1963 Super Torque Ford

[MarkJ]

I forgot to put the holes in the body for the exhaust, so I will need to do that next.

[MarkJ]

I googled pearlized paint and got this.

Much like a metallic auto paint finish, pearlescent paint is generally standard auto paint, but instead of adding metal powder, microscopic ceramic particles are added instead.

[MarkJ]

I Put the half holes in the body for the exhaust and added a third coat of primer. I'm pretty sure I can go on to the paint now.

[MarkJ]

I got the pearl white on and it actually looks like a very light gray with tiny sparkles in it which is what it is supposed to look like. I will need to re do the front of the hood where I thought I removed the ford letters. After I put on the paint they ghosted back through. I will need to re sand them re prime and re paint that part of the hood. I will then wait a couple of days to clear it so I can polish the clear. Eventually I will future it after the decals are installed.

[MarkJ]

Under brighter lighting, my model should look something like this when finished.

[MarkJ]

I have one semi good shot of the real car at the Southern 500 from a grainy YouTube video capture, and you can see the white outline around the sponsor decal on the quarter panel. There are not a lot of color photos of this car anywhere that I could find. If the car was not a darker color than white you would not see this white outline. In previous races the outline color was a light blue. For this car it was white. Also the micro precision decal is white in the center, and it stands out as white also. Thats the decal next to the crewman's belt.

Edited April 27, 2023 by MarkJ

[Pierre Rivard]

This looks very good Mark. Photo of the hood shows the pearl finish quite well and it appears to have brushed on quite successfully.

I'm still looking for a silver that will work, so I should see what Createx has.

[MarkJ]

3 minutes ago, Pierre Rivard said:

This looks very good Mark. Photo of the hood shows the pearl finish quite well and it appears to have brushed on quite successfully.

I'm still looking for a silver that will work, so I should see what Createx has.

Thanks, Pierre. I used your formula of 60/40 percent thinner to paint for the pearl and it went on pretty well. The createx does seem to dry a bit slower and I did not have their thinner so I used distilled water. That mixture allowed me to move the paint around with the brush to remove any ridges or heavy spots before it would start to dry helping to remove any brush indentations. from my research on this paint it seems to be more developed to be used on fabric than hard plastic.

[TooOld]

That pearl looks very good Mark !  It's not easy to get it right when spraying but the fact you brushed it on with that result is saying something , well done !

[MarkJ]

8 hours ago, TooOld said:

That pearl looks very good Mark !  It's not easy to get it right when spraying but the fact you brushed it on with that result is saying something , well done !

Thanks, Bob. This paint is supposed to be airbrushed but I never quite mastered that craft. I would have either had a runny mess or an orange peel special if I had try to use one on this model. Luckily Pierre has come up with a process of brush painting that makes even a clutz like me come up with half acceptable results. It's all in the thinning and the moving the paint around till it looks just right and then to know when to stop working and let it dry. One thing for sure with this method you will never get orange peel and you should not ever get a run. 

[redscampi]

On 4/27/2023 at 6:46 AM, MarkJ said:

I will need to re do the front of the hood where I thought I removed the ford letters. After I put on the paint they ghosted back through. I will need to re sand them re prime and re paint that part of the hood.

I read somewhere back in the 1980's that the only was to be sure to get rid of the ghosting is to grind the logo off and fill. I don't know, I've never tried it.

[jjsipes]

Another method that has worked for me to prevent ghosting is the sand down the lettering, brush over it with liquid glue and then sand again. Have heard that the plastic has memory and the liquid glue helps to change its memory

[MarkJ]

Thanks guys. I think I will try Jason's idea because it seems a lot easier, and I really don't like putty. It's weird because the emblems on the front fender did not ghost at all.

[herbertb]

By 60/40 percent thinner to paint

Do you mean 6 drop of thinner to 4 drop of paint

and what kind of primer did you use?

I am going to try to finish a 66 Fairlane half chassie car same number.

[MarkJ]

10 hours ago, herbertb said:

By 60/40 percent thinner to paint

Do you mean 6 drop of thinner to 4 drop of paint

and what kind of primer did you use?

I am going to try to finish a 66 Fairlane half chassie car same number.

Herbert, yes that is correct. I mix up 12 drops thinner to 8 drops paint mixed in a pallet just to make sure I have enough to do the whole body with one good coat. I use Vallejo white acrylic primer. It is thinned at 25% or like 1 drop thinner to 4 drops primer. I find that distilled water works the best as a thinner for acrylic paint that is brushed on. JMHO. Do you have any in progress pictures of you build. I would like to see how you are doing the half chassis. I also plan to do a 66 Fairlane.

[herbertb]

Thanks. No picture at this time. I have a 1965 Ford for front chassie need to remove 2mm from width.  Also have 1966 Ford model, 1966 Ford Fairlane GT/GTA model, 1966 Ford Fairlane 427 model, 1967 Mercury Comet Cyclone, 1969 Ford Torino Cobra (the chassis in this kit would probably be good to use). I have a build tread on Randy's not much none. Need to get another fotki account.

[MarkJ]

12 hours ago, herbertb said:

Thanks. No picture at this time. I have a 1965 Ford for front chassie need to remove 2mm from width.  Also have 1966 Ford model, 1966 Ford Fairlane GT/GTA model, 1966 Ford Fairlane 427 model, 1967 Mercury Comet Cyclone, 1969 Ford Torino Cobra (the chassis in this kit would probably be good to use). I have a build tread on Randy's not much none. Need to get another fotki account.

Sounds good. I will be watching for your final build pictures here and at Randy's

[MarkJ]

Haven't worked on the build in a while. Been helping my wife with a project she has that needs 19 pictures, some from 50 years ago, edited and made into 4x6's. Went back to the build which I had messed the hood up, by using thinner instead of distilled water to put another coat of pearl white on. Learned a lesson on that one. Createx paint does not like its own thinner when brush painting with it. Need to remember to just stick with distilled water. It does like its own clear top coat but I used distilled water with it and won't even bother to use the thinner, which they call reducer.

[MarkJ]

Put that last coat of clear on the body. Will wait a couple of days to polish it with Novus2.  I hope to start on the interior tomorrow.

[TooOld]

Nice !  I learned that lesson about using thinner instead of water too , even when brushing small parts the thinner makes a mess .

[MarkJ]

30 minutes ago, TooOld said:

Nice !  I learned that lesson about using thinner instead of water too , even when brushing small parts the thinner makes a mess .

Yes, I have also found that createx paint, which is what I have to use on the body because Vallejo doesn't make a pearlized white, is much thinner paint than Vallejo, so the 60/40 ratio does not work. It actually makes the paint to thin. I'm using a 20/80 thinner to paint ratio with the createx, and using distilled water. 

[MarkJ]

Got two coats of clear on and polished with novus 1&2. Still trying to fix the hood that the thinner messed up. I really want to put the body aside so I can get on the interior.

[MarkJ]

I've come to the realization that I am going to have to strip the hood. There is no fixing it in the condition it's in now. 

[Pierre Rivard]

That's too bad. I understand the feeling. Making it through paint is the hardest part of the build (for me)

[MarkJ]

5 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

That's too bad. I understand the feeling. Making it through paint is the hardest part of the build (for me)

Yes, me too. I'm using nail polish remover, the less caustic type. Came off in about 30 minutes using a toothbrush.