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Posted

Next up is this  one that I was gifted last Christmas. I thought the car looked chubby, but compared to the Carrera GT, it's actually about the same size. Not sure how the electric motor in the front is going to be seen with the body on, but I will have to see what I can do.

Right now, color: some bright blue, interior undecided.

 

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Posted

As I assemble the engine and that bazaar intake/exhaust, it's clear I have two choices. 1, don't do any detail and cover most of the engine and motor up and never see it, or 2, build it body and chassis separate and be able to lift off the body for display. Think I'll go #2 (no pun intended) and build up the engine detail some. Of course, AFTER I Google how the whole thing works so I understand it.

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Posted

After some construction and review, this is what I see. The engine is covered by the framework, the air inlets have no representation of any filters and they also go straight into the muffler!  As you see in the pics, I have the engine in, as well as the front electric motor.  Any work to make the chassis separate from the body (ala NASCAR kit or Pagani Huayra) isn't going to yield good results. Even though the engine is cool, it's barely visible any way you try to display it, aside from removed from the car. Therefore, I'm going curbside.

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Posted

On to the tires!  My technique is to airbrush them flat black, let it sit in the food dehydrator for a while, then wipe with a cloth dabbed in thinner.  first two pics show after airbrushing, last two are finished result.

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Posted

Carl...that is a wonderful kit and you are off to a good start. I am sure it will be a great model.  I used Tamiya X-18 semi blk on my wheels and wiped it off shortly after spraying and  before it had a chance to cure. Tamiya thinner doesn't hurt the chrome as much as other thinners and I got the same results.  Just a different technique.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

So, finally got some time to work on the 918. Saw someone's Supra on the forum and decided that was the color. Alclad recommends silver base, the the Supra was done dark, and I much prefer this effect.  Going in the dryer and Alclad clear tomorrow.

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Posted

Carl,   that was my post you saw that colour on. I used Tamiya TS55 dark blue as the base. Yours looks like much brighter over a silver base.  Alcad  Holomatic Spectral chrome is really an amazing finish.  I did not try Alclad clear over mine so I will be interested to see how that works. Several of the clears I used ate into the finish so I wound up using something I have been for years that I know wouldn't affect the Alclad metallic.  Good luck with that , I hope it turns out amazing. 

Posted
26 minutes ago, Rich Chernosky said:

Carl,   that was my post you saw that colour on. I used Tamiya TS55 dark blue as the base. Yours looks like much brighter over a silver base.  Alcad  Holomatic Spectral chrome is really an amazing finish.  I did not try Alclad clear over mine so I will be interested to see how that works. Several of the clears I used ate into the finish so I wound up using something I have been for years that I know wouldn't affect the Alclad metallic.  Good luck with that , I hope it turns out amazing. 

Rich,

I'm going to shoot it on the rear wing, see how it does there first. Will show you the results. LOVE this effect!

Posted

I did test shot and found that the prism did run ever so slightly. Next time, lighter clearcoat.  Another thing that stood out is that after clearcoat the rainbow colors don't look quite as vibrant. I haven't polished it out yet. but I do think this stuff is delicate to work with.

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Posted

Carl.....I had the same problem with Tamiya X-13. I decant and airbrush. Knowing the delicate nature of this finish I went several mist coats at high pressure but to no avail. It still turned grey.  2K clear did the same thing only worse. Then I switched to Vallejo Polyurethane clear. Its a water base acrylic. That did not distort the base coat and looked great wet. After a month and a half I started to polish it out and noticed it has started to separate from the metallic. I was able to pull the clear finish off in large sheets. Back to the stripper a third time. I finally fell back on something I had success with over Alclad in the past. This was a latex clear made by Krylon. It was made under their Greater Living line which is now discontinued. I have some old stock. I believe it is now made under their Lo Odor clear line. It still has to be decanted and airbrushed. Tamiya thinner thins it and it has to be applied in several thin layers but it builds up nicely. Looks a little milky in the wet coat stage but it dries crystal clear.  Gotta let it sit a month or so for it to cure though. Longer if its real humid where you are. When cured its rock hard.  This has been my experience and I hope it helps you out. 

Posted

Well that didn't go well! Taking a break from tax forms and Real Estate stuff to work on the 918. I GENTLY polished the rear fender as shown and it pulled the little prismy things right off. So I think what happens is when you hit it with clearcoat, the prisms mix into the new coat. I'm not going to polish this one like I usually do. I might touch up this spot (pic actually looks better than reality). If it doesn't work well, gonna just head to assembly.   I don't build for contests anymore, so I'm OK with it not being perfect.

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  • 1 month later...

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