ModelcarJR Posted May 7 Share Posted May 7 I am starting this one that I picked up over the weekend at the Houston IPMS show. I am not a big Mustang guy but I thought I would build this one because it is a new tool from Revell and I have heard a lot of good things about the kit. A couple of things struck me as I perused the instructions. First, i think the rear rocker or valance should be black and not body color (white according to these build instructions). Secondly, I don't know a lot but I do know that you can't extend a color with a decal. In this case, the hood is partially painted black and THEN a decal is suppose to extend the color and include a pinstripe around the edges. I don't think it will work because there will be a seam and and it is very hard to match paint exactly to a decal so that it looks seamless. So I am going to do this backward and paint the black first, tape it off and paint the body color around the edges, in this case Grabber Blue, and then add only the pinstripe from the decal. Hope this works. Second, I would like opinions about removing the circle thingys (pin injector marks) on the interior roof. There are six on this roof and I normally ignore them because you would have to have a pen light and a magnifying glass to see them once everything is built. What would you do? Finally, I would like to share my good fortune at the Houston IPMS show. I took 8 places 1 gold, 4 silver and 3 bronze. Can you guess which one won the gold? So there are about 3 things that everyone can opine on! Thanks for looking! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModelcarJR Posted May 9 Author Share Posted May 9 (edited) I have made a little progress on this build although the weather is awful right now. Humidity barely below 60 percent late in the afternoon and I don't like to paint above 50%. But I taped off the hood and painted it. I used a template from a copy of the hood decal. I taped it on the hood and outlined it. Then I remembered that the 3mm Tamiya tape I have is the approximate width needed. So I removed the template softened the pencil line and put the Tamiya tape on. It followed the template lines approximately so I am happy with it. Painted with Krylon Semi-Gloss black because as I viewed the instructions it called for Black Silk Matte which is Semi-Gloss to me. Also looking at several photos on the internet the hood doesn't look like a flat or matte finish to me. So I will have to rub it out but I wait and do that when the blue is on. An ounce of paint is on its way. I also sanded out the interior top with my oscillating sander and it looks good to me. One other correction I made to the body was to cut in a panel line from the bottom of the front of the door through the rocker. If you have a crinkled front fender, normally you wouldn't cut through the rocker to get it off. If its a rear fender - tough luck- lots of repair work! Another hint on the contest entries: The predominant exteriors are, 3 MCW, 2 Tamiya, 2 Dupli-Color, and 1 Krylon. Edited May 9 by ModelcarJR add photos 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennyB Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 I always found the best way to represent the black on the hood was to spray it flat black and rub it with a cloth after to give it a slight sheen. What you have now is too shiny IMOH And you are right in scribing the fender rear edge. 👌 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModelcarJR Posted May 10 Author Share Posted May 10 Thanks, Lenny! I appreciate your suggestion! After reading your suggestion, I went on a search to see what color I should use. I found a website that talked about rebuilding 1:1 71 Boss Mustangs. It was almost unanimous that they all used SEM Hot Rod Black. So I looked at that color and it is a flat but shiny finish. So I have repainted the hood with Black Primer. Its not as flat as flat black and I think I can shine it up a bit as you suggested to get a slight sheen. Thanks for your help! 😎 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModelcarJR Posted May 11 Author Share Posted May 11 Making slow progress on this on and had a setback. First I repainted the hood with black primer and got a nice sheen with a polishing cloth. I don't have any Ford engine blue and Krylon used to make a Global Blue that was very close but I am out of it and Krylon doesn't make it anymore. So I mixed up my own with some Testors light blue and dark blue and painted it with a brush. Looks OK to me so I'll let it dry a couple of days before handling it. Testors enamel is always sticky it seems. Then I ran into problems. I had ordered some touch-up paint from e-bay and it came today. 1 oz. of paint for $8. It wasn't thinned so I called the number on the package to find out if I could thin it using lacquer. They told me it was a formula that included a clear in the paint and they couldn't guarantee a good result by thinning it. It was not recommended for the 1oz. paints and was only intended to be used for scratches on 1/1 cars applied with a brush in the bottle. So I tried it anyway. The hood edges looked fine and the mirrors painted fine as well using my airbrush. So I painted the body and started noticing popcorn popping up. Paint became very rough and dry looking. I had already finished all the black as well, but into the oven cleaner it went. I have a can of Tamiya Light Blue which I probably should have used in the first place as it looks like Grabber Blue to me. Its only slightly lighter and I don't think I could pick it out the grabber blue from the Tamiya Light blue in a line up. I took it and re-painted the edges of the hood and the mirrors right over the touch-up paint I had already airbrushed on. It looks good to me and hours later it is still looking good. So once the body is out of the oven cleaner, it will get the Tamiya Light Blue. Thanks for looking! 😎 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennyB Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 Sounds like the touch up paint was probably acrylic urethane if it was meant for scratch repair. It would have probably worked with a urethane reducer. But the people who sold it should have known that😖 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModelcarJR Posted May 13 Author Share Posted May 13 Working on the interior and completed the seats and one door panel. The base colors are black on the floor and back and dullcoted gunmetal for a gray interior. Highlighted with silver and burnt iron (shaken, not stirred). I have an old bottle of Model Master metalizer that I used because its thin and dries quickly and makes a good black for the interior with a brush. Its a shame that its not made anymore. I also finished removing the paint from the body. Three times through the oven cleaner, each time scrubbing what I could get off and then back in the oven cleaner. About 12 hours for each application and its finally almost ready to repaint. Two more steps in the process. Sand out with 400 grit sandpaper, a toothpick and the backside of a No 11 blade. Then wash it thoroughly. Then do it again. Now I am ready to repaint, but unfortunately, its been raining today and should rain again tomorrow. I may have to wait a couple days. Here are the pics. Thanks for looking! 😎 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModelcarJR Posted May 13 Author Share Posted May 13 Thanks, Lenny for your comment! I forgot to post a reply with my last post. I wasn't impressed with the two people I talked with about the touch-up paint. I don't think they knew what it was or how to mix it to thin it down. And I don't know much about urethane paint either as I have tried to stay away from it due to its harmful effects. I don't use a mask since I paint outdoors. Thanks again for looking! 😎 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModelcarJR Posted May 14 Author Share Posted May 14 I finished the interior. The decals went on well although you can't see them much in the photos. I thinned down the turn signal lever with my knife and it looks OK to me. Some have said its too big but at least it is there. I didn't apply the Hurst decals on the shifter as you can't see them anyway, A nice exercise in black, gray and silver. Thanks for looking! 😎 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModelcarJR Posted May 14 Author Share Posted May 14 I repainted the body today. I got started about noon, when the humidity was about 60%, and painted the black primer on the sides, interior, cowl area. After a couple of hours i taped it off and painted the blue (I'm going to call it Grabber Blue although it is Tamiya Light Blue). The weather was perfect about 3 PM with about 40% humidity. Two coats of paint and 1 wet coat of Krylon clear lacquer. I'll polish it out tomorrow. I'm also working on the engine. I have the flying valve covers installed to go with the flying alternator and power steering, I think. LOL! Thanks for looking! 😎 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModelcarJR Posted May 15 Author Share Posted May 15 I rubbed out the body today. The first photo shows the paint in my mag light but the other photos are out of the light to show the color a little better. its really darker than light blue and I think matches Grabber Blue pretty well. I am going to try the add the pin stripes by themselves cutting them away from the larger decals. If I am not successful, it will still be OK because in this scale the pinstripes will be hard to see anyway. Thanks for looking! 😎 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Great paint John, what did you use for the blue? Love the interior very sharp! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KWT Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 That is coming together nicely. That blue definitely looks the part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModelcarJR Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 Thanks, Carl and Jeremy! I appreciate your comments! Carl, the paint is Tamiya Light Blue which is not really a light blue but looks more like Grabber Blue to me. Its been a couple of day since I have posted anything but I have been making good progress on the build. The body is foiled, windows and interior are in. I finished the wheels and tires and the tire decals are included in the kit. The engine and chassis are complete and the engine has been detailed with plug wires, a fuel line and heater hoses. Its very tight and I hope I can still get the air cleaner installed properly with the heat riser tube. I must say a word about the chassis. It is very simple but tight assembly and everything fits beautifully. The approach to the rear shocks and stabilizer bar attachment to the rear axle is very simple but much better than historically kits have been. The steering linkage is a solid connection and the tailpipes fit the exhaust manifolds and run the length if the chassis with positive pin placements. Very nicely done, Revell! Now its time to get this one on all fours and finish! Thanks for looking! 😎 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TarheelRick Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 Very nice looking Mustang, and that color is close to Grabber Blue (IMHO). I like the way you did the interior colors. Looking forward to the "Under Glass" photos. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModelcarJR Posted May 23 Author Share Posted May 23 Thanks, Rick! I appreciate your comment! This one is done! the only problem I had was with the rear taillight panel and the rear roll pan. Somehow I managed to knock out the taillight panel with the body on but nothing done in front so it was relatively easy to pull the body off and reattach the rear taillight panel. Then the next time I tried to get the roll pan on, I knocked out the rear taillight panel again with the front complete. So I had to remove the front grill, chin spoiler and bumper to repair the taillight panel. Then, the third time, I knocked out the rear window and had to undo everything again. Finally, I got smart and attached everything in back first and then I completed the front! I had to cut off the top of the roll pan license plate surround in order to get the roll pan to marry up to the bottom of the taillight panel. then everything was flush and the bumper covers the top of the roll pan anyway. I applied most of the decals but of most importance was the pinstripe on the hood and the body sides. All are there and I cut them off the larger decal and applied them so that I didn't have to try to blend a decal with black paint. The main black area is paint. Only the pinstripe is a decal. I think they worked out well with a straight edge and a sharp No 11 bladed knife. Final photos in the "Under Glass" section. Thanks for looking and I hope everyone has a happy Memorial day weekend! 😎 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmk0303 Posted Saturday at 09:00 PM Share Posted Saturday at 09:00 PM Really nice build. Pinstripes look perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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