'70 Ford Torino Cobra - Revell

[CA Whitecloud]

I think I'll try this one.

[CA Whitecloud]

Not in love with this big gap b/w hood and body. What would a skilled modeler do? I can't see a fix that won't be MORE noticeable. I'll live.

 

[CA Whitecloud]

Does the engine have to be blue?

[TNT]

Been wondering about this kit. Thanks for the info.

Maybe after a good coat of primer and a few coats of paint the gap may close up a bit.

Blue engine was factory but i do not see why you can't paint whatever color you want. Just call it custom.

[dwc43]

Yes, it has to be blue. As for the gap, I had to fix that on a Chevelle hood. I needed a flat hood instead of the SS hood. All of the resin and 3d prints were not wide enough. I took the best one and glued a strip off evergreen down the length of the hood on both sides. Then sanded on both sides till I got it to fit with a perfect gap once primer and painted. If you do both sides, it will be uniform and sit in the opening correctly. Won't look right just to fill one side of it. 

Edited July 17, 2024 by dwc43
typo

[Can-Con]

Another vote here for leaving the hood alone.

If you close up the gap you very well may end up with problems with fit after painting, as Tony said. 

[DJMar]

9 hours ago, dwc43 said:

As for the gap, I had to fix that on a Chevelle hood. I needed a flat hood instead of the SS hood. All of the resin and 3d prints were not wide enough. I took the best one and glued a strip off evergreen down the length of the hood on both sides. Then sanded on both sides till I got it to fit with a perfect gap once primer and painted. If you do both sides, it will be uniform and sit in the opening correctly. Won't look right just to fill one side of it. 

Agreed. I did this when adapting the stock, plain hood from the Revellogram '66 El Camino to their '66 Chevelle wagon. The ElCo hood was short in both length & width, so it was strip styrene to the rescue. The back edge was a shade over 1 mm, the 2 sides were about .5 mm. And as DW said, you have to do both sides equally in order to get the hood to sit centered.

I left the pics large so you can see where the strips are glued. It's a little tough because it's white on white but you can see it. It still needs a bit of final tweaking, but it's mostly there after 15 or 20 minutes of work, spread out over a couple of days (had to wait for the glue to dry).

Patience, a good liquid adhesive and a selection of sanding sticks are your best friends here. Go slowly & test fit often. I think the gap you showed on that hood would be a pretty easy fix.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hope this helps.

Edited July 17, 2024 by DJMar

[CA Whitecloud]

13 hours ago, dwc43 said:

Yes, it has to be blue. As for the gap, I had to fix that on a Chevelle hood. I needed a flat hood instead of the SS hood. All of the resin and 3d prints were not wide enough. I took the best one and glued a strip off evergreen down the length of the hood on both sides. Then sanded on both sides till I got it to fit with a perfect gap once primer and painted. If you do both sides, it will be uniform and sit in the opening correctly. Won't look right just to fill one side of it. 

Agreed. I would mod both sides. Oh, and...Blue Schmoo!

Edited July 18, 2024 by CA Whitecloud

[CA Whitecloud]

6 hours ago, DJMar said:

Agreed. I did this when adapting the stock, plain hood from the Revellogram '66 El Camino to their '66 Chevelle wagon. The ElCo hood was short in both length & width, so it was strip styrene to the rescue. The back edge was a shade over 1 mm, the 2 sides were about .5 mm. And as DW said, you have to do both sides equally in order to get the hood to sit centered.

I left the pics large so you can see where the strips are glued. It's a little tough because it's white on white but you can see it. It still needs a bit of final tweaking, but it's mostly there after 15 or 20 minutes of work, spread out over a couple of days (had to wait for the glue to dry).

Patience, a good liquid adhesive and a selection of sanding sticks are your best friends here. Go slowly & test fit often. I think the gap you showed on that hood would be a pretty easy fix.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hope this helps.

Thanks for this. Your work looks nice and clean. I'm leery of the flange/bevel at the base of the WS in matching the curvature.

[dwc43]

9 hours ago, CA Whitecloud said:

Thanks for this. Your work looks nice and clean. I'm leery of the flange/bevel at the base of the WS in matching the curvature.

DJ reminded me when he said he had to add to the rear of the hood for length. I had to add to the Chevelle hood too. I had forgotten about that. The Chevelle hood has this curved lip on the rear of the hood, and it comes to a sharp point on the side and rear edges. This was done on the real car for the hide a way windshield wipers. So, I added to strips of evergreen to the front of the hood to get the length right. On the Chevelle hood the front edge is a v shape, so the strips had to be bent and glued in one side at a time and then sanded down and shaped. It worked out way easier to do it that way than mess with the contours on the rear of the hood. Hope that helps. I thought I had some pics of it, but I don't. Sorry about that. 

[DJMar]

12 hours ago, CA Whitecloud said:

Thanks for this. Your work looks nice and clean. I'm leery of the flange/bevel at the base of the WS in matching the curvature.

I see what you mean. Here are two possible ways to deal with that curve:

1) Use a piece of styrene that is wider then you need, and then cut and sand to match that curve, or

2) Use a dimensionally thinner piece of strip (.015 vs .020 for example) and liquid glue and bend the filler piece to match the curve. You may have to laminate thinner pieces to get the width you need to fill the hood/fender gap. But thin styrene bends pretty easily, even along its length.

Option #1 is how I worked the El Camino hood. There is a dogleg at the front of the hood, and there was no way to bend a piece of styrene into that exact shape without a lot of hair pulling. I used a wider piece of plastic (the hood is 1.5mm thick, IIRC I used a 4mm strip), glued it in place, and then cut the excess and sanded it to shape. You can see it still needs some work, but the idea is the same.

Bonus - since Evergreen styrene is softer than kit plastic, you can use the kit piece as a sanding guide, if you don't get carried away with an aggressive grit.

[CA Whitecloud]

Ok, so...

I was going for this...

Got this...

I'm not loving it, but when you get rattle cans online it can be a roll of the dice. What do you think?

[slusher]

Very nice color!

[sak]

Much better than the orange/red

[DJMar]

I think it's a great color. Not factory stock, of course, but still cool. Nice flake/pearl as well.

Is that Testors Blazing Orange?

[CA Whitecloud]

4 hours ago, DJMar said:

I think it's a great color. Not factory stock, of course, but still cool. Nice flake/pearl as well.

Is that Testors Blazing Orange?

So close, Fiery Orange. More glitter than I was looking for, but it'll fly. Do l clearcoat before decals? Do I rub it out and spray more color? I forget the sequence of events. 

[ModelcarJR]

Looks pretty good from here.  Rustoleum's Extreme Lacquers were Testors One Coat Lacquers previously. So I don't know how many coats you have but one should do it if have complete coverage and are satisfied with the finish. Looks pretty smooth from here but you might want to lightly rub it out with 6000 - 8000 cloths and then give it a coat or two of clear. Or you could clear it now and rub it out with the clear coat on it after, if you are satisfied that the finish is smooth now. I never clear over decals and always apply decals at the end of a build so I don't damage them during the building process. Its up to you but that's what I do. Good luck with the rest of the build! ?

[dwc43]

May not be the color you were going for, but it looks good. Looks like it laid down just right. 

[CA Whitecloud]

Everything was going fine...

Two things though. What is an easy technic to add a little life to the flat black chassis? And, shouldn't there be some kind of bracket piece here?

[CA Whitecloud]

Engine was coming along nicely...

Until the alternator went...!MISSING!

 

[DJMar]

19 minutes ago, CA Whitecloud said:

What is an easy technic to add a little life to the flat black chassis?

I think the simplest thing is to drybrush on a lighter color, usually silver or gray. Personally, I prefer a dark gray so the contrast isn't too jarring. You can also start with the darker gray with an all over drybrushing, then just hit the highlights with a lighter color for a little more depth. You could even throw in a few washes to represent dirt, rust, oil stains, etc..

It's not the "factory correct primer & overspray" method, but it can add a little life to an otherwise solid black chassis.

 

[LennyB]

1 hour ago, CA Whitecloud said:

Everything was going fine...

Two things though. What is an easy technic to add a little life to the flat black chassis? And, shouldn't there be some kind of bracket piece here?

No, there is no bracket there.  Those are just muffler clamps to hold the pipes together. The bracket or hanger, would be on the rear side of the mufflers and then another at the rear of the tailpipe.

You can also add highlights to the chassis by rubbing some of the raised sections with a cloth, such as the frame rails.  It will change the sheen of the black and add some definition 

 

 

[Kenmojr]

Love these Torinos, will look forward to your thread...

[Musclecarbuilder]

On 7/29/2024 at 3:16 PM, CA Whitecloud said:

Everything was going fine...

Two things though. What is an easy technic to add a little life to the flat black chassis? And, shouldn't there be some kind of bracket piece here?

Another thing you could do is paint the brake/fuel lines silver with a toothpick. I like to do that with my box-stock builds. 

[dwc43]

12 hours ago, Musclecarbuilder said:

Another thing you could do is paint the brake/fuel lines silver with a toothpick. I like to do that with my box-stock builds. 

You could also use wrapped guitar string to replace them. It comes in different sizes and looks just like fuel and brake lines with the stone guards wrapped around it.