Is There Room For Another 41 Plymouth or Two?

[LennyB]

4 minutes ago, customline said:

I like it, Len.  Very interested in the Createx paint. I have a bunch of it that might be cured in the bottles by now 💩. I need to check that 😕. Anyway, the coupe looks super!

Thanks Jim. The stuff I have is about 3 years old and still seems OK.  Unless it goes to 💩on me next week.😫

[customline]

3 hours ago, LennyB said:

Thanks Jim. The stuff I have is about 3 years old and still seems OK.  Unless it goes to 💩on me next week.😫

Mine is probably 6 or so years old, I think...( I procrastinate a little 🤓). 

[NOBLNG]

That looks great Len!👍 The trick with any water based paints I believe is multiple VERY light coats. My first and only attempt with Createx was a disaster, but I didn’t know what I was doing at the time. I have a few more bottles that I will try soon.

[LennyB]

23 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

That looks great Len!👍 The trick with any water based paints I believe is multiple VERY light coats. My first and only attempt with Createx was a disaster, but I didn’t know what I was doing at the time. I have a few more bottles that I will try soon.

Very true Greg, it’s a different way of thinking from solvent based paints. Wet coats don’t work. Spray a light coat and let it dry. I basically sprayed a coat and set a timer for 15 minutes.  Paint has to be dry before you lay down the next coat. 

[customline]

11 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

That looks great Len!👍 The trick with any water based paints I believe is multiple VERY light coats. My first and only attempt with Createx was a disaster, but I didn’t know what I was doing at the time. I have a few more bottles that I will try soon.

I hope I can remember this information when I finally get around to using the stuff.  Good info, Greg. 👍

11 hours ago, LennyB said:

Very true Greg, it’s a different way of thinking from solvent based paints. Wet coats don’t work. Spray a light coat and let it dry. I basically sprayed a coat and set a timer for 15 minutes.  Paint has to be dry before you lay down the next coat. 

I may be too impatient to use it, Lenny, but this is more good info for me if I ever do. How many coats did you apply on the coupe? (I don't remember if you  already  said 💩)

[customline]

Hey, Len, I just read back (to see what I can't remember) and I have a question about the use of the opaque - was that used as a base because the "wicked" is translucent? Also did you use Tamiya primer as a final before color? I hope I'm not being a PITA about this 🥴.

[NOBLNG]

1 hour ago, customline said:

I hope I can remember this information when I finally get around to using the stuff.  Good info, Greg. 👍

I may be too impatient to use it, Lenny, but this is more good info for me if I ever do. How many coats did you apply on the coupe? (I don't remember if you  already  said 💩)

Sixty seconds with a hair dryer on low will get the  paint dry enough. It doesn’t need to be completely cured. Just the surface has to be dry enough to accept the next coat.

[LennyB]

5 hours ago, customline said:

Hey, Len, I just read back (to see what I can't remember) and I have a question about the use of the opaque - was that used as a base because the "wicked" is translucent? Also did you use Tamiya primer as a final before color? I hope I'm not being a PITA about this 🥴.

Sounds like you have it right. 🧐First I put down Tamiya grey primer, covered that with the opaque red, three coats, and then went over it with around five coats of the wicked, which is semi-transparent according to Createx. When I painted my 68 Fairlane in just the Wicked Yellow after 10 coats it still didn't cover.  The opaque comes out with a satin sheen while the Wicked does have a gloss after you apply enough coats. 🧥🥼🧥🥼👍

[LennyB]

4 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

Sixty seconds with a hair dryer on low will get the  paint dry enough. It doesn’t need to be completely cured. Just the surface has to be dry enough to accept the next coat.

I found that varied with how much reducer I had in the paint and how heavy the coat. I set a timer so I could go off and do other things and not forget to come back.😬 My feathered brain does that all the time. 🥴But I like waiting until it is fully cured because if you have any buggers in the paint you can nip them off before going with another coat.  Seems you can't sand this stuff and then put clear over it, shows everything. So the last coat has to be a good one.

[Kenmojr]

Cool builds and a very interesting thread!

[LennyB]

41 minutes ago, Kenmojr said:

Cool builds and a very interesting thread!

Thanks Ken, glad you're enjoying it.

[customline]

5 hours ago, LennyB said:

Sounds like you have it right. 🧐First I put down Tamiya grey primer, covered that with the opaque red, three coats, and then went over it with around five coats of the wicked, which is semi-transparent according to Createx. When I painted my 68 Fairlane in just the Wicked Yellow after 10 coats it still didn't cover.  The opaque comes out with a satin sheen while the Wicked does have a gloss after you apply enough coats. 🧥🥼🧥🥼👍

It sounds like more work than I want to do for a paint job, Len.... I dunno.   🤔 Could be laziness creeping up on me. 😴

[LennyB]

13 hours ago, customline said:

It sounds like more work than I want to do for a paint job, Len.... I dunno.   🤔 Could be laziness creeping up on me. 😴

That's why I just bought a bunch of Scale Finished paint for future projects.

[customline]

10 hours ago, LennyB said:

That's why I just bought a bunch of Scale Finished paint for future projects.

What type of paint are they selling ? I'm considering getting some MCW enamels in basic colors like flat black and gloss red and white, etc., you know for detail brush work. I'm just an old Testors enamel guy and can't think outside that box 😕. I bought a rattle can of Humbrol enamel "varnish" in clear flat. It smells kinda funny. Paint-wise, I feel a bit lost 🫤

[LennyB]

23 hours ago, customline said:

What type of paint are they selling ? I'm considering getting some MCW enamels in basic colors like flat black and gloss red and white, etc., you know for detail brush work. I'm just an old Testors enamel guy and can't think outside that box 😕. I bought a rattle can of Humbrol enamel "varnish" in clear flat. It smells kinda funny. Paint-wise, I feel a bit lost 🫤

What I bought is an automotive basecoat. It's a 2-stage urethane that is used on real cars. Need to topcoat it with a 2-K clear. I know, that sounds like too much work.🙄 

 

I still use the old, yes and some of what I have is old, Testors paint for detail work. Mix a few colors together for different shades.

[customline]

15 minutes ago, LennyB said:

What I bought is an automotive basecoat. It's a 2-stage urethane that is used on real cars. Need to topcoat it with a 2-K clear. I know, that sounds like too much work.🙄 

 

I still use the old, yes and some of what I have is old, Testors paint for detail work. Mix a few colors together for different shades.

That a tad over my head, Len.  I would not want to put that stuff in my $180 airbrush. Catalyzed paint? 🥺. Scarey. Am I being silly? Don't answer that 😞.

[LennyB]

15 hours ago, customline said:

That a tad over my head, Len.  I would not want to put that stuff in my $180 airbrush. Catalyzed paint? 🥺. Scarey. Am I being silly? Don't answer that 😞.

I've evolved over the years from painting real cars with lacquer, synthetic and acrylic enamels and in recent years 2-stage urethane.  I have to say I like working with the urethane, aside from the safety measures needed for the toxicity, so I figure I'll give it a shot on the little guys.🚗

[LennyB]

Think I need to have a little talk with the people at Createx....they say you can put any clear over their Wicked paints. Well this is what happens when you use Tamiya TS-13 clear. Didn't effect the primer at the lower rear, just the Wicked black. And it's been dry for over a week.

 

 

Not exactly the results I was looking for. Fortunately this is just a test subject so no real harm done.

Anyone else ever have this issue with these paints???? Comments greatly appreciated.

 

I previously used some Testors Gloss Clear and it went on without a problem. Just found it laid on too heavy direct from the can. Thinking of decanting it and using an airbrush. But what I really want to do is use a 2K.

 

 

[customline]

Paint....the final frontier......🥺.....there's gotta be an explanation.....right? 🙂

[NOBLNG]

33 minutes ago, LennyB said:

Think I need to have a little talk with the people at Createx....they say you can put any clear over their Wicked paints. Well this is what happens when you use Tamiya TS-13 clear. Didn't effect the primer at the lower rear, just the Wicked black. And it's been dry for over a week.

Anyone else ever have this issue with these paints???? Comments greatly appreciated.

 

I previously used some Testors Gloss Clear and it went on without a problem. Just found it laid on too heavy direct from the can.

FWIW, I have found Tamiya spray clears to be quite Hot! They will craze paint that Mr. hobby or Testors doesn’t.

[bobss396]

I tend to use TS-13 or TS-65 with strictly Tamiya sprays. I have used it over Duplicolor and it was fine.

[LennyB]

3 hours ago, bobss396 said:

I tend to use TS-13 or TS-65 with strictly Tamiya sprays. I have used it over Duplicolor and it was fine.

Thanks for the info. I thought about trying the Duplicolor clear. But right now it's 99% humidity and not expected to change for a few days. So clearcoats are out of the question.

[customline]

Since we're discussing paint right now (aren't we?), I can't seem to find much info on MCW enamel.  I see they have "hardener" but I cannot determine exactly what it's for. Is the enamel a catalyzed paint system? I'm confused 😕. I am so confused 😞

Edit: they have a really crappy website with many dead ends. Unbelievable 🤨

Edited May 11 by customline

[LennyB]

5 hours ago, customline said:

Since we're discussing paint right now (aren't we?), I can't seem to find much info on MCW enamel.  I see they have "hardener" but I cannot determine exactly what it's for. Is the enamel a catalyzed paint system? I'm confused 😕. I am so confused 😞

Edit: they have a really crappy website with many dead ends. Unbelievable 🤨

While I haven’t bought anything from MCW I see they have both enamel and urethane.  I would think the hardener is for the urethane but I see they list an enamel hardener.🤪  So can see why you are confused Jim  🤔 I took a look at their  FAQ’s but found no answers there

I have used enamel hardeners on real cars but not for a model. Makes the paint more durable and helps the shine.   But you don’t have to use it like you do with. 2k urethane.  

[customline]

3 hours ago, LennyB said:

While I haven’t bought anything from MCW I see they have both enamel and urethane.  I would think the hardener is for the urethane but I see they list an enamel hardener.🤪  So can see why you are confused Jim  🤔 I took a look at their  FAQ’s but found no answers there

I have used enamel hardeners on real cars but not for a model. Makes the paint more durable and helps the shine.   But you don’t have to use it like you do with. 2k urethane.  

Sometimes I think I'm better off not knowing stuff. Ignorance truly is bliss. 🤓 The loss of Model Master put me in a flat spin.