Revell Boss 302 questions

[customline]

I picked up a Revell Boss 302 kit today and, after inspection of the innards, I have a few questions.  The first thing I noticed was an extra engine block. I'm guessing remnants of another version, but what? Also there are these odd "posts" with holes on top on either side behind the front seats that appear to accept a roll bar that is among the "extras " and is not called out on the parts list. There's also side scoops not listed. What version do these parts belong to? 

After studying pics on the web of '69 Boss 302s I noticed every single pic of this model had the quarter glass up in place. Was that glass fixed on the fastback bodies? I thought I would open the glass on my build but if they don't open on the 1:1, well....anyway, I know there's a mustang expert out there that would like to enlighten me on these items.  I would appreciate it. 

[Can-Con]

I don't think the 1/4 glass on the real cars open but I'm sure someone with more experience with them will chime in later.

I do know the things you ask about the kit come from the two versions originally released.

Both of these kits have been released several times since first issues back in the late '80s.

[Fat Brian]

Yep, there are a lot of vestigial parts in the 69 Mustang now. The extra engine parts are for the 428 Cobra Jet that has been the engine in every other version of the kit. The extra scoops are for the various Shelby and Mach 1 body styles that have been produced. The roll bar is for the Shelby convertible and the posts molded into the interior bucket are easy to remove. The rear widows are fixed on the fastback models but do roll down on convertibles.

[Dr Cobra]

The quarter windows on 69-70 fastbacks don't roll down,but they do flip out.

[customline]

Thank you everyone! I plan on building this kit OOB. Revell should really provide a correct tub for this version, shouldn't they? Removing the roll bar artifacts and covering the top well seems a bit much to build a correct rendition of the Boss 302. Coincidentally,  I get e-mails daily from Hemmings and yesterday there was an in- depth article on the Boss 302. Some really good info.

https://www.hemmings.com/stories/2022/07/08/1969-70-ford-mustang-boss-302-buyers-guide

[Fat Brian]

Ideally they would but removing them for some versions but leaving them in the Shelby versions where they are correct would probably mean fairly significant mods to the tool. You'd have to cut the inside of the interior face of the tool to accept a removable insert then cut two interiors because you will most likely destroy the existing interior to create the cavity for the insert. It seems like a lot of expense and complication for something that's pretty easy to do on the user end.

[customline]

57 minutes ago, Fat Brian said:

Ideally they would but removing them for some versions but leaving them in the Shelby versions where they are correct would probably mean fairly significant mods to the tool. You'd have to cut the inside of the interior face of the tool to accept a removable insert then cut two interiors because you will most likely destroy the existing interior to create the cavity for the insert. It seems like a lot of expense and complication for something that's pretty easy to do on the user end.

That's somewhat valid due to the "4" on the box but knowing the plan to squeeze subsequent versions for decades of a 1:1 car that was available in many manifestations, wouldn't it be appropriate to tool up two tubs or the parts to add to a "base" tub? Think about it. I guess the thinking was to put a skill level 4 on the box and let the guys with Dremels worry about authenticity, right? Some stupid kid won't know the difference anyway.

 

[Fat Brian]

20 minutes ago, customline said:

That's somewhat valid due to the "4" on the box but knowing the plan to squeeze subsequent versions for decades of a 1:1 car that was available in many manifestations, wouldn't it be appropriate to tool up two tubs or the parts to add to a "base" tub? Think about it. I guess the thinking was to put a skill level 4 on the box and let the guys with Dremels worry about authenticity, right? Some stupid kid won't know the difference anyway.

 

I guess they decided to focus their tooling budget on things that were more bang for their buck like fixing the horrible front end this kit used to have. The 302 and flat hood are also new for this version of the kit. The posts in the interior tub can be dealt with pretty easily with a photoetch saw and a sanding stick.

[Fat Brian]

One other thing to mention, the shock towers under the hood are notched at the top. This is a carryover from the original 1/24 Boss 429 kit and only accurate for 429 cars.

[Tabbysdaddy]

That's the point of the skill level system, to warn that more advanced modeling techniques may be required. Such as removing unwanted details. 

[customline]

7 hours ago, Fat Brian said:

I guess they decided to focus their tooling budget on things that were more bang for their buck like fixing the horrible front end this kit used to have. The 302 and flat hood are also new for this version of the kit. The posts in the interior tub can be dealt with pretty easily with a photoetch saw and a sanding stick.

It's going to take more than that, Brian.  Gotta fill the void, too. And then cover the top well. It's easy stuff but it's not a Boss 302 as claimed. I don't mind doing the mods but c'mon, man ?

[customline]

4 hours ago, Tabbysdaddy said:

That's the point of the skill level system, to warn that more advanced modeling techniques may be required. Such as removing unwanted details. 

Maybe the box should also display a disclaimer that states "The model kit described herein is not necessarily what you are getting. You will need a Dremel rotary tool and a supply of Evergreen styrene shapes.  You will need to use your research skills in order to find and correct the inaccuracies the manufacturer has included in this kit."

[Tabbysdaddy]

4 minutes ago, customline said:

Maybe the box should also display a disclaimer that states "The model kit described herein is not necessarily what you are getting. You will need a Dremel rotary tool and a supply of Evergreen styrene shapes.  You will need to use your research skills in order to find and correct the inaccuracies the manufacturer has included in this kit."

That would be true for most kits out there. Convertible wells in non convertible interiors, automatic transmissions with a stick shift, etc...

[customline]

1 minute ago, Tabbysdaddy said:

That would be true for most kits out there. Convertible wells in non convertible interiors, automatic transmissions with a stick shift, etc...

God, grant me the serenity.....

[Fat Brian]

36 minutes ago, customline said:

It's going to take more than that, Brian.  Gotta fill the void, too. And then cover the top well. It's easy stuff but it's not a Boss 302 as claimed. I don't mind doing the mods but c'mon, man ?

Fair enough, it's been a while since I looked at removing these. I thought they were a bit more free standing.

[customline]

19 minutes ago, Fat Brian said:

Fair enough, it's been a while since I looked at removing these. I thought they were a bit more free standing.

My guess is the posts were solid in some previous release but to save a few grams of styrene they modified the tub so the posts were hollow, so now I gotta cut the posts off, fill the void with styrene and bondo the seams. Piece of cake. Easy peasy. Maybe I'll just use the roll bar. ?. 

[1930fordpickup]

5 hours ago, customline said:

Piece of cake. Easy peasy. Maybe I'll just use the roll bar. ?. 

I agree with you on this. 

[customline]

6 hours ago, 1930fordpickup said:

I agree with you on this. 

The thing is, I don't really care if I need to do extra work to get where I want to go with this; I have everything I need to do it. There are plenty of model builders out there that do not have the things needed to make some of these kits an accurate model of the subject stated on the box. I regularly cut, fill, scratch build, and research stuff like many of us on this forum. I think it's not fair for the kit maker to not be honest about what they are selling. Just putting a "4" on the box doesn't tell the whole story.