Need some help with using Future as a clear coat....

[Len Geisler]

I am in need of some tips for using Fututre as a clear top coat. I took a shot on it and was not happy at all :cry: However, I can see that if applied correctly it would make for a killer finish. There were a couple spots on the model where it looked like glass, nice smooth reflective finish. But for the most part it wasn't very shiney.

I hope somebody has some expirence with this stuff, as I like it for two reasons, it is reasonably cost effective and doesn't have the negative effect of a urethane clear coat.(not that there is anything wrong with them, I just chose not to use them). Info like how much pressure to use, do you thin it? etc....

So if you would share some tips, I'd be greatful....

Thanks

[Mr. Can Am Garage]

I brush it on with a paint brush.

I sure wouldn't thin it even if I was airbrushing it as it's pretty darn thin.

[Zoom Zoom]

I've only clearcoated two models with it, so I'm far from an expert. I got decent results, and have seen excellent results from others.

The Future didn't need any thinning. It worked better when I set it out in the airbrush jar in the dehydrator for an hour or so to let it get a bit thicker. It sprays thin/watery, so you either spray it very lightly in mist coats or risk getting runs with wetter coats. With patience you'll get a nice gloss. Runs are easy to wick out w/a corner of paper towel, though they also nearly disappear when the Future dries.

The Future didn't like wetsanding. It held up fine to dry sanding (with Micromesh). It polishes out w/the regular modeler's compounds. And if you aren't happy with the finish, a bit of ammonia and it's stripped.

If you're looking for an alternative to lacquer/enamel clearcoats (safer to breathe, safer on decals) a couple other solutions are Gunze/Mr. Hobby B-501 clear gloss (spraycan)-awesome clearcoat in a can, dries like teflon and buffs out nicely. Tamiya clear acrylic (jar) is also good, but dries very slowly, you'll want to use a dehydrator if you need to work on the parts w/in a month of application.

[Dave Van]

Using it since 1983...still happy with it.

Get a wide 3/4 to 1 inch soft high quality sable brush. I paint the end of the handle so I know it's my Future brush. DO NOT USE IT FOR ANYTHING ELSE.

Start on the high point of the model, I start on the roof. Keep a wet edge and move quick but not fast. Roof, trunk, hood and sides. If you put on too much you can wick away the extra with a cloth or paper towel. If you really mess it up somehow you can wash it off with hot water if its not dry.

Allow to dry 24 hrs before you handle it. It it gets dusty use a clean soft cloth damp with water to clean.

If it really gets dull a thin coat of Future will restore.

This 'Cop Out' is Tamiya black, no primer, with Future floor shine after decals. Check the roof reflection....good stuff!

[BigPoppa]

I'm deathly afraid of clearing because after all the work I may put in on a paintjob, if the clear isn't just right, it blows everything up. I use HOK paints supplied by Black Gold. If I'm reading right, this Gunze/Mr. Hobby B-501 clear gloss will be good for anything? I'd rather just spray bomb clear and buff it out instead of taking the time to set up the airbrush. What's the drying time like?

[Zoom Zoom]

  BigPoppa said:

I'm deathly afraid of clearing because after all the work I may put in on a paintjob, if the clear isn't just right, it blows everything up. I use HOK paints supplied by Black Gold. If I'm reading right, this Gunze/Mr. Hobby B-501 clear gloss will be good for anything? I'd rather just spray bomb clear and buff it out instead of taking the time to set up the airbrush. What's the drying time like?

The B-501 clear should be safe over anything, as long as everything below it has completely dried. It dries very fast. Any time I'm leery of using lacquer clear, this is what I use. I might use it all the time if it were easier to find and cheaper. I generally restock when I make orders with Hobbylink Japan.

[Don Sikora II]

  Zoom Zoom said:

The B-501 clear should be safe over anything, as long as everything below it has completely dried. It dries very fast. Any time I'm leery of using lacquer clear, this is what I use. I might use it all the time if it were easier to find and cheaper. I generally restock when I make orders with Hobbylink Japan.

Bob, what are the shipping options when ordering spray paints from HLJ? Probably close to 15 years ago now you could buy the Gunze spray clears in some local hobby shops around Chicago, it was good stuff especially in the pre-Tamiya spray days. I used to use the satin (or was it semi-gloss??) clear quite a bit....used up what I had probably 5 years ago, think I might still have a can of gloss that's maybe 1/4 full.

[Zoom Zoom]

  Don Sikora II said:

Bob, what are the shipping options when ordering spray paints from HLJ? Probably close to 15 years ago now you could buy the Gunze spray clears in some local hobby shops around Chicago, it was good stuff especially in the pre-Tamiya spray days. I used to use the satin (or was it semi-gloss??) clear quite a bit....used up what I had probably 5 years ago, think I might still have a can of gloss that's maybe 1/4 full.

Just order them and they ship; I've never had any problem getting spray paints from them w/other orders. Even had preordered a can of Tamiya transparent smoke when it was announced and forgot about it, they shipped one single can of paint :roll: I don't even want to know what that can of paint eventually cost.

[Len Geisler]

Guys....

Thanks for all the info on the future....

Looks like a sable brush is in my future....Pun intended....LOL 8)

[Don Sikora II]

  Zoom Zoom said:

Just order them and they ship; I've never had any problem getting spray paints from them w/other orders. Even had preordered a can of Tamiya transparent smoke when it was announced and forgot about it, they shipped one single can of paint :roll: I don't even want to know what that can of paint eventually cost.

OK, thanks. I just always assumed they'd have to ship paint on the slow boat, so I've never tried to order any from them.

[Zoom Zoom]

  Don Sikora II said:

OK, thanks. I just always assumed they'd have to ship paint on the slow boat, so I've never tried to order any from them.

I get HLJ orders shipped via SAL; once shipped from Japan it takes about 12-16 days to hit my doorstep (sometimes it takes them up to a week to get the order out the door :roll: ). EMS is much faster, but much more expensive. One of my friends just ordered a number of the B-501/502/503 cans from them.

Gotta love the global economy 8)

[kod38]

Check this article out guys.

It may help.

Doug R

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html