Biggu Posted October 28, 2024 Author Posted October 28, 2024 Ok ….. I think I know what I’m going to do here, but want to just throw it out there for sale of conversation……I do know that ‘instructions’ are just some one else’s opinion …. And we aren’t supposed to look at the instructions, but occasionally we have to consult the paperwork to either confirm or deny a part placement. Now , with that said, the instructions not being as clear as they could be (I was going to use a big word like ‘ambiguous’ but I didn’t want to show off?????) the rear motor mount and placement of the engine/transmission……. Most of us ( me included ) would just set the engine on TOP of the molded in motor mounts on the frame….. BUT as I am on this bolt fetish at the moment, I set the engine on top of the mounts to have a look…..but I looked real close to the mounts on the engine and they appear to be very sharp on top… I then dry fitted the engine to the BOTTOM of the frame mounts and see that it looks to my old eyes, the fit looks to be where it should be affixed….. consulting the ‘instructions’ and it appears to me that the little arrow does infact point or could point to tje underside of the frame mounts………. I think that is how I am going to do it in the end as it looks a lot cleaner ……. Thoughts??? 2
Gary Chastain Posted October 29, 2024 Posted October 29, 2024 I would interpret the arrow as going under. ?? 2
Randy D Posted October 29, 2024 Posted October 29, 2024 Now you expect us modelers' to be able to read and interpret drawings???? ? I love all the add on bolt heads, and yes I will copy your airline work so you better do it right! If you don't mind, when I get to it I will contact you for help with some of my CTM pe. Great looking stuff but as you said on your other build, lots of folds with no instruction Randy 1
Biggu Posted October 29, 2024 Author Posted October 29, 2024 On 10/29/2024 at 12:55 AM, Gary Chastain said: I would interpret the arrow as going under. ?? Expand That’s what I was thinking and that was the direction I’m thinking of taking. When the engine is held in place ‘under’ the mount, does look better and a clean fit. I also believe the instructions are trying to say that ……. Thanks for your thoughts, Gary
Biggu Posted October 29, 2024 Author Posted October 29, 2024 On 10/29/2024 at 1:15 AM, Randy D said: Now you expect us modelers' to be able to read and interpret drawings???? ? I love all the add on bolt heads, and yes I will copy your airline work so you better do it right! If you don't mind, when I get to it I will contact you for help with some of my CTM pe. Great looking stuff but as you said on your other build, lots of folds with no instruction Randy Expand I thought you guys would be better with a drawing than technical written works ..???????????….. and feel free to copy anything you see if it can be of any use or help. I will look forward to hearing from you anytime, Randy. I just hope I can be useful to your build. Thanks for checking in on this build……
Jürgen M. Posted October 29, 2024 Posted October 29, 2024 Thanks for the info! Maybe I'll have a look at those! Do they have rivets too? 1
Biggu Posted October 29, 2024 Author Posted October 29, 2024 On 10/29/2024 at 11:43 AM, Jürgen M. said: Thanks for the info! Maybe I'll have a look at those! Do they have rivets too? Expand Rivets is something I haven’t looked into…. I think Meng only has the bolts, but I am happy to be proven wrong, but I think the rivets can be purchased from Archer, but they are fairly pricey and are resin decals rather than individual. Someone prove me wrong please.
RoninUtah Posted October 29, 2024 Posted October 29, 2024 I'd like to something about the rivets on my 60's 352 build as well; I sanded off most of the kit rivets because they were in the wrong places for a pre-Pacemaker cab. I saw something on YouTube about doing them by hand with tiny drops of white glue, but I'm not sure if I can get consistent results with that. At the least, I'll score lines for the cab seams. 1
ShakyCraftsman Posted October 29, 2024 Posted October 29, 2024 As far as I know Archer rivets are the only option, and I'm not sure if they are still available. Ron G 1
Biggu Posted October 29, 2024 Author Posted October 29, 2024 On 10/29/2024 at 5:02 PM, ShakyCraftsman said: As far as I know Archer rivets are the only option, and I'm not sure if they are still available. Ron G Expand www.archertransfers.com I think they are still good to go..... might be worth a try..... 1
Rockford Posted October 29, 2024 Posted October 29, 2024 On the engine mounts the natural thing is for them to sit on the frame ears but the "suggestions" do seem to show it going underneath. If the driveshaft angle looks ok and the manifolds etc... don't clash with the frame rails then maybe you've made a discovery after all these years. Maybe that's why everyone complains about a poor fit. Well done with the bolt heads, my shaky hands would drive me nuts (no pun intended) doing that. 2
Gary Chastain Posted October 30, 2024 Posted October 30, 2024 https://www.sourkrautsmodeltrucks.net/modeltrucks/p/nut-and-bo i knew I had seen brass bolts somewhere, Sourkraut has them. 1
Biggu Posted October 30, 2024 Author Posted October 30, 2024 On 10/29/2024 at 9:34 PM, Rockford said: On the engine mounts the natural thing is for them to sit on the frame ears but the "suggestions" do seem to show it going underneath. If the driveshaft angle looks ok and the manifolds etc... don't clash with the frame rails then maybe you've made a discovery after all these years. Maybe that's why everyone complains about a poor fit. Well done with the bolt heads, my shaky hands would drive me nuts (no pun intended) doing that. Expand You might be right Steve. To me , it does look to be a better fit from under. When the time comes I will really look closely at the fit , but at first blush I would agree it maybe better from under. That would be cool IF by some stoke I have stumbled upon something new ……?? 1
Biggu Posted October 30, 2024 Author Posted October 30, 2024 On 10/30/2024 at 12:11 AM, Gary Chastain said: https://www.sourkrautsmodeltrucks.net/modeltrucks/p/nut-and-bo i knew I had seen brass bolts somewhere, Sourkraut has them. Expand Right on, thanks Gary
Jürgen M. Posted October 30, 2024 Posted October 30, 2024 (edited) Thanks guys. Very interesting! Concerning the engine fit, you might just be right putting it under. I remember building my Pacemaker. I put it above and the shaft almost touched the chassis! Didn't get the idea of putting it under! Good job Jeff! Edited October 30, 2024 by Jürgen M. 1
BK9300 Posted October 30, 2024 Posted October 30, 2024 On 10/28/2024 at 6:24 PM, Biggu said: So… all that stuff that hangs on the frame has to be attached somehow and none of it was welded or super glued on …… bolts are the order of the day, I spent a few minutes and added bolts to the ‘stuff’ that hangs on the frame…. Battery box, cab mounts, air tanks and shifting tower. Also finished bolting the shocks on …. I LOVE Meng bolts. ….. Expand Geez, Jeff, had an off day from the forum and you added a page to your thread - I missed all the work you’ve added since you started the plumbing on Page 4 - looking really good! 1
Biggu Posted October 30, 2024 Author Posted October 30, 2024 On 10/30/2024 at 6:39 AM, BK9300 said: Geez, Jeff, had an off day from the forum and you added a page to your thread - I missed all the work you’ve added since you started the plumbing on Page 4 - looking really good! Expand Thanks Brian. Thats a huge compliment.
Biggu Posted October 30, 2024 Author Posted October 30, 2024 On 10/30/2024 at 6:18 AM, Jürgen M. said: Thanks guys. Very interesting! Concerning the engine fit, you might just be right putting it under. I remember building my Pacemaker. I put it above and the shaft almost touched the chassis! Didn't get the idea of putting it under! Good job Jeff! Expand Thanks JM …. Your experience is good to know. It was MANY years ago I first built this kit. It was the engine mounts on the engine itself that caught my eye and I noticed the moulding was a little sharper on the top of the mount on the engine itself and the other side was a bit soft. Got me to thinking and looking…… as you see in the pics , dry fitting under the frame mount looks pretty good and the ‘instructions’ allude to it going under the frame mount ….. glad you guys are weighing in on this.
Jürgen M. Posted October 30, 2024 Posted October 30, 2024 The instructions often don't Show what's really relevant for building the kit correctly. Especially amt instructions seem to be famous for that! I had a closer look at the instructions you posted and I'm quite sure the arrow goes below! I actually never paid attention to that. Physics would say above because it would fall down otherwise but who says those instructions we're supposed to be logical? 1
Biggu Posted October 30, 2024 Author Posted October 30, 2024 On 10/30/2024 at 2:01 PM, Jürgen M. said: The instructions often don't Show what's really relevant for building the kit correctly. Especially amt instructions seem to be famous for that! I had a closer look at the instructions you posted and I'm quite sure the arrow goes below! I actually never paid attention to that. Physics would say above because it would fall down otherwise but who says those instructions we're supposed to be logical? Expand I tend to agree HM. Also I have been told that ‘instructions’ are just some one else’s opinion anyway ??? and besides…… who looks at the instructikns anyway???
Jürgen M. Posted October 30, 2024 Posted October 30, 2024 Exactly! Real men don't need instructions, they give them! ? 2
Muncie Posted October 30, 2024 Posted October 30, 2024 (edited) I'd say AMT got the mounts a little wrong. With the rear engine mount on the engine under the mount on the frame as you've got it, that appears to give the correct engine centerline angle. For this wheelbase, that's about 3 degrees and down at the rear. Edited October 30, 2024 by Muncie 1
Biggu Posted October 30, 2024 Author Posted October 30, 2024 On 10/30/2024 at 4:57 PM, Muncie said: I'd say AMT got the mounts a little wrong. With the rear engine mount on the engine under the mount on the frame as you've got it, that appears to give the correct engine centerline angle. For this wheelbase, that's about 3 degrees and down at the rear. Expand So, it appears we are on the same page.....I think I am mounting from the bottom, as it goes, but if you look at the picture of the instructions, it could be shown to mount under the frame mount... if one looks really closely, and mulls it over somewhat.... also I think by mounting from the bottom it will give a little more 'fudge' factor for the air compressor at the back of the engine..... thanks for looking and weighing in Steve.... 2
Biggu Posted October 30, 2024 Author Posted October 30, 2024 After a conversation with Steve aka Muncie, I have come to the conclusion that the idea of a 100 gallon fuel tank is a good idea, and I was initially only going to put one tank on, bit the possibility that this could, what used to be referred to as. ‘Line Truck’, meaning a line hauler it should have 2 tanks. So with that thought, it appears I have to source another tank and tank hangers. I modified the Kenworth hangers today as they are somewhat unique and would not really be the style used by a Hayes. Again not much of a mod but I consider this to be more accurate. It will have hold down straps too. Also as this is a ‘work’ truck and not a show truck the tanks will probably be painted just plain silver…. But for now here is a pic of the modified tank hangers…
Gary Chastain Posted October 31, 2024 Posted October 31, 2024 Send me a picture of the tank you are looking for, might have brackets as well. 1
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