vincen47 Posted July 27 Author Posted July 27 4 hours ago, BK9300 said: This is awesome, Victor, and I got to learn about some new stuff out there, like the lift. Terrific work! Thanks! I’ve leaned a lot from your builds as well.
vincen47 Posted July 27 Author Posted July 27 3 hours ago, meechum68 said: This could be a museum piece with the documentation and craftsmanship you have done! Thanks, that means a lot. 1
vincen47 Posted July 27 Author Posted July 27 I made some finishing improvements to the lift this morning. Originally, I thought I’d keep the existing texture on the 3d print, as some of it resembled extruded aluminum. But, I ultimately decided to finish the columns with a smooth layer of styrene and the deck with rubber coin flooring to match the lower level. I made sure to elevate the photo etched “e track” as well. Here’s it mocked up with a couple bodies from future builds. This shows how much clearance I’ll have, enough for most vehicles. BTW, the bullnose Bronco is a 3d printed kit I got from Brian Dutz (a member here - Dutzie) on eBay. It is spectacular. The most spot-on accurate Bronco from that era. Highly recommended. 1
vincen47 Posted July 27 Author Posted July 27 One thing you may be wondering is why the stacker has an internal lift as opposed to a rear door lift. From what I’ve seen, smaller stackers tend to have a lift on the inside if they are designed for RV travel. They can easily carry two vehicles, or a single vehicle and a small boat on a trailer and/or other toys. Usually, there’s a small workshop in front, on the lower level. The trailers that have a full workshop/garage on the lower level, like many race haulers, require a lift built into the rear door. The vehicle(s) are on the upper level. Of course, the door lift design could also be used on smaller RV stackers too, if desired. But, I think the door lifts are more expensive, and therefore less common on the non-racing stackers. 1
Randy D Posted August 5 Posted August 5 Okay, the whole custom RV was over the top and now you're adding a cool trailer ???? This is so good Victor. Randy 1 1
vincen47 Posted August 6 Author Posted August 6 On 8/4/2025 at 9:35 PM, Randy D said: Okay, the whole custom RV was over the top and now you're adding a cool trailer ???? This is so good Victor. Randy Thanks! I should have an update on the trailer build this weekend.
vincen47 Posted August 15 Author Posted August 15 I have the interior of the stacker mostly complete. I decided on grey walls, with stainless and black cabinets. I figured I had to do the interior work, with the exception of final details and trim, ahead of the exterior, for painting purposes. I couldn’t mask and paint the various finishes with the exterior walls in place. I had to get the sidewalls basically finished up first. So, I got to work on the side entry door. I was able to make it operational by sandwiching small brass hinges into the framework. Adding finish styrene trim and the door skin, it fits snug and smooth. I painted the aluminum/stainless surfaces with Revell Chrome and Spaz Stix Clearcoat. The rubber coin flooring got a coat of Tamiya rubber black. The front workshop area started with cabinets from BCS Trading, but I customized them, adding a workbench top, and skinned them in styrene and chrome paint to represent stainless steel. I also modified a washer and dryer I got a while back on shapeways. Some large RVs are equipped with a stackable washer combo inside them, but I always thought it could be put in the stacker instead, freeing up interior space. In a custom stacker, anything goes. The “attic” has rub rails and e-track tie downs, along with an operational drop gate to connect with the lift. Next, I’ll begin work on the rear ramp door, the roof, and trim work. The interior will need a lot of detail parts, too. Then, exterior finishing. 1
BK9300 Posted August 15 Posted August 15 The stacker’s interior details, and detail painting, are very realistic - an expensive, custom trailer in the works! Will your lift be posable through the back doors, or will the stacker roof be removable? 1 1
vincen47 Posted August 15 Author Posted August 15 12 minutes ago, BK9300 said: The stacker’s interior details, and detail painting, are very realistic - an expensive, custom trailer in the works! Will your lift be posable through the back doors, or will the stacker roof be removable? Thanks! Yes, the roof will be removable and the rear door operational. The lift is removable too, so it could be posed in the down position. 1
Gary Chastain Posted August 15 Posted August 15 Wow Victor, that is some outstanding detail, well done. Where did you find e-track? 1
vincen47 Posted August 16 Author Posted August 16 24 minutes ago, Gary Chastain said: Wow Victor, that is some outstanding detail, well done. Where did you find e-track? Thanks. It’s 1/24 scale photo etched WWII aircraft carrier tie downs from Tom’s Modelworks, part number 2402. Not an exact match, but pretty close. I searched far and wide for e-track before coming upon the stuff from Tom’s.
Gary Chastain Posted August 16 Posted August 16 16 hours ago, vincen47 said: Thanks. It’s 1/24 scale photo etched WWII aircraft carrier tie downs from Tom’s Modelworks, part number 2402. Not an exact match, but pretty close. I searched far and wide for e-track before coming upon the stuff from Tom’s. Thanks, it represents it well, I will get some ordered for my trailer builds. 2
vincen47 Posted Monday at 07:19 PM Author Posted Monday at 07:19 PM Got some more of the finish work done on the interior of the stacker. I improved the cabinets with trim and BMF (I wasn’t happy with the finish of the Revell Chrome). Made the edges more precise. I added a 120v electrical outlet panel from Iceman - I thinned the depth before mounting it to the cabinet unit. I also added under cabinet lighting and more photo etched switches from CTM’s VN interior set to finish it out. I updated the attic space by adding rubber coin sheets to the walls and moving the e-track. The ladder was installed. Mounted spare tires for the trailer and for the RV were installed using modified In-Bed Tire Mounts from Iceman. The workbench stool is from Black Sheep Customs on eBay. Shortened the height a little. Goes well with the style of the build. Lots more detail work to be done inside, but first I need to turn my attention to the exterior of the trailer. 1
BK9300 Posted Monday at 09:03 PM Posted Monday at 09:03 PM Great added touches - and more to come - looks like the real deal, Victor! Love the workbench stool. 1 1
Gary Chastain Posted Monday at 10:28 PM Posted Monday at 10:28 PM Impressive work, tells a great story 1
Biggu Posted Monday at 11:52 PM Posted Monday at 11:52 PM This is off the clock ! ! ! Exactly as the real deal would be. Outstanding ! 1
nascarbob4344 Posted Tuesday at 01:58 PM Posted Tuesday at 01:58 PM how did you do the hinges for your doors?
vincen47 Posted Wednesday at 03:43 AM Author Posted Wednesday at 03:43 AM 13 hours ago, nascarbob4344 said: how did you do the hinges for your doors? It was my first time making an operating door like this, so I experimented a bit with some scrap plastic to see if the hinges would work. I originally thought I’d try piano hinges, but I started with small brass dollhouse hinges I got on eBay. I had to figure out how to orient the hinges to allow the door to fully open and close yet not have the hinges stick out too far beyond the outside wall. I wanted as close to a scale look as possible. Then I used CA glue to attach them to the existing door frame and the outer door skin. I cut the door narrower than the door frame to allow a gap for the hinges. I covered the gap later. Then I layered on the framework for the door using the same square styrene rod I used for the “studs” for the rest of the trailer walls, and some thin strips that matched the thickness of the brass hinge plate. The trailer walls are a sandwich of .040” sheet on the inside and outside of the studs. Then, the inner door skin was added. Now I just had the gap around the hinges to fill from the outside with styrene strip and cover over on the inside (like door frame casing). With each step I made sure the door would still operate before any glue was applied. There was some trial and error. In the last photo below, you’ll see that the interior casing leaves a void behind it to allow the door to close. You can see a notch in the inside frame where just out of sight, is the hinge. Hope this helps. Thanks for checking it out. 1
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