2k and paint repair? Can it be fixed?

[AlbertD]

This was primed with Gravity primer, painted with Gravity Anthracite Black and 2K'd with MRP gloss 2k. I was sanding out a couple of dust specks and got carried away. Can I mask the decals off and spray some new paint then blend in some new 2k? Will it stick to the old stuff? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 

[DiscoRover007]

If you're only looking to touch it up. I wonder if you can use a lacquer clear? Or will that not blend in to the 2k clear?

[AlbertD]

1 hour ago, DiscoRover007 said:

If you're only looking to touch it up. I wonder if you can use a lacquer clear? Or will that not blend in to the 2k clear?

I was thinking about trying that. I don't see why it wouldn't work. It's under the rear wing too so that should help hide it. I'll try it and post back.

[MrMiles]

I recently messed up something with a different brand of paint. Instead of taping it off, i used a piece of cardboard to block what i didn't want fresh paint to hit. The i sprayed the section like normal, and gave it another shot of clear after on the whole side.

Again, this was a different brand of paint. I didn't want to use tape on the chance of a tape line after

[AlbertD]

2 hours ago, MrMiles said:

I recently messed up something with a different brand of paint. Instead of taping it off, i used a piece of cardboard to block what i didn't want fresh paint to hit. The i sprayed the section like normal, and gave it another shot of clear after on the whole side.

Again, this was a different brand of paint. I didn't want to use tape on the chance of a tape line after

Thanks for pointing that out. It would have left a nice paint ridge. I’ll get the paint on today and decide what I want to try for a clear coat. I do think a regular lacquer would be best. The one big benefit of lacquer is it’s pretty easy to blend and repair. I don’t think the 2k is as forgiving.

[BubbaBrown]

Really taking a risk with lacquer over enamel !

 

[AlbertD]

Oops. Sorry for the double post.

Edited July 7, 2021 by AlbertD

[AlbertD]

1 hour ago, BubbaBrown said:

Really taking a risk with lacquer over enamel !

 

No enamel used. The Gravity paint is lacquer and I thought 2k was a polymer or similar. I already put some new black Gravity down with no issues. Will try the clear tomorrow.

[AlbertD]

Not perfect but it's fixed. I sprayed the whole panel with the original black then hit it with some clear gloss lacquer (MRP). I may just leave it as is and not polish it.

[Bainford]

Good save. Nice looking model. Certainly worth the effort to get it right. 

[AlbertD]

1 hour ago, Bainford said:

Good save. Nice looking model. Certainly worth the effort to get it right. 

Thanks Trevor. It was definitely worth it. Now I need to work on improving my sanding and polishing. It's better every model for sure.

[CabDriver]

I agree, that chassis looks great!

How were you sanding it, out of interest?  I’ve never messed with 2K clear, but I understood it was super tough and hard to sand…did you have a particularly coarse grit that you were using or something to level it out?

[AlbertD]

32 minutes ago, CabDriver said:

I agree, that chassis looks great!

How were you sanding it, out of interest?  I’ve never messed with 2K clear, but I understood it was super tough and hard to sand…did you have a particularly coarse grit that you were using or something to level it out?

Thanks Jim.

I had a couple of specks that needed to be sanded out. The finish was great otherwise. I started with wet 4000 grit Tamiya sanding pad then 8000 and then to Tamiya polish. I burned through on the 4000. I think it was a combination of things that went wrong. My 2k was probably too thin, I didn't pay enough attention to what I was doing and I got too close to the sharp edge. My next build will be a simple inexpensive kit with no decals to try to get the technique down. With no decals I can strip itmif needed. I also picked up a set of Micro Mesh sanding pads to try. 

[MrMiles]

Looks great. I will be honest, depending on how and where the dust spec is, i will try to sand it out at the end, and sometimes if its in a place not easily seen, i will leave it as im worried about making it worse, which is usually what happens. 

However since i started painting in the Tupperware box with the lid, the dust and cat hair is quite rare now. 

 

[CabDriver]

13 hours ago, AlbertD said:

Thanks Jim.

I had a couple of specks that needed to be sanded out. The finish was great otherwise. I started with wet 4000 grit Tamiya sanding pad then 8000 and then to Tamiya polish. I burned through on the 4000. I think it was a combination of things that went wrong. My 2k was probably too thin, I didn't pay enough attention to what I was doing and I got too close to the sharp edge. My next build will be a simple inexpensive kit with no decals to try to get the technique down. With no decals I can strip itmif needed. I also picked up a set of Micro Mesh sanding pads to try. 

Sounds like you have a good idea of what NOT to do next time - all part of the process!

I do like those Micro mesh pads - the 'cushioniness' of them makes it easy to regulate the pressure you're applying to the surface.  The cloths are better for the hard-to-get-to spots though...

Edited July 8, 2021 by CabDriver