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AMT White-Freightliner to Optimus Prime


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Hello all. I went for a stroll around a hobby shop and found the AMT White-Freightliner kit. Being a transformers fan I knew immediately I wanted to make it an Optimus Prime look-a-like. The kit isn't any exact Prime alt mode so I hope to be blending aspects from all. I know other people have already done this based on my research and it was great to get inspiration!

Right next to it just so happened to be a 1/25 scale trailer too! This solidified the idea. I hope to use polystyrene sheets to fill in the ridges along the side in the shape of his iconic stripe, in theory to make it smooth all the way along just like the original toy.

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Edited by Devyn
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Starting right off I already began on the engine today and I'm pretty proud of it. Black primer and carefully sprayed Tamiya Buff to not get a complete tan and show those shadows, and also getting that dark muted tan that the Cummins NHC engines I've found are. Also dabbled with some light grey wash/panel liner to further the shadows on those smaller details

 

I also experimented with some colors. The testors metallic red ran dark so I experimented with some undercoats and found yellow to bring out the best of the red shade. Unfortunately I don't have that result pictured

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Small update while I'm waiting on the majority of my supplies to come in the mail.

I glued together the frame, and to add some mass to the blue section of the truck that somehow become his whole lower legs, I included the steering part of this gluing and painting stage. The rear differentials, axles, and gearboxes will be black to emulate the reference picture below.

To get the blue I got, I sprayed a bunch of Vallejo blue onto the frame, and then topped it with testors spray enamel metallic blue. It's the best blue I've gotten experimenting with undercoats and different paints. 

I've also added the transmission to the Cummins and painted it my own mix of steel, test fit a bunch of the cab and interior parts to see where I can place some locate tabs when I glue the cab together, glued together the differentials, and I'm working on gluing together the wheels. At least, the parts I know glue together.

I have no idea how to glue the wheels to the frame to ensure they still spin and I also don't know how the engine and transmission are supposed to attach to the frame. If anyone could help show me how those work that would be amazing. 

I'm still debating how I want the cab to work. I have a full interior color scheme planned, I just have a bunch of ideas for the stripe. I don't know if I should go straight like the toy, or do a cool 45° upward like in the truck below.

Anyways, off to a new weekend of modeling

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Fighting for my life with this seamline but I'm probably gonna have to call it before I lose any more detail.

Bought some archer transfers for the rivets but I don't know what I'm gonna do about that center line down the top of the cab and the tiny "White-Freightliner" logo near the steps

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15 minutes ago, Rockford said:

The notorious Freightliner joint! I don't envy you that job. I'm sure you'll sort it. 

I did a little bit more sanding but I'll have to call it good. I'm hoping all the chrome pieces, a lot of chrome trim, and the slightly thick metallic red will distract from it

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I saw the real truck at Freightliner in the Daimler Truck lobby a couple of months ago. Certain things I wouldn't worry about on this build, it's looking good.  The AMT Freightliner COE is a kit that goes back to the early 1970's and has its problems.  The truck that you are building is based on a Freightliner COE from the 1990's so there are some differences (like the doors and fewer rivets) just in the basic cab.  People won't be looking at the details on the cab, probably best to remove the emblem and marker light on the cab skirt, smooth as many rivets as you want and make the seams disappear.  The cool part will be all of the Transformer/Optimus Prime pieces that you build on the chassis.

Looking forward to this one!

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1 minute ago, Muncie said:

I saw the real truck at Freightliner in the Daimler Truck lobby a couple of months ago. Certain things I wouldn't worry about on this build, it's looking good.  The AMT Freightliner COE is a kit that goes back to the early 1970's and has its problems.  The truck that you are building is based on a Freightliner COE from the 1990's so there are some differences (like the doors and fewer rivets) just in the basic cab.  People won't be looking at the details on the cab, probably best to remove the emblem and marker light on the cab skirt, smooth as many rivets as you want and make the seams disappear.  The cool part will be all of the Transformer/Optimus Prime pieces that you build on the chassis.

Looking forward to this one!

This brings some ease to mind. Thank you. One sides logo looks fine but the other doesn't so I'll probably sand one away and try to keep the other (I'm a fan of it). I have archer transfers coming so any rivets are no worry. And I can bring back door panel trim with a touch of silver or chrome. The only thing uniquely Optimus going into this is the logos. Trying to go for realism. 

Paints and plastic for the trailer came in so maybe I can work on that while I wait on the rivets.

Again I really appreciate your input!

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If you have another kit you can take a foil copy of the White Freightliner emblem, sand the one on this kit off and replace it with the copied emblem.
It's not hard to do, put a piece of regular kitchen aluminum foil over the emblem, burnish it down with cotton tip swab and a rubber from a pencil, turn the copied emblem around and fill the voids with epoxy or another glue that hardens, sand the backside and trim the edges and you have your emblem.
It may take a few tries but it's not that hard.

Edited by Force
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Interior color scheme has been realized. All other interior parts have also been painted but are waiting for detail work. Pretty proud of the masking job!

Tomorrow will be detail work and assembly. The interior is an important milestone so I can chill for a little 

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2 minutes ago, Rockford said:

Looks good, did you sort your problem with installation of the interior? It's so long since I built one of these I can't offer any solid advice but can imagine it is all to do with filing the interior bucket. 

No not yet. I'm not sure if you can see in the pictures but I have since taken a knife to a lot of the edges but I have no idea if it's helped at all.

My main fear is the seam popping once the exterior is all painted, but luckily it's the rear panel seam and will almost never be seen unless photographed from that angle. Worst case scenario, I glue it and hold it shut til it dries.

Another issue I've just worked around was the axles being too long. The way I worked around that was by not installing the axles lol

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On 9/1/2023 at 1:58 AM, Devyn said:

No not yet. I'm not sure if you can see in the pictures but I have since taken a knife to a lot of the edges but I have no idea if it's helped at all.

My main fear is the seam popping once the exterior is all painted, but luckily it's the rear panel seam and will almost never be seen unless photographed from that angle. Worst case scenario, I glue it and hold it shut til it dries.

Another issue I've just worked around was the axles being too long. The way I worked around that was by not installing the axles lol

I've built over a dozen of these white freightliners. A few tips I can give you are: 

-Shorten the front axle by 1/8" as it's too wide.

-Add thin styrene strips on the inside of the cab along the seams to give it structure when you install the interior.

-If your interior tub is tight, shave down all the edges, and shave down the front of the interior tub on the bottom where it mates with the front of the cab.

-The mirrors when you get to that stage is a pain. Scrape the chrome plating away, glue one of the ">" brackets to the to of the "]" bracket. Let it dry then do glue the bottom one on, and then install the rectangular mirror on, then install on the cab with superglue.

-And finally, with the metal axles going in the drums, they are the right length. Over time, the molds have worn down and made the holes smaller and smaller, making it tough for the axle to slide in freely. Either drill the drum hole out slightly, or tap the metal axle into the drum with a hammer! 

Hope all this makes sense, best of luck to you. It's a great kit, and your project is looking fantastic so Far. Beautiful colors 😎

Edited by TruckerAL
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Progress update!

Archer transfers rivets are a life saver! It's like nothing even happened. I did get a hair in my """""last""""" coat of primer so I'll have to sand and prime just a LITTLE more. 

I also painted all of the radiator parts, pipes, and the mudflaps, which will be installed tomorrow.

otherwise the chassis is done with the exhaust being installed today. Had to extend the central pipe that connects to the engine just a little bit more with some chrome sprue clippings. The sprue is more oval than round so it isn't perfect but from a side view and quick glance, it looks fine 

Today ended on a good note with me walking away on my own terms and not out of frustration

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Edited by Devyn
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6 minutes ago, Devyn said:

Huh?? I bought from them a week ago and they arrived 3 days ago. 

Okay, I tried to order some time ago and the message on the website was that they had closed down and took no more orders and I couldn't order, so they must have changed their mind and opened up again.

Edited by Force
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Alright! Red has been painted.

As shown in the pictures below, this was achieved with a base coat of thinned Vallejo yellow (this coat came out a little grainy and it slightly shows in the final product upon close inspection). 

With testing, this showed to result in the brightest red from the next paint I used: Testors enamel metallic red rattle can. 

Overall really proud of it and probably wouldn't change a thing. I'll let it sit a bit, gloss coat, sit even longer, then I'll mask off the silver stripe around the cab. After that, it's nothing but gluing!

Then I'll move onto the trailer which is both extremely simple and very complex

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Stripe pattern has been masked off. Gonna wait for more silver to arrive because I accidentally spilled my remaining Vallejo aluminum.

I used the model air version on the rest of the model, but I bought the Metal Airbrushing aluminum because it was faster. I'm hoping it's a close enough match otherwise I'll wait for the aluminum I used previously

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On 9/6/2023 at 7:06 AM, Devyn said:

Progress update!

Archer transfers rivets are a life saver! It's like nothing even happened. I did get a hair in my """""last""""" coat of primer so I'll have to sand and prime just a LITTLE more. 

I also painted all of the radiator parts, pipes, and the mudflaps, which will be installed tomorrow.

otherwise the chassis is done with the exhaust being installed today. Had to extend the central pipe that connects to the engine just a little bit more with some chrome sprue clippings. The sprue is more oval than round so it isn't perfect but from a side view and quick glance, it looks fine 

Today ended on a good note with me walking away on my own terms and not out of frustration

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Hey Devin, what Archer Transfer rivets did you use?
I'm trying to determen size and spacing to place an order myself now when it seems like Archer Transfers are back, I missed out tha last time I tried to order.
Í'm leaning towards the 1:24 scale AR88154 and AR88155 rivets in the Generic And Scale Specific Aircraft Rivets section but I'm not sure.

Edited by Force
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