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Posted
Looking good, Scott!!

Too bad that you can't make it up for the NNL West...

Any chance we'll see you at any of the GoodGuys events in Pleasanton? They have pretty big model contests with the car shows 4 times a year.

Later,

Hey Paul,

I've been to those Pleasaton shows MANY years ago. I use to go with Jerry Amaral - if you know who that is. Lots of great 1 to 1 cars at those.

Unfortunately, with the way things are going this year, my traveling will be local - except for the trip to Salt Lake. Hopefully, we will catch up at a least one of the shows.

I'll be at the Citrus Nats tomorrow.

Have fun at the NNL. I am bummed, but try to tell your folks that you are going to miss their 50th anniversary for a model show. I was afraid to even hint at it.

Scott

Posted
...I've been to those Pleasaton shows MANY years ago. I use to go with Jerry Amaral - if you know who that is...

Unfortunately, with the way things are going this year, my traveling will be local - except for the trip to Salt Lake...

Have fun at the NNL. I am bummed, but try to tell your folks that you are going to miss their 50th anniversary for a model show. I was afraid to even hint at it...

Scott

Yes, I know who Jerry Amaral is. He also builds some really nice models.

I won't be going to Salt Lake, but my friend Jerry Cardinal will be ther with his newly finished El Matador. My other friends; Rex Bardon, Stan Pinnick and a few others from the NNL West crowd will also be there.

Yeah, you can't miss a 50th anniversary...not even for a really big model show.

Catch you later,

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Arrrg :D I made this mess when I wanted to make a hoop for the back of the seat. I could not get it shaped right using a candle, so I bent it up cold and glued it in place. It started springing back and spread the chassis. Did I stop there... Nooooooooo :D I tried to put the piece over a candle to heat it and get the sping out. Results? It melted the top rails on the back half of the chassis. :D Then I tried to force it in place by gluing the aluminum cage in place. It broke the cage. I ended up with this peice of poo. <_<

chassiscrap-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

Take a break and make a seat back. Pretty easy to thermaform over the old seat. Ready to trim down. It needs to flex to slide into the tight confines of the cage.

newseat2-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

Three night later the corrected chassis is ready to prime. The aluminum seat hoop holds its shape. The seak back is in place. The bottom will be added in separately. Notice all the mounting points? I tried to plan an attachment point for every element.

chassisreadytoprime-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

Scott

Edited by Scott Colmer
Posted

Yeah...sometimes it's best to put the whole thing down and take a break before you make a real mess out of the thing...and sometimes it's too late by the time you realize that you should have stopped earlier... :D

Keep up the GREAT work!! You tackle this beast and have an awesome model to show for all of your energy!! :D

Later,

Posted

Scott,

This a very cool project you have here. I have really enjoyed watching it progress and am looking forward to seeing it completed.

For your next project at this level may I suggest brass! Your roll cage troubles wouldn't have occurred if you had used brass. It doesn't spring back, it takes a mighty force to break anything, and as soon as the solder cools you are good - no glue issues. With a clean tip, some flux and some clay to use a s a heatsink and flexible jig it is EASIER than using plastic. Yes, I said easier.

Anyway, keep up the great work. I hope you do well at GSL with it.

Posted

Glad to see more of this. The chassis work, despite your travails, is like all the rest of what you've shown us: superb. I love the thoroughly engineered look and all the mounting tabs. It's the real deal. :lol:

Posted

Love your work, Scott. Gonna be a shame when this is done coz we won't get to see as much as we are now, so take yer time dude! Too bad about the little mishap with the candle---dat can be very touchy working with the flame :lol:

Posted

Thanks all.

Andy, you are right. It would have been better in metal. I'll have to get over my brassophobia.

The chassis ills are also a sign of letting a build evolve rather than planing it all out in advance. This was orginally going to be a quick, throw together. It spun out of control. The good news is I am learning lots of new techniques. The bad news is the rework on various items - especially correcting the original sourced kit parts rather than having made them from the start.

Oh well, all part of the fun. :P

Scott

Posted

Put "Land Speed" or "Vette" in a title and you can be sure to catch my attention. Awesome project you got going on here. I followed your Fotki WIP from start to finish; very impressive. I like the way you write about working through various problems and challenges along the way.

Some great tips too. Now I"m going to have to find something that needs knurling! :P

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Oh my god how did I get paint on my model! Maybe it's about time. Here is the 50 part (more or less) pedal assembly. It took a bit of experimenting to get the gold anodize color right. Two different metalizers and some yellow paint in a custom mix covered by clear. It all fits in the chassis. I'll have to do a little touch up on the pedal metailzer before final assembly. :)

pedals2-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

pedals5-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

Now it time to make bucks for the cage plates. One down, 5 to go.

buck1-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

Till later.

Scott

Posted

Scott,

You probably shouldn't turn the master cylinder assembly on its side...I think I saw a little fluid starting to leak out of one of the top seals!! :)

pedals5-vi.jpg

Too cool!!

Keep up the GREAT work and thanks for sharing,

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Holy Cow! This awesome. I love looking at builds that I would never in five lifetimes be able to do! Especially on a subject matter I'm interested in! Thanks for posting!

Posted

I am taking advantage of a work furlough to make as much progress as possible.

Here are the basic front suspension elements readly for final finishing. This is pretty much all scratchbuilt.

frontsuspension1-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

Instaling the scractchbuilt brakeline fittings. These are a pain to make. I thought my eyes would pop.

frontsuspension2-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

Almost there. We have the spindles and rotors. Plumbed fron axle with carbon fiber leaf spring. Hydraulic laver action shocks. And the calipers. Looks like a couple of the allen head mounting bolts came off the calipers. Easy fix.

frontsuspension3-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

The frame is next.

Till next time.

Scott

Posted

Wow! You are really turning up the screws on this one. The detail on your brake and front end work is beautiful. I just love that color on the springs under the pedal assembly. The knurling is a nice touch too.

Posted (edited)

Very nice work.

If I didn't know any better with all the Great Detail work,

I'd think it was 1/4 scale.

Must be one Huge Dime.

Edited by Zukiholic
Posted

I looked at the Fotki of this build... all 168 pictures. This is amazing work. I learned an incredible amount by looking at your work. Thanks for sharing it and I look forward to seeing more.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well, the frame is red - really red. All the tabs are shaped to the right size and the joints are tight. This took and incredible amount sanding and filing. If I were to do this again.... :(

Chassis5-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

These aftermarket carbon fiber decals were a bear to work with. Some parts of the sheet were OK, and some just flaked away. Once I finally go two panels done, I foolishly sprayed one with clear lacquer. I did test a scrap first, which turned to the same black mush right after the one in the photo did. :)

Chassis4-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

So it was on to gauge backs. Since the back of the dash is open, might as well detail the back side. The is the can for the tach. I still need a source for the custom faces and some other small decals.

Gauge2-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

One thing is for sure....This will not be done for GSL this year. But it will get done.

Scott

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well I got my decals woes sorted out with some good advice from HiZoot and the board. Had to let the good part of the sheet dry longer and then using the urethene to clear did the trick. Seems heat from a light bulb also helped. Once the dash was in carbon fiber I could put in the gauge cans and switch backs. The hold downs are photo etch scraps. I think I got all the parts in there that should be. And yes, it will be visible. I had to look up a wiring diagram in the internet, so that will be the next step.

Scott

Dashback1-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

Posted

That is ridiculous!

I thought my roadster gauges were cool; your's are outrageously cool.

cooler than cool

coolier than cool

South Pole Cool

Deep Space Cool

Posted

Still working through the details. Thanks for all the encouragement. To those who went through the whole album...DANG!

Floorboard. The first set of fasteners were too big, so pryed them up and replaced them with the smallest I have. I love this stuff...no really, I do....really.

floor1-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

Adding counter sunk screws to the interior panels. This way yellow plastic dude won't snag his pants, since these ride inside the cage. Simple process - drill, color hole black, dab of clear, place screw head.

panelscrews-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

Screw and bolts also have shanks. All those tabs have shanks made from bits of fine wire rolled under a file to make sort of threads.

shanks-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

Tomorrow, I'm packing up for Salt Lake. Back later.

Scott

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