Airbrush and Alclad....

[slotbaker]

Hi,

I want to have a go at shooting Alclad, but don't have any experinece with airbrushes, so..

I thought I'd ask youse guys for suggestions on which airbrush to get.

Hopefully, I'll get one that can do a lot of other things, but I want to concentrate on getting the most basic/simple one to use and clean, that is good for Alclad.

I figure I can learn with this one, then graduate up to something more serious if I feel I am capable enough to do so.

Any suggestions?

:?

[MrObsessive]

Some of the other guys will have their favorites......but one I've been using since 1994 is the Badger Crescendo.

Yes, it's the very same airbrush I've had since '94 and besides replacing the needle bearing, it hasn't missed a beat!

It's easy to take apart to clean, and you can get different size nozzles and needles for it. The best thing though is the tip head is made flush so you don't get that buildup of paint in the tip.......causing spitting and causing you to curse! :shock:

I've sprayed Alclad many of times through it with no trouble at all...........although I recommend spraying Alclad through the finest tip that the Crescendo offers.

[Jairus]

And don't put on too much Alclad either! The base coat is what will make the chrome look like CHROME. Poor base coat = poor chrome. Good smooth black base coat and a just a thin fogged coat of Alclad looks the most realistic.

[Zoom Zoom]

I also use a Badger 175 Crescendo (medium tip) with good results. And as Jairus mentioned, the key to the best looking finish is the base coat. If it's not glass-smooth, the chrome won't look nearly as good. Apply the chrome coats lightly; make a light pass and watch the chrome "settle", do several (enough so the black is completely covered and the finish is still reflective) and a few minutes after they're applied you buff off the overspray with a soft cloth and it shines up nicely. Then don't touch the Alclad if at all possible! It's not very durable. Get some cotton gloves made for handling delicate parts, and always apply the chrome parts last.

It took me awhile to get comfortable w/Alclad (and Spaz Stix; basically the same stuff from another mfg.). I had to do some spoon tests and redo several bumpers before having decent success. I'd suggest testing it out before going straight to a project; as I had crappy results a few times from my inexperience.

Now if they'd just make this chrome stuff able to take a clearcoat...I've tried several low-solvent clears from Future to urethane and they all kill the sheen :cry:

[slotbaker]

Thanks guys.

One of the local guy here suggested a Pasche.

Looks like I'm off shopping on the weekend.

I've read a lot of the posts about applying Alclad, and checked out their website, so I've got the theory part covered. But as I've found out in life, theory is just that, and doing is believing.

Only one to learn, and that's to have a go.

Thanks again.

[simonr]

I use almost exclusively a Crescendo 175T too. Most of the work it's done using mostly the fine and medium tips, the large tip for bodies. For the Alclad base coat I've obtained the best results using the Alclad's black base paint(something that surprise me!) and the cheap small bottle testors gloss black. I've had heard that it's not the same result when you use acrylic or lacquers black base coats.

Simon

[slotbaker]

Thanks Simon.

Yep the Alclad site backs this up..

"High Shine Finishes-Polished Aluminium, Chrome for plastic and Stainless Steel require a dark glossy base,use Alclad Gloss Black Base"

The other, less reflective, finishes seem to be ok with base coats like the Tamiya gloss rattle cans.

Looks like I'm on the hunt for a Crescendo 175T me thinks :wink:

[Zoom Zoom]

Thanks Simon.

Yep the Alclad site backs this up..

"High Shine Finishes-Polished Aluminium, Chrome for plastic and Stainless Steel require a dark glossy base,use Alclad Gloss Black Base"

The other, less reflective, finishes seem to be ok with base coats like the Tamiya gloss rattle cans.

Looks like I'm on the hunt for a Crescendo 175T me thinks :wink:

The 175 is a good airbrush. I have three now; one for solid colors, one for metallics, one for clear. Bear Air has good prices on them.

[cruz]

That's what I have, a crescendo too. I shoot my alclad at 12 psi with the big tip. I don't worry much about tip size but about pressure and a very glossy wet coat for the black. I make sure that the paint is very warm before I shoot it and I always put at least 4 coats before I shoot the Alclad. I make sure that the paint is dry 24 hours before alclading, I think it works best but mainly because after 10 minutes of shooting the alclad I take a flannel cloth and kind of polish it lightly, I love the results. :wink:

[cruz]

http://public.fotki.com/mamaprez/model_clu...6/dscn0006.html Hey Slotbaker, this is why I love Alclad, when you get used to it the results are great! :wink:

[slotbaker]

All good info, thanks.

I hope I can get my work as good as that. :?

The thing that prompted me to get of my fat A, is a bit of luck coming into posession of 2 resin repro Monogram midgets, which are 1/24 slot car body kits. Local Aussie guy is making them in limited numbers.

They are so good, they need to be done right. (Or as right as I can do them)

I'll post some pics on the weekend, if anyone is interested.