Geoff(rey) Bodine’s #60 POWERTEAM Chevy

[Seann Anderson]

This is the 4th completed car that I’ve been proud to share with the board. Geoff’s my favorite driver from back in the day, so you’ll be seeing quite a few more builds of his.

The decals were quite brittle, so I bought two sets and put a healthy amount of acrylic on them. Between the two, I finished the car and had to clear it due to the satin-esque finish on the decals. I glued the wheels on the car to get better placement of them.

My next personal challenge is to learn how to sand and polish the finish. I want to be able to remove the orange peel texture.

I’d love to hear feedback and advice on how I can improve. Thank you in advance.

-Seann

[Jim N]

Great job Seann.  Looks really nice.  Your decal work is superb.

[bbowser]

4 hours ago, Jim N said:

Great job Seann.  Looks really nice.  Your decal work is superb.

I agree.  Where did you source the decals?

[DPNM]

Your build looks good.

You do not mention what type finish you are getting the orange peel with. Lacquer, enamel, water-base etc. It may be helpful to know.

 

[Seann Anderson]

1 hour ago, bbowser said:

I agree.  Where did you source the decals?

They’re Slixx decals from mikesdecals.com 

[Seann Anderson]

9 minutes ago, DPNM said:

Your build looks good.

You do not mention what type finish you are getting the orange peel with. Lacquer, enamel, water-base etc. It may be helpful to know.

 

It’s model master lacquer.

[DPNM]

There are a lot of variables and I hope someone more knowledgeable will help to answer your question. I have never used Model Master lacquer so I can not give you a specific answer.

I usually use either DupliColor lacquer  or finger-nail polish thinned with lacquer. My paint usually blushes, which is moisture trapped under the sprayed surface. I generally spray from the rattle can so adding retarder is not an option. Lotsa humid days here in the 'Burgh.

I believe that you will need to sand the orange peel down until you have a smooth, dull surface. You need to be very, very careful sanding on edges, corners and raised parts, (as in the key hole on a door for example). Too much sanding and you will sand through your top coat. Once it's sanded smooth you need to polish it. This is open to what would be the best polish for you. I have my own way but it takes considerably more time.

You did not say how you apply it, rattle can, airbrush etc. You may want to experiment on distance from the surface and the speed with which you spray. This may make a difference.

I hope this helps and as said earlier, I hope someone more knowledgeable helps you out.

[MarkJ]

Nice job. If you want to sand and polish to get rid of the orange peel, get you a  sandpaper set that comes starting with 1500 and ending up with  12000. Wet sand a little with each paper and by the time you get to 12000 the finish will be mirror smooth. Just be careful not to sand through to the primer. Its tedious work but if you are successful you will be happy with the results. You will still need to clear though to get that final optimum look.

[Seann Anderson]

12 hours ago, DPNM said:

There are a lot of variables and I hope someone more knowledgeable will help to answer your question. I have never used Model Master lacquer so I can not give you a specific answer.

I usually use either DupliColor lacquer  or finger-nail polish thinned with lacquer. My paint usually blushes, which is moisture trapped under the sprayed surface. I generally spray from the rattle can so adding retarder is not an option. Lotsa humid days here in the 'Burgh.

I believe that you will need to sand the orange peel down until you have a smooth, dull surface. You need to be very, very careful sanding on edges, corners and raised parts, (as in the key hole on a door for example). Too much sanding and you will sand through your top coat. Once it's sanded smooth you need to polish it. This is open to what would be the best polish for you. I have my own way but it takes considerably more time.

You did not say how you apply it, rattle can, airbrush etc. You may want to experiment on distance from the surface and the speed with which you spray. This may make a difference.

I hope this helps and as said earlier, I hope someone more knowledgeable helps you out.

Thank you for the input. I used one of the small rattle cans. I'm not familiar with the 2k clear cote, but it seems quite popular on here?

[Seann Anderson]

14 minutes ago, MarkJ said:

Nice job. If you want to sand and polish to get rid of the orange peel, get you a  sandpaper set that comes starting with 1500 and ending up with  12000. Wet sand a little with each paper and by the time you get to 12000 the finish will be mirror smooth. Just be careful not to sand through to the primer. Its tedious work but if you are successful you will be happy with the results. You will still need to clear though to get that final optimum look.

Noted. I've seen those kits at Hobby Lobby, I'll pick one up the next time I've over there. Thank you Mark. 

[Jonathan]

Really nice build there!

[MarkJ]

On 10/1/2019 at 8:10 AM, Seann Anderson said:

Noted. I've seen those kits at Hobby Lobby, I'll pick one up the next time I've over there. Thank you Mark. 

Yes, Ive seen them at Hobby Lobby too. Make sure you wet sand. I usually sit down with a bowl of water with a drop of dish detergent in it. Works much faster and better.