hold these sub-assemblies together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porschercr Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 5, 2019 Author Share Posted October 5, 2019 Thanks Trevor. Since I'm not using the magneto (I'll make a distributor) I have to add an alternator. I designed a proper Delco-Remy alternator in SolidWorks and it will be printed by Fraxional. To make it look more realistic I made it in four main pieces. I'll machine the pulley later as well as the other hardware and electrical connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reeves Racing Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 On 10/4/2019 at 9:06 PM, Scale-Master said: Thanks Trevor. Since I'm not using the magneto (I'll make a distributor) I have to add an alternator. I designed a proper Delco-Remy alternator in SolidWorks and it will be printed by Fraxional. To make it look more realistic I made it in four main pieces. I'll machine the pulley later as well as the other hardware and electrical connectors. That looks like a SI alternator Mark, wouldn't a car of that era have an external regulator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 7, 2019 Author Share Posted October 7, 2019 Nope, it is the correct unit for this application. As I have mentioned before, this is a street car. There are quite a few things that differ on it from a '60s era race car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 7, 2019 Author Share Posted October 7, 2019 Now that I have the bellhousing to positively locate the engine, I can start to make the front motor mounts. Good old sheet styrene fabrication… Front: Rear: Dry fitted: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 8, 2019 Author Share Posted October 8, 2019 Once I mocked up the heads with the headers on the engine in its final orientation due to the motor mounts I could see the headers should have a little more clearance around the rear shock upper mounting points. They fit, but I wouldn't want the heat from them on a real car. I used a metal wedge and a hair dryer to bend the pipes. I had to replace the header flanges too, luckily Fraxional provided me with a second set before I decided to make this change. I also had to lengthen the inboard pipes on both headers with some Plastruct tubing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeRS Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 I just read through this entire thread, and now my head hurts! So many great ideas to take in. I love the use of magnets and the 3D printed parts. This is an epic build. Keep up the amazing work. I'll be watching with interest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 15, 2019 Author Share Posted October 15, 2019 Thanks Sonny. I'll try not to disappoint... Rear hub carriers. Step one, remove the brake calipers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 16, 2019 Author Share Posted October 16, 2019 Front spindles. Step one, remove the brake calipers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 16, 2019 Author Share Posted October 16, 2019 Rear lower control arms. Left is kit part as it comes. On the right is the reworked one ready for brass and aluminum hardware upgrades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 16, 2019 Author Share Posted October 16, 2019 Reworked and assembled rear hub carriers. Brass tubing was added for the hinge points and open holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porschercr Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 Outstanding work the Lola, as well as all your builds Mark. Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 Thank you Trevor! I added two more "ears" to the front bulkhead for the front shock and upper control arm mounting points (per photos of real T-70s). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 18, 2019 Author Share Posted October 18, 2019 Front upper control arms as they come in the kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 18, 2019 Author Share Posted October 18, 2019 New fittings and bushings for the front pivot points. Machined aluminum & brass with steel reinforcements. Both arms with upgraded front bushings and adjusters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reeves Racing Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 On 10/7/2019 at 11:03 AM, Scale-Master said: Nope, it is the correct unit for this application. As I have mentioned before, this is a street car. There are quite a few things that differ on it from a '60s era race car. Ah, I missed the modern street car comment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 And new fittings for the rear pivot points, same construction as the front ones. Upper control arms dry fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete J. Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 Mark, I suppose you are sick and tired of answering questions about the magnets, but I will ask anyway. How do you locate them on the model? Do you set the part and drill through both parts and then fill the hole or what. I just bought a bunch of 1mm and 3mm and would like to use the heck out of them. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 I sent you an email Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 20, 2019 Author Share Posted October 20, 2019 I started drawing up the calipers. This is an inboard half. Still more details to be added. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 21, 2019 Author Share Posted October 21, 2019 More details and the other (outer) side. The rotors will be machined; I just wanted a blank to make sure it would all fit later. Now to make the pads... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 22, 2019 Author Share Posted October 22, 2019 Brake Pads, more designing in SolidWorks… Ready to send off to Fraxional for growing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 26, 2019 Author Share Posted October 26, 2019 The start of the aluminum rims. Some T6-6061 stock and a wooden angle block with 22 and 27 degree angles cut into it. The block was indexed to the tilt-table as a secondary measure to ensure the angles were uniform on all the wheels. First round of cutting; this will be a rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted October 26, 2019 Author Share Posted October 26, 2019 This is a rear… Still raw and needs to be refined. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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