A custom cookie cutter kit to trim decals? Has anyone tried such?

[swede70]

Greetings,

I'm wrapping up a custom decal order for a 1:18th diecast topic consisting of '70 1/2 Firebird Trans Am over-the-top stripes in addition to other graphics that were part of the livery run in the SCCA Trans-Am Series.  In particular, I'll need to cut out material from inside the stripework on the hood to allow for the shaker hood scoop to clear things, and given it wasn't an option to order decal work commissioned in a pre-trimmed or outlined fashion anyhow, I was thinking what could be done to cut the material needed to be removed without stressing the decal art/paper more than was strictly necessary?  Maybe too the fact that things are a bit larger in 1:18th makes such an approach sensible, while if the cut could be consistent across two builds, this too would be a plus...

https://cookiecutter.com/make-your-own-cookie-cutters.htm

Seen above is just a test fitting with color photocopies cut out and craft glued in-place...

I suppose I could apply the decal art suggested above and trim such for use of a deft hand and light touch - but I just might not be that good.  Anyhow, tossing the idea out there, inviting responses for better or for worse.  Thanks...

Mike K./Swede70

Edited December 18, 2021 by swede70

[stitchdup]

I think you'd be just as good using a metal ruler and no11 blade. The cookie cutter just seems like overkill unless you bake too, and your limited to size and shape but if your doing multiple of the same build i guess it would be handy

[swede70]

The cut would be made inside the hood stripe, hence the curves on all four corners plus the front 'vee' would have to be taken into consideration.  Dragging a metal ruler atop the art likely wouldn't do the stripes much good, thus the search for some other means to go about things.  Thanks...

Mike K./Swede70

[peteski]

I print my own decals on an Alps printer and usually trim the clear film manually. I use a knife I made from single-edge razor (because it is thinner than typical hobby blades, and the thinner the better for not disturbing the clear film while cutting).

I also acquired an older plotter/cutter (Graphtec CRAFT Robo CC100-20). One of the software modules included with it is a plug-in for Corel Draw (I use Corel Draw for decal artwork design).  The plugin draws 2 cross hair images on the decal art work on diagonal corners. Then (on a separate layer in my artwork) I draw the cut outlines matching the decal images.  I then print the decal on Alps, then feed it into the cutter.  I then send the cut outlines artwork to the cutter. It automatically scans for the cross-hairs in the printout using them as alignment points, then cuts or scores the paper (I can adjust the cut pressure).  Thanks to the cross-hairs the printed images and the cuts are accurately aligned.  I have not done this too many times since most of my decals are very small images not worth wasting full sheets of paper, but when I need to accurately cut complex-shaped images out, this method seems much less of a hassle than making metal cookie cutter.

[swede70]

Thanks for the kind and very detailed input Peteski.  

Indeed - for doing things in 1:18th, I find I'm pressured to do things in-house consistent with vertically integrating matters so that all aspects of fabrication can be controlled.  At present I'm not well-versed in graphics software such as Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw, InkWorks, etc., although making the investment in both time and personal skills development in addition to seeking hardware to achieve the results desired points the way forward.  Your technical knowledge and openness with regards to the specific approach plus identification of the devices employed affords me much to think about, hence know that I appreciate the time taken here.  Thanks again...

Mike K./Swede70

[peteski]

You're very welcome Mike!

In my experience, to produce quality decals it is essential to use good vector-based graphic software.  I have been using Corel Draw since early '90s (for various hobby related designs).  If you want to dabble in vector-based programs, Inkscape is a freebie. But in my situation there was no plug-in available for my CraftROBO cutter to allow precision cutting around the decal images.

Also, for what we use the graphic software (all fairly basic stuff), there is no need to get the latest-and-greatest (read expensive) version of the software, Older versions have more than ample capabilities.  For example I use Corel version 10 and 12 (the latest is I believe 18 or 19).  I bought mine 2nd hand, for very affordable prices.  Mine came with original install CDs and license/activation code.  If you look on eBay you should be able to find older (less expensive) versions of graphic software.  Corel Suite of bundled products also includes Photo Paint, a pretty powerful bitmap editing program, which I also use..

One thing to keep in mind is that you might have a difficult time getting the older graphic software to run under current version of MS WIndows.   Well, same goes for my Alps printer and its old printer drivers. I run Corel 10 and Alps on Windows 98SE and Corel 12 on Win XP. Those machines are on my local home network -- I do not go out onto the Internet on them.  I did  install Corel 12 on a Windows 7 laptop and it worked, Not sure about Windows 8, 10, or 11.

I should also mention that there are several other craft hobby cutters currently available (often used for scrapbooking), and they all come with their own software bundle which allows you to design artwork and have it cut out accurately.  My CraftROBO also did, but that meant I would have to learn how to use its graphics software.  Plus the software had only very basic capabilities (and I already knew how to use Corel).  Luckily it also came with that Corel plug-in. That was a life saver for me.

Edited December 29, 2021 by peteski