FujimiLover Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Hello there. I have an interesting question regarding white. If your model is molded in white, and you want the final color to be white also, how do you accomplish a beautiful finish? I used to just clear coat over the white molded plastic, but found it still look's toy-ish or fake. Primer, then paint? How do you get a smooth white finish? Do you clear coat over plastic? Or do you paint over it? I know it's all just preference really, but still like your opinion. And, what's the best white paint you've used? Just a basic gloss white finish is what I'm interested, no pearls, no blue-ish tinted white, or glacer white or whatever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispy Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 No matter the color of molded plastic I build the prep to paint all the same on every body. So, for me that means fixing any flaws I find be it mold lines or sink marks, with putty. After that I do a light sanding on my body as well as the sections I may have used putty on. Then to a primer. Regarding color usually will dictate my primer color choice. In your case of white I'll use white primer, either Tamiya or Plasti-Kote. Once I get that on I look for more flaws, fix and sand again. Once I'm happy I'll do my final primer coat and wet sand it. I'll then start my paint. Tamiya is always a good choice for white along with their clear. OF course any white through an airbrush with clear will also do the trick. I've never cleared over bare plastic for the same reason you mentioned. It looks to toy like. Other methods are out there, this is just how I do mine. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 Thank you! When I did my last K-S convertible Ferrari, I did primer over the white and painted white ontop of that. I dont' think I did any mold-fixings or anything like that. Most Fujimi kit's are pretty nice to start with. On the RX7, I did sand down some lines where it looked like they fused some parts together, or at least the mold parts or whatever. It was usually on the edges of the rear bumper is where I see these lines. My next model I'll look more carefully for these imperfections. Do you wash your model before you begin working on it? I know sometimes their can still be release agents on the plastic that we cant' see, but can effect the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispy Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 Yes, I wash the model body. Sometimes, if you don't, even primer won't stick to it! LOL Don't ask how I know. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 For a white finish I've used Plasti-Kote white sandable primer applied after wet sanding/washing the car. When dry wet sand again looking for any flaws. Prime again. When body and primer are set, I'll shoot it with either Testor's wet look clear or Tamiya TS65 clear pearl. The TS65 has some metallic in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 Duplacolor and Tamiya make great whites This T Bolt was duplacolored and cleared with the TS13..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Cole Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 The reason the "clearcoat only" method looked toy-like, is you're still looking at colored plastic when you're done. You need to apply pigment- actual white paint. Avoid topcoating the white paint with an enamel based clear, it will turn yellow over time! I am building a Ford GT40 to be painted white, I will use Tamiya Racing White, and I hope to avoid clear in this particular case, but if I wanted to, I would use Tamiya clear, or one of the lacquer based clears from DupliColor. I find that Krylon is too chemically "hot" to use, but I know someone who uses Krylon exclusively Another reason to not just clearcoat white plastic- every model you build, no matter the color, should have the inside of the body painted flat black. My GT40 will have the inside of the flip up nose and rear deck in flat black. On a street car, this helps hide what is still visible around the edges and the gaps, and gives the model a more 'finished' look, in most cases. This is true especially in wheel wells etc. If the outside of the body had no paint, that 'black inside' would be obvious from the outside, depending how translucent the body is. -Jon- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 21, 2009 Author Share Posted March 21, 2009 I haven't clear-coated over bare plastic in ages. I was just wondering if anybody has done it this way, or what is the best way. When to know what color primer for certain colors? I've noticed that red on primer tends to look flat. On a previous KS model that I attempted an Italian Red on the Ferrari, I think I used gray primer first can't remember, but the end result looked a bit flat and just didn't have a nice glossy finish that I was looking for. So if doing red example, is it best to paint red over bare, or should I try white primer next time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Cole Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 I haven't clear-coated over bare plastic in ages. I was just wondering if anybody has done it this way, or what is the best way. When to know what color primer for certain colors? I've noticed that red on primer tends to look flat. On a previous KS model that I attempted an Italian Red on the Ferrari, I think I used gray primer first can't remember, but the end result looked a bit flat and just didn't have a nice glossy finish that I was looking for. So if doing red example, is it best to paint red over bare, or should I try white primer next time? Funny you should mention red oxide primer, topcoated with red paint! I just did that on my last build, and boy was I disappointed! Fortunately, it was just the wheels on my model that came out wrong, but I was counting on a bright red for contrast. The red oxide primer will indeed darken the red topcoat. I should have used light gray or white primer. Both will treat your topcoat much kinder that red oxide will. With red lacquer, it is common to depend on a good quality clearcoat to get a gloss. For a rattle-can, I would recommend whatever brand lacquer red paint you used. I guess that's not 'carved in stone' however. I think others need to chime in on that one. Just remember, the gloss is not in the can of red paint, you must apply it after the color coats. Just like in the 1:1 auto body world, base coat / clear coat. -Jon- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 21, 2009 Author Share Posted March 21, 2009 In the big boy's thread, I mentioend buildint some 1/18 scale model kit's. As I've yet to use an airbrush, I'd love to get that ultra smooth glossy red "die-cast like" finish that these awesome Koenig models deserve. Wondering what's the best of the best rattle-can paints to use in order to achieve professional results? I'd hate to invest the funds into a large model kit having it turn to poop due to pore finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wyatt Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 This one was done with PlastiKote sandable white primer and Tamiya Pure White, then cleared with Tamiya clear. I also like Duplicolor Bright White. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diymirage Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 you know i have seen a cuda molded in purple on here and the only finish on that one was a awesome polish job maybe thats an idea for you just polish it really well ill try it with a body i have laying around and take some pics for ya if you want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coopdad Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 At this past model show I went to, I too saw a car that had its plastic polished rather than being painted. It was black so the shine kinda hid the "plastic look". The owner said he wet polished, polished and polished more. After that, he polished even more. He told me spent HOURS as a challenge to himself, just to see if he could do it. He also said the plastic is much harder than paint taking much more time and "elbow grease" to achieve the same results (shine) and would never do that again... paint was much better and easier. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share Posted March 22, 2009 I'm afraid I dont' have the patients to polish and polish and polish. Maybe just one light polish, but I'm happy with a basic clear gloss coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coopdad Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Ditto here. The guy was one of those that DO have the patience and said never again. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 23, 2009 Author Share Posted March 23, 2009 How about useing the molded color as your base color? I think the two Veilside kit's I've got coming are probably molded gray. Fujimi does that alot. Then again, I've noticed that sometimes, even the plastic, particularly the gray molded models, have these dark lines in it that would look horrible on a finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 I have only one comment to this entire thread------------"Results follow desire". You want it bad enough, you gotta follow through and do what it takes to achieve the intended result. 'Nuff said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DR Dubois Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 This Chevy was scuffed, washed and painted with Testors white right over the plastic. And this 56 Nomad the same. I find you don't need a primer base and less paint means little details don't get lost under numerous coats of paint. Of course if your doing body work using fillers etc., you should prime it for an even base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Just primer it with neutral gray then lay down 2-3 coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Just primer it with neutral gray then lay down 2-3 coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 25, 2009 Author Share Posted March 25, 2009 Thank's. In regards to the KS models I just purchased, they are both molded in white. I'm not sure if I want to paint'em white, red, or gun-metal. Whatever color I do the hardtop in, I plan on matching the convertible with. If I choose red, I'll still primer, paint white for base coat, and then red. I noticed red pops out better and looks more true to red over white. Red over plain primer tends to look dull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 Just use gray primer and lay down the white. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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