Randy Kern Posted April 12, 2009 Posted April 12, 2009 90% of the time I find I have to 're-engineer ' the suspension to get the right stance, and that includes lopping off axle stubs and suspension pieces. The only exceptions are the Tamiya, Hasegawa and Fujimi kits. I also just finished the S&S 'Vette racer that needed the header flanges completely chopped off to fit & look good. It won't be seen, and I don't care if it isn't there. A club member once told me every build he does has to have the wheels turn/roll. That's fine, but for me that really limits kit bashing or just swapping wheels & tires.
Randytheroadrunner Posted April 12, 2009 Posted April 12, 2009 Let's put it this way...I don't have too many models that are going to roll away any time soon. lol
bfreez28 Posted April 12, 2009 Posted April 12, 2009 My builds lean towards general appearance, something that looks good on a shelf, not so good under a magnifying glass while comparing it to a reference manual. I dont sweat the small details that wont be seen from 2 feet away. Technically there are alot of things incorrect about my builds so if a shortcut can be made to get the right stance in my car, Ill do it! Im building the new Revell 57 Chevy. I want it to sit low so I cut the rear leaf springs a tad short and glued the front lower control arms right onto the upper frame mount. I even left out the front coil springs. It now sits just how I want it to.
evilone Posted April 12, 2009 Posted April 12, 2009 Herm i guess im guilty as sin.If it don't work after 5 or 10 times then i cut it and make it fit LOL.
roadhawg Posted April 12, 2009 Posted April 12, 2009 Oh, I'm a big-time cheater...if I wasn't, I'd NEVER get anything built!!! Awhile back, I wanted to build a pro-touring '70 Chevelle using some Pegasus wheels. It ended up becoming a model car version of dominos, in that every little thing I changed trying to do it realistically meant TWO more changes to something else. I ended up just getting out the Dremel and grinding till it looked good! And as far as what Luke'57 said about the real ones........I remember the first step in installing brand new headers was beating the ###### out of 'em so they would fit!
Brian Fishburn Posted April 13, 2009 Posted April 13, 2009 Did you have fun? Yes No (check one) If you checked "yes," no matter who you are or whether you worry about mechanical believability or not- YOU WIN!!
Marc @ MPC Motorsports Posted April 13, 2009 Posted April 13, 2009 Did you have fun? Yes No (check one) If you checked "yes," no matter who you are or whether you worry about mechanical believability or not- YOU WIN!! This is the BEST response in this thread. Build for yourself and be sure to have fun doing it. Don't worry about what others may or may not think. If you let go of this, you will have much more fun and hobbies are supposed to be fun, aren't they?
torinobradley Posted April 13, 2009 Posted April 13, 2009 It's called "Cheating" eh? Well, it was the only way that 350 was going to fit in my Vega. Had to get a notched and extended oilpan and pickup to clear the frame and tie rod. Had to run one of the header pipes through the fender well too. Oh, wait, that was my 1:1 scale hot rod that did start when you turned the key... I guess they have been "cheating" for years and not just on little plastic cars (okay, my Vega had lots of plastic and was little but...)
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