landman Posted January 9, 2020 Author Posted January 9, 2020 The front suspension cast from the Louisville seems to work fine.
landman Posted January 9, 2020 Author Posted January 9, 2020 The rear however has a "hind up" stance. I imagine it would settle down a bit under load. Any opinions?
gotnitro? Posted January 9, 2020 Posted January 9, 2020 I ran into that when building the brockway dump truck , ended up leaving alone ..but it kinda bugs me now . One idea would to add a spacer between front axle and springs to lift the front slightly .
landman Posted January 12, 2020 Author Posted January 12, 2020 Another problem, I tacked the frnders on to check the track and that Ford axle makes it way too wide. Its configuration doesn't allow just removing material in the middle as the upturn gets too close to the springs. Maybe remaving some thickness off the drums as well and making an indent in the back of the drum to allow the flange to be inset...
gotnitro? Posted January 12, 2020 Posted January 12, 2020 Wow , the wheels really protrude from the fenders. Is it possible to use a smaller truck axle under it , something like an Opal or era truck ?
landman Posted January 12, 2020 Author Posted January 12, 2020 12 minutes ago, gotnitro? said: Wow , the wheels really protrude from the fenders. Is it possible to use a smaller truck axle under it , something like an Opal or era truck ? Likely, but I don't have one. Instead, I worked the drums to narrow the track. A brad point bit of a Forstner bit might have done a cleaner job but like Sir Harry used to say : Don't sweat what you can't see.
landman Posted January 13, 2020 Author Posted January 13, 2020 Since the hood won't open, all I need is a dummy engine which can pass for a large six from underneath. I had cast some Zephyr V12 with the intention of doing some Ardun conversions but since I found another source, I can use one of those. Fabricated a tie rod and a driveshaft as well.
landman Posted January 14, 2020 Author Posted January 14, 2020 Can anyone hazard a guess as to what color the wheels might have been in the first picture before the oil, mud and dust?
gotnitro? Posted January 14, 2020 Posted January 14, 2020 Excellent fabrication! I've really gotta learn how to make 2 part molds, invaluable skill to have
landman Posted January 14, 2020 Author Posted January 14, 2020 27 minutes ago, gotnitro? said: Excellent fabrication! I've really gotta learn how to make 2 part molds, invaluable skill to have I hate to disappoint you Jeff, but these are all one part. I yet have to learn the two port mold myself. Thank you for the kind comment.
landman Posted January 14, 2020 Author Posted January 14, 2020 Moved the tie rod to the front as it interfered with the oil pan. Fabricated an exhaust using wire and parts bin stuff.
Warren D Posted January 14, 2020 Posted January 14, 2020 Front track width is something I've run into with the older trucks, it's the front springs that is the problem. You've figured out one solution, hey, whatever works.. Modern stuff is just too wide. As for the rear height, most of the trucks of the era you are building were under-sprung, meaning springs were too weak. You'll see more pics of them sitting on the ground than up in the air. I ran into the same thing with my White 3000 build, the Lindberg Dodge tractor's butt was sitting high in the air. I picked up the front a bit but was also able to remove a couple of leafs from the rear as the axle was below the springs.
Warren D Posted January 14, 2020 Posted January 14, 2020 4 hours ago, landman said: Can anyone hazard a guess as to what color the wheels might have been in the first picture before the oil, mud and dust? Wheels and rims look gray to me. Maybe battleship gray as there was plenty of that color paint left after WW2.
landman Posted January 15, 2020 Author Posted January 15, 2020 Thanks Warren. Last night, added u-bolts to the rear suspension and trial fitted the driveshaft.
am73grand Posted January 15, 2020 Posted January 15, 2020 That's going to be one good looking truck! Nice work so far.
Warren D Posted January 15, 2020 Posted January 15, 2020 You could always put a small block between the rear axle and springs to lower the rear of the frame. Might look a bit odd though.
Warren D Posted January 15, 2020 Posted January 15, 2020 Also looks like you could remove some material from the bottom of the spring hangers where they contact the frame. Can't tell from the photo angle if the bottom bolts of the hangers are below the frame but looks like it. Looks to be plenty of meat on those castings.....
landman Posted January 15, 2020 Author Posted January 15, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, Warren D said: You could always put a small block between the rear axle and springs to lower the rear of the frame. Might look a bit odd though. I put the axle above the springs rather than below as it was before. That leveled it. Not sure how it would affect the load bearing in real life though. All the weight would be on the u-bolts. Edited January 15, 2020 by landman
landman Posted January 15, 2020 Author Posted January 15, 2020 Added u-bolts to thew front. Ended up having to remove the axle from the truck to be able to do it. This could have been done a lot more easily earlier. welcome to the golden age.?
landman Posted January 17, 2020 Author Posted January 17, 2020 (edited) Chassis is painted. Edited January 18, 2020 by landman
Hermann Kersten Posted January 19, 2020 Posted January 19, 2020 Hi Pat, Nice project, you always make beautiful elegant and interesting oldies, and this is also no exception? Great work as always. Hermann.
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