32 5-window from Revell

[Husky1943]

Ciao everyone!  My next project will be the 1932 5-window coupe from Revell.  My only problem is that I can't build it straight stock.  I don't have the parts box sufficient to replace the engine and wheels.  However, I will build it as modestly as possible.  AND, I am taking baby-steps into detailing by opening the door on the driver side, which will mean that I will have to detail the door with at least a latch and post.  I told you, "baby steps."  

Check it out and any suggestions or comments are welcome.  Hopefully, I won't install anything upside down.  

 

[Paul Payne]

Go for it- open up the passenger door too! I’m guessing you want to build it as stock as possible- guess you won’t be using the louvered trunk lid!

Have fun and hack that plastic.

[Deuces ll]

That kit was modeled after the real car.. The Devil Deuce.... I'll dig up photos of the real one if you like and I'll post those on here.....?

[Husky1943]

Thanks Paul!  I was going to, but I figured that I would try one door and see how it works out.  Also, I got a little nervous about it because cutting that door out really weakened the entire port side of the vehicle, leaving a small strip of plastic at the bottom that ran from the front bonnet to the quarter panel.  I was worried that if I tried to open the other door, I would break one of the small bottom strips.  So.....baby steps.  And, yes, I really like to build stock.  I don't really like chrome or flash on vehicles, so stock is usually less flash.  No, the louvered trunk lid will not be featured.

Guido, I would appreciate that very much.  I was going to look for the door edges, cause  I have to start figuring out how I am going to do that.  Looking forward to seeing the photos, amico mio. 

[Deuces ll]

If you want more pictures, do a search on Fred Allen's Devil Deuce hot rod.... ??

Edited August 10, 2020 by Deuces ll

[Paul Payne]

See if small brass rod for the for the bottom door opening would mess up the fit. Maybe just a thin strip of plastic would work. Fiddle about and have fun!

[Husky1943]

Thanks for the photos, Guido! There is even one with the door open.  Oddly, it looks exactly like a door latch on a house door.  I would have never guessed that.  

Paul, I was actually thinking of just cutting a piece of stretched sprue the width of the hinges (the top one being smaller) and just gluing the door in place permanently.  I was trying to figure out how to make hinges, and actually trying to still figure it out.  

Thanks for the help gentlemen!  I appreciate yall.

[Husky1943]

Update:  I'm sort-of going with the little things.  I really didn't have to redo these springs, but I just wanted to practice at making them for when they will be visible on a model.

[Husky1943]

Got the underside frame going good.  Notice that you can't really even see the springs that I made, but oh well.  I really don't care much for the brake master cylinder and where it is mounted.  How in the heck a home mechanic could get to it must have been tricky!  I should have placed it up on the firewall where they usually go.  Maybe next time.

[Husky1943]

Of course, the first thing that I did was give all the parts a bath in soapy water.  I have learned that the release agent from the casting at the factory is very real and will repel the paint from adhering well.  I had primed everything, and painted as much as I could to give it time.  I prefer to let the paint dry (degas) over a period of at least two weeks, but preferably near a month.  I have been impatient before and tried to handle parts that have only dried for a couple of days, as sure as sunrise, I put massive and disfiguring finger prints in the finish!  This particular model has been drying for I think around three weeks by the time I started polishing them.

[Husky1943]

Got the engine installed.  It has plug wires, but plumbed no further.  Next time, I think that I am going to sketch out the engine hold, and see what and how that I can plumb it even more.  I also noticed that I should have fabricated some mounts for the alternator.  It is painfully obvious that it is suspended in the air.  Again, next time.  I really like the way that it came out.  I was originally going to paint the engine orange, but went with Ford Blue instead.  Glad I did.  I think it would have looked nice on a 1:1 car, but not on a model.  Further, I am also thinking about stringing brake lines on the next model.  I don't know if I want to go to that extreme though on the bottom of the car.

[doorsovdoon]

Very nice, I love that orange. You're going to town on the details!

[Husky1943]

Working on the tub.  Since I cut the door, I now have to work my way around the interior.  I am very fortunate that Revell makes such a quality model with such a great fit.  AMT kits are okay, but might not have been so forgiving about the fit.  Anyway, it is starting to come together.  WARNING:  I bought a really nice Rustoleum paint - camo tan rattle can.  Wonderful interior color.  Here is the problem:  I didn't spray a bit of the paint first, to expel the dusty paint out of the sprayer first OR spray something first to see how the finish was.  Anyway, I just started spraying, and boom! - junked up the interior with clumpy globs of paint, that I could have avoided by spraying first on something else.  Stupid?  yes.  Learned a lesson?  Oh yeah.  I could have cleaned it, but decided to just push through it.  

[Husky1943]

Gareth,  Thanks so much!  Hope you are doing well.  

[doorsovdoon]

Yeah, all good mate, same to you. Is the cracking in the paint on the seats and floor intentional? That would actually look perfect as aged leather on the seats!

[Husky1943]

What have I learned that I will keep with me forever?  Test-fit!  I mean, I test fit everything now (even the smallest parts).  This what I was doing.  I test fit, and then had to go back and scrap the paint for gluing points.  Tedious, but necessary.  Again, Revell is rockstar when it comes to fit.  I then painted in the canvas top and the step rails.  I had to handpaint the interior tan, so as not to mess up the paint.  Then I polished the entire body as much as possible.  Now that I am getting the polishing technique down, I'm not going back to any other way.  I might try and incorporate future into the overall finish.  Used Elmer's glue to install the windows.  I think it is perfect and hides really well.  

Oh, forgot to mention.  I went with the ceramic dipped headers on the engine.  I always wanted to install a set, but could never afford them.  Then, I got married, had children and grandchildren, and eventually that part of me went away.  Well....I finally got my ceramic headers!

Thanks for taking a look, and any comments or suggestions are welcome!  Stay safe and God watch over Texas and Louisiana with this storm.

[Husky1943]

Gareth, I appreciate the words, and no, it was not intentionally.  Instead of shooting out the initial crud of the brand-new rattle, I simply shot it directly on the tub and got all the junk with it.  Plus, I didn't prime the tub, so it just is what it is.  

[doorsovdoon]

Well, it works, Lol! I sometimes get paint reactions and 'textures' in my paint, but never on the parts it would look good on! haha

[espo]

  On 8/27/2020 at 3:57 PM, Husky1943 said:

Of course, the first thing that I did was give all the parts a bath in soapy water.  I have learned that the release agent from the casting at the factory is very real and will repel the paint from adhering well.  I had primed everything, and painted as much as I could to give it time.  I prefer to let the paint dry (degas) over a period of at least two weeks, but preferably near a month.  I have been impatient before and tried to handle parts that have only dried for a couple of days, as sure as sunrise, I put massive and disfiguring finger prints in the finish!  This particular model has been drying for I think around three weeks by the time I started polishing them.

Expand  

Great looking shade of Orange. You mention the master brake location. That is pretty much the stock location but the OEM wouldn't have had a booster of course.  Most early cars from the early '50's back had the brake and the clutch pedals going thru either the lower part of the firewall or toe panel or the floor. There was usually a trap door of some sort on the floor to accesses the master brake cylinder to add or check the fluid.   In fact the early '50's Oldsmobile's  Hydromatic had a cover on the passenger side of the transmission  tunnel to check the fluid level or add fluid.  

[Paul Payne]

I think the interior texture looks great- like a wool or mohair interior. If it happens again on a future project, try a little dry brushing for a tweed effect.

[Husky1943]

Thanks Paul.  I need help turning a "bone-up" into a bonus!

[Husky1943]

And thanks for the info on the brakes, David!  that would make sense that there would be access of some kind. 

[Husky1943]

Last step in the construction - filling in the gaps in the interior and getting that door hung!  I filled the gaps in with metal tape, and then pressed down with a sharpened bamboo skewer to get it fits into the gaps.  Did the same to the door.  Then I painted the interior color onto the tape showing wear the carpet butts up against the threshold metal.  You can see the door before and after it gets polished and waxed.  I know that the orange peel is pretty bad, but that's because I really lay on the paint so that when I do sand it down, I will have plenty to work with.  The door is polished, waxed, painted and ready to hang.  I stretched several sprue so that I could cut a section to replicate the hinge.  Then, I positioned the door, and glued the larger, bottom hinge to the door, and then using metal tape and another smaller cut sprue, fabricated the upper hinge and installed it on the door.  If you like, I invite you to go look at the finished model in the pau section!  Thanks so much and on to another one.

[doorsovdoon]

Looking good. Nice change seeing steels with hubcaps on a rod, they look really good too!

[Husky1943]

Thanks Gareth!  I really like the vanity rings on the wheels, as well.  did you notice how I had to cheat to get the front window into the car?  The window that I had, along with the chrome trim, were both WAY too small to actually fit.  So, I just put the window in with metal tape (my old go-to) and did the best I could to hide it!  I always appreciate the reinforcing words, Sir.