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Posted (edited)

Is the front arms suppose to be able to move up and down? I think that's what its talking about is not gluing E1,E4,E17, and E18.  That is confusing to me too, but i could be wrong.  What ever goes in front might actually hold C4,and C6, and E18 in place. 

Edited by Dpate
  • Like 1
Posted

I don't know the answer. I guess I can proceed with no glue and see what happens. I haven't yet glued the other part of the control arms that were part of step 5.

Posted

Usually its just the steering part that links the wheels that dont get glued, i would expect everything else to be glued as the suspension itself doesn't look like it moves. It could be worth looking at other builds of the same kit to see how they did it. If its an older tamiya kit sometimes they had postcard size sheets included to amend steps in the instructions so there is the chance it may be missing

  • Like 1
Posted

It's a instruction key advisement. Eg this symbol means don't glue. It's for the next step I'm which will have that symbol attached to the wheel assembly.  It's not any sort of instruction pertaining to Step 6 itself at all, but refers to the next step and not gluing the polycaps into the front wheel backs. In Step 7 there's just the symbol, but not what it means.

  • Like 1
Posted
20 hours ago, niteowl7710 said:

It's a instruction key advisement. Eg this symbol means don't glue. It's for the next step I'm which will have that symbol attached to the wheel assembly.  It's not any sort of instruction pertaining to Step 6 itself at all, but refers to the next step and not gluing the polycaps into the front wheel backs. In Step 7 there's just the symbol, but not what it means.

I just looked, and I think you're right.  Thank you, and thanks to others that replied.  (That's not a very good way to convey the information in the instruction, I have to say.)

Posted

On a related note, is there a cement product that falls between Tamiya liquid cement and traditional tubed cement? The liquid is too runny and the tubed stuff so stringy. If I try to glue this together, it's going to make a big mess. 

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Posted

I like the Testors stuff in the black, plastic bottle when I need a thicker glue. It's not as thick as the tube glue, and it's not stringy. Apply it with a toothpick, etc. It will be more controllable than Tamiya liquid, but not as thick and gooey as the regular Testors tube. Humbrol and Revell also make model cement with a similar viscosity, though I've not used them.

Stock photo

  • 6 months later...
Posted

HI - I've got another question about gluing instructions for this same kit.  I'm getting ready to clue B37 to B38.  When I test fit with the front uprights in between the front uprights are loose - they aren't squeezed tight between B37 and B38.  Does anyone know if that is by design?  Or should I also glue the front uprights to the covers?  Yes, I know my progress is very slow, but I've had some hand and shoulder issues the last few months that has slowed this kind of stuff down.)  Thanks!! Jeff

 

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