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Posted

I ran into that when building the brockway dump truck , ended up leaving alone ..but it kinda bugs me now . 

One idea would to add a spacer between front  axle and springs to lift the front slightly . 

Posted

Another problem, I tacked the frnders on to check the track and that Ford axle makes it way too wide. Its configuration doesn't  allow just removing material in the middle as the upturn gets too close to the springs. Maybe remaving some thickness off the drums as well and making an indent in the back of the drum to allow the flange to be inset...

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Posted

Wow , the wheels really protrude from the fenders.   Is it possible to use a smaller truck axle under it , something like an Opal or era truck ?  

 

Posted
12 minutes ago, gotnitro? said:

Wow , the wheels really protrude from the fenders.   Is it possible to use a smaller truck axle under it , something like an Opal or era truck ?  

 

Likely, but I don't have one. Instead,  I worked the drums to narrow the track. A brad point bit of a Forstner bit  might have done a cleaner job but like Sir Harry used to say :  Don't sweat what you can't see.

 

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Posted

Since the hood won't open, all I need is a dummy engine which can pass for a large six from underneath. I had cast some Zephyr V12 with the intention of doing some  Ardun conversions but since I found another source, I can use one of those. Fabricated a tie rod and a driveshaft as well.

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Posted

Can anyone hazard a guess as to what color the wheels might have been in the first picture before the oil, mud and dust?

Posted
27 minutes ago, gotnitro? said:

Excellent fabrication!  I've really gotta learn how to make 2 part molds,  invaluable skill to have 

I hate to disappoint you Jeff, but these are all one part. I yet have to learn the two port mold myself. Thank you for the kind comment.

Posted

Front track width is something I've run into with the older trucks, it's the front springs that is the problem.  You've figured out one solution, hey, whatever works..  Modern stuff is just too wide.  As for the rear height, most of the trucks of the era you are building were under-sprung, meaning springs were too weak.  You'll see more pics of them sitting on the ground than up in the air.  I ran into the same thing with my White 3000 build, the Lindberg Dodge tractor's butt was sitting high in the air.  I picked up the front a bit but was also able to remove a couple of leafs from the rear as the axle was below the springs.

Posted
4 hours ago, landman said:

Can anyone hazard a guess as to what color the wheels might have been in the first picture before the oil, mud and dust?

Wheels and rims look gray to me.  Maybe battleship gray as there was plenty of that color paint left after WW2.

Posted

Also looks like you could remove some material from the bottom of the spring hangers where they contact the frame.  Can't tell from the photo angle if the bottom bolts of the hangers are below the frame but looks like it.  Looks to be plenty of meat on those castings.....

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Warren D said:

You could always put a small block between the rear axle and springs to lower the rear of the frame.  Might look a bit odd though.

I put the axle above the springs rather than below as it was before. That leveled it. Not sure how it would affect the load bearing in real life though. All the weight would be on the u-bolts.

Edited by landman
Posted

Added u-bolts to thew front. Ended up having to remove the axle from the truck to be able to do it. This could have been done a lot more easily earlier. welcome to the golden age.?

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