Has anyone channeled a Revel '37 Ford pickup?

[BadJuju]

I think mimicking a fender-less Deuce is what I'm after: upswept lower body edge merging with the frame line, and front wheels ahead of the radiator.  That's how yours looks, but with a stretched, Deusy-like mean cool to boot!

Now, with fenders on, I think I'd just leave the body alone, use the kit lowered suspension, and update with wider wheels & tires, as per these 1:1 examples.

[BadJuju]

UPDATE:

Thanks a million  to Plowboy for the transmission tip!  I cut off the auto unit from the Roush V8 & mated a Moebius F100 FE manual.  Then I trimmed down parts of the trans rear end to fit inside the x-brace.  I'll still need to trim the driveshaft, but the FEAD front aligns with where the flathead distributor front was.  Now the frame length and radiator fore-aft position are unchanged, and I can use the '37 hood!

The FE trans is taller than the flathead's, so tunnel & floor work will be needed.

I carefully cut out the suspension cross member, to relocate it forward.  I also shaved off the flathead mounts, so the cross member fits flush below the radiator support, which was trimmed to be a rear-facing U shape, clearing the new FEAD.  Top & bottom photos of the result, without the power train, are shown below.

The front axle moves 7mm forward (vs the previous approach's 8mm), achieving the Deuce-like proportions I sought.

The modern V8 oil pan is deeper than the flathead's, so I'll need to have a look at ground clearance in setting the motor height & fabbing the new mounts.  Clearance for over-frame headers also plays into it. This work will be done next.  Then I'll scope how much the tunnel & floor must change.

Edited June 16, 2022 by BadJuju

[BadJuju]

UPDATE:

I scratched the motor mounts from styrene u-channel, reinforcing the joints with styrene strip, all cemented with Bondine:

Then I did some clean-up on the frame rails.  There are one or two sink holes that need to be filled yet.  The motor mounts have it located where I can fit some over-frame headers. I'm in the process of filling the header locator holes, since the ones I'm using would leave those exposed.  If I leave things as they are, the motor will sit a bit nose-high, which minimizes how big the scratch floor tunnel will be.  What do folks think: should I raise the transmission so the motor is level, or leave it as it is?  Please share your thoughts.

I also cut away part of the lower floor to clear the trans.  I did extra here in case I decide to lift the trans to level out the motor.  I see I also need to reshape the port side taper for symmetry.

Next, I sectioned the interior 3+ mm.  This is my first time ever doing such, and there is a seam you can see inside that I might have a devil of a time trying to remove.  I won't let perfection be the enemy of good enough.  It will depend on how visible the seam is once I test fit everything after the roof chop.  I reinforced the joints with styrene strip, all joints being first cemented with Bondine, then adding a layer of super glue for more strength, since I still have the tunnel surgery to do.

Then I removed the 3+ mm from the cab rear.  Test fitting shows the cab is a little lower than I wanted (the photo angle here is off; see how the body is actually below the frame rail on the far side). Oh well!

Another note regarding the front axle location: if I flip the axle/spring assembly around, with the axle forward, I get 8mm more wheelbase, for a total lengthening of 15mm.  I'll mock that up and decide which I like better.  I'll be showing the mock-up in the next update.  In either case, I need new radius rods, which will have rear mounts on the outside of the frame rails, rather than at the transmission cross member.  There's no need to Z the frame for lowering, since the reissue hit has a marvelous optional drop axle.

Thanks for looking and for your thoughts, especially regarding the motor angle (nose-high or level).  Stay tuned...

 

Edited June 28, 2022 by BadJuju

[TarheelRick]

You really have a working plan in place for this one.  As for the engine, I prefer them setting level, but it looks like that may make some oil-pan clearance issues.  Either way you decide, it is your build.  Just looking forward to more updates.

[BadJuju]

UPDATE:

By using square tube stock I have on hand, I raised the transmission to where the motor is nearly level and declared "close enough".

It didn't result in much more surgery so far: scratched a driveshaft tunnel extension (1st photo below - split on-hand tube stock and super-glued), and widened the cutout in the toe board (2nd below, parts jostled a bit out of position laterally).  The rest of the tunnel cut was needed anyway.  I'll have to relocate the brake & clutch pedals, and dive into the parts box for a new accelerator (original molded-in detail went with the wider toe board cut).  Next step is to scratch the tunnel from styrene sheet.  I'll then mock the axle & driveshaft to be sure it all aligns, and mod as needed.  I'll perhaps have to notch the bottom of the cab back, as well.

Finally below is the WIP of the modified firewall.  I used a razor saw, X-acto knife, and file to cut away the existing part, and added a sheet styrene flat panel.  Not shown is I reinforced the flat panel with a styrene strip across the top, cemented the panel with Bondine on 3 sides, and then added super glue over all that for strength.  I'll need to cut away some in the lower center, to clear the bell housing, then putty and sand the joints.

I'm thinking what to do with the battery, since I want to keep the firewall clean.  I don't think I can "fake it" by saying it's unseen under the seat (wouldn't fit).  I doubt I can fit it under the pickup box, since I'm not raising its floor.  One idea is to add a utility box inside the front of the pickup box, with a partition for the battery and some tools, and an opening lid ... more work than I want to do.

More to come ...

Edited June 29, 2022 by BadJuju

[Chevy II]

Interested in seeing this come together. I really like PlowBoys and the red 37 picture with the hood sides. Are you planning to section any of the box or leave it stock?

I'm also interested to see how you do the top chop.

[BadJuju]

I've been chipping away at this, along with 3-4 other projects.  The customized firewall is nearly done.  I've made mistakes there that have created extra work.  I've sectioned the interior & scratched most of the trans tunnel.  The firewall must be completed so I can size the front of the trans tunnel to fit.  Once all that is done, I'll work on chopping the top.  I've never done one before.  I have a Flintstone chopped cab as a backup.  It needs a LOT of cleanup if I need to use it.  If so, I'll cut it at the cab molding lines and mate it to the lower with the customized firewall.  I tried to keep the firewall separate, which was leading to the errors I mentioned, so I ended up gluing it to the cab.

I've lowered the bed front wall a bit & am scratching the rear roll pan & bed side skirts, but not channeling the bed.  I'd like the bed top rail to align with the cab side molding.

When I finish the firewall I'll post an update.  Thanks for your interest!

[BadJuju]

UPDATE:  progress on the interior sectioning, scratch transmission tunnel, firewall, & pickup box side skirts & roll pan.

[BadJuju]

[misterNNL]

On 6/4/2022 at 1:45 PM, Plowboy said:

Here's a photo of Dennis' '37 that I snagged.

http://public.fotki.com/deucepu/37-pickup-chopped--/dscn5720.html

 

I tried to access this but it's blocked.

[BadJuju]

No idea, sorry.  I'm not a Fotki poster.  I can't access it right now, either.

[misterNNL]

On 7/29/2022 at 2:21 PM, BadJuju said:

UPDATE:  progress on the interior sectioning, scratch transmission tunnel, firewall, & pickup box side skirts & roll pan.

Aligning the top bed rail with the door side moulding line was a good idea. That gives the whole design some continuity and balance.

[Plowboy]

1 hour ago, misterNNL said:

I tried to access this but it's blocked.

That's weird. I get a "members account has been blocked" message. Must be a Fotki glitch. Seems to happen with them a lot.