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Posted

Small update:  I put on some decals from the California Hauler. I put some decal solution from Testors but I’m not sure if it’s really setting them down because some areas are still not conforming. Once it dries I’ll try another coat of solution to see if I’ll settle down. 

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Posted

Looks nice! 

I always use just water and after application and positioning I use Q-tips, you know, these cotton swabs,to slowly and carefully press out and immediately soak up the water underneath!

It's worked for me the last years maybe It will for you too?

Try it with decals and parts you don't really need anymore first. It takes a bit of practice but you get the hang of it quite fast.

But use high quality cotton swabs, the cheap ones' tips fall apart quickly and you get lots of cotton fluff on your wet decals and nobody wants that! 

Hope that was a bit of use?

Posted

I use Micro Sol and Micro Set decal setting solutions and for me it often takes multiple applications to get the decals to lay down properly. For stubborn decals I'll usually allow a few hours for the solution to dry then reapply. Then I'll let it rest over night and see what it looks like in the morning and plan accordingly.

I hope this helps.

David G.

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Posted

I do all of the above and have even tried white table vinegar with success as well. I also have Mr Mark softener. Sometimes a variety of supplies are needed. 🙄 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Biggu said:

I do all of the above and have even tried white table vinegar with success as well. I also have Mr Mark softener. Sometimes a variety of supplies are needed. 🙄 

Funny you mention vinegar, because the Testors decal set smells exactly like vinegar

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 4/25/2025 at 1:04 AM, Brenton said:

So I have question about the engine. According to the box info, the engine is a 6 cylinder turbocharged Caterpillar. I’m just not sure which specific engine Revell used in this kit. Does anyone know??? I want to look up reference pics. 

 

On 4/25/2025 at 1:21 AM, ShakyCraftsman said:

Hey Brenton 

  The engine in those Revell kits is a Caterpillar 3406A. That was an early engine with the fuel pump to the rear. But most trucks with Cats had the 3406b with the fuel pump up close to the front cover. Here are some pictures of my engines that I have done.

20240218_164836.jpgThis is a 3406A. You can see the fuel pump is to the rear of the air compressor just under the top filter. This is the engine in my 1/24 Kenworth W900 heavy haul tractor.

20240218_164739.jpgThis view is of the other side of the engine. It's not done, still in the works.😁

20250123_180519.jpgThis View shows the turbo side of the 3406b this side is pretty much the same between the two.

20250123_180440.jpgThis view shows the scratch built (stole it from a D8H Cat dozer kit) fuel pump, filter, nose cone (yellow) and I moved the air compressor up so everything fits together. This one is in the works also. It's not dead on accurate, but it's pretty damn close, and under a coat of paint it will look the part.

Ron G 

Yes the engine in the Revell Peterbilt and Kenworth snap kits are Cat 3406A engines with no water to air aftercooler, so it's lower HP engines but with the aftercooler they were available with power ratings up to 425 hp, the A model was also a pre combustion engine when it came in 1973 but the later A models was direct injection.
As Ron says the most noticable difference between the A and B models are where the diesel injection pump is located on the engine as shown in the pictures, the C model wich is partly electronic also have the injection pump at the same location as the B and the final version of the 3406 the E model (there are no D model) is fully electronic and has no injection pump.
The E model also has 3 rocker covers instead of 2 on the earlier A, B and C models and looks more like the later C15 that replaced the 3406, and most were air to air aftercooled, also known as intercooled, with the cooling element in front of the engine radiator.

Edited by Force
Posted

The truck has a good stance and the color choice is also nice here.  Great progress so far. 

I think Alclad is spray only so you wont get a good result without an air brush system.

The decals looked like they attached properly too!  

As people mentioned if softner is used, it is important to not touch when the fluid is doing its magic.  
 

You may be able to press (only press) using a clean cotton swap to help conform the surface while the decals are wet from the solution though. 

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Hey Brenton 

 If you want to chrome something and you don't have an airbrush you can use Revell spray chrome in a can. I know it's kinda pricey at $39.00 + a can, but the results are as close as you are going to get with out an airbrush.

Ron G 

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Edited by ShakyCraftsman
  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, ShakyCraftsman said:

Hey Brenton 

 If you want to chrome something and you don't have an airbrush you can use Revell spray chrome in a can. I know it's kinda pricey at $39.00 + a can, but the results are as close as you are going to get with out an airbrush.

Ron G 

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I’ve looked into this product and have heard good things, but it’s high time I invest in the airbrush. Just gotta do it!

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, cifenet said:

The truck has a good stance and the color choice is also nice here.  Great progress so far. 

I think Alclad is spray only so you wont get a good result without an air brush system.

The decals looked like they attached properly too!  

As people mentioned if softner is used, it is important to not touch when the fluid is doing its magic.  
 

You may be able to press (only press) using a clean cotton swap to help conform the surface while the decals are wet from the solution though. 

Thank you!  Coming from you it’s a wonderful compliment. I’ve seen your work and you definitely inspired me to tackle these trucks. The thing that’s funny is the fact that once you get started on these big rig models they become addictive!

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Posted

On long stripe decals, once positioned, I will make a cut with a new blade along door lines and "tuck" those in the seams. It seems to help lessen the tension along the stripe and looks more realistic to me.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hey Brenton 

 Glad you want to get an airbrush, but that Revell chrome looks just as good or better then Alclad. And it's way easier to do with out screwing it up. Alclad takes alot of practice to get right, just saying.

Ron G 

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, CA Whitecloud said:

On long stripe decals, once positioned, I will make a cut with a new blade along door lines and "tuck" those in the seams. It seems to help lessen the tension along the stripe and looks more realistic to me.

That’s a good suggestion! I’ll keep that in mind on my next build 

Posted
5 hours ago, ShakyCraftsman said:

Hey Brenton 

 Glad you want to get an airbrush, but that Revell chrome looks just as good or better then Alclad. And it's way easier to do with out screwing it up. Alclad takes alot of practice to get right, just saying.

Ron G 

Yeah I noticed it is pretty nice. It seems nicer than the AMT California Hauler kit chrome. 

Posted
8 hours ago, Brenton said:

Yeah I noticed it is pretty nice. It seems nicer than the AMT California Hauler kit chrome. 

Hey Brenton 

 I meant the Revell spray chrome, not the kit chrome.

Ron G 

Posted
3 hours ago, ShakyCraftsman said:

Hey Brenton 

 I meant the Revell spray chrome, not the kit chrome.

Ron G 

Gotcha

  • Like 1
Posted

Small update. I added the cab lights, fuel tanks, and did a little brush work. I added a little weathering to the frame and still working on the engine. 

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  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, ShakyCraftsman said:

She's looking real nice Brenton.

Ron G 

Thanks Ron! Enjoying this build!

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