Class 325 Pumper 3rd time around

[Chariots of Fire]

So far I have built two of these World War II fire pumpers that were done by several fire apparatus manufacturers on Chevy 1.5 ton chassis.  The first went to a Vet in Hawaii while the second one went to a friend of his in Belgium who also happens to have a full size one that is restored.  This time around the build is for my shelf to compliment some of the other WW II rigs that are there.

Here's the start of the build.  I got one more Revell '41 Chevy kit (the cab and engine are identical to what was used to produce the Class 325) and began casting more of the parts that I had done for the other two projects.  The reconfigured hood fits the kit cowl and has separate side pieces.  Tires and wheels are resin castings as well.  The frame has been altered from the pickup frame in the kit utilizing the front end and straightening the rear portion.  I also reinforced it to make it slightly deeper using Evergreen strip stock.  Springs are made of brass strip stock soldered together at the ends.  Separate hangers were made for each spring.  Clips for the springs are made of flattened solder wire.

Now I am working on the axles to get the proper tread width for the front and back.  Then the wheels can be secured to each axle.

In the photos are also the grill guard, made of strip brass and brass wire soldered together.  The parts next to the grill are the components of the steering knuckles for the front axle.  They are made of brass channel and tube stock, again soldered together.  Both are now made up and will show in a couple of future photos.  The aluminum turning is the master for the Barton American pump that will be mounted on the front of the truck.  The mold is ready for a pour so that the pump can be built up.

 

[Gary Chastain]

Will be watching

[Chariots of Fire]

Much of the hard stuff chassis work is done now.  Wheels are mounted on the axles but can be removed for painting.  3D printed U-joint ends were mated with brass tubing and attached.  The one connecting the transmission to the transfer case is loose for final fitting.  The front axle steers.  The tie rod was made of 1/16" tubing and smaller solid brass rod.  As with the other builds, the wheels were drilled for 6 lug nuts using wire and hex beads.  Much more realistic than the cast in place ones that can sometimes be difficult to cast without bubbles or holes.  Locking rims for the tires need to be cast as well for the rear tire set.

[BK9300]

Really like the detail, Charles - looks very sturdy, too.  I need to improve in that area of my suspensions.

[Chariots of Fire]

1 hour ago, BK9300 said:

Really like the detail, Charles - looks very sturdy, too.  I need to improve in that area of my suspensions.

It's pretty rugged once everything is in place.  I do a lot of it with pins in addition to the glue so things don't have a tendency to come off during handling.

[Scott Eriksen]

Those leaf springs are beautiful!!

[hct728(Bob)]

Amazing how much detail you replicate on the chassis!  It's a shame to have to paint it, never mind put the fenders over it, LOL

[Chariots of Fire]

59 minutes ago, hct728(Bob) said:

Amazing how much detail you replicate on the chassis!  It's a shame to have to paint it, never mind put the fenders over it, LOL

More to go, Bob.  Got the brake lines in place along with the main canister and master cylinder.  Working on the gas tank shape and details to put it in place.  Will have to move the drive shaft from the transfer case toward the rear differential down a bit to get it fit into position.  I think it will improve the look as well.

[Chariots of Fire]

Got a bit more done.  Engine detail has been started.  The plugs were drilled out and brass tubing was inserted.  These will be painted white for the ceramic of the plugs.  The distributor was also drilled out for the wiring.  Additional details were added to the frame including brake lines, fuel tank, front shocks, and steering arm and pitman.  The cab has been set on the frame and is held in place with small screws that project from the frame cross members into the floorboard.  With that set the fender locations can be determined.  The cab can come off for painting and I still have to open the doors.

[Gary Chastain]

Nice work Charles

[hct728(Bob)]

Wow that suspension looks like a fine watchworks! Neat idea on the spark plugs too

Just thinking, since every joint moves I'm wondering how to pin parts together and peen over the pin on the opposite end or do we just CA glue a hex bead on to hold it in place 

[Chariots of Fire]

23 hours ago, hct728(Bob) said:

Wow that suspension looks like a fine watchworks! Neat idea on the spark plugs too

Just thinking, since every joint moves I'm wondering how to pin parts together and peen over the pin on the opposite end or do we just CA glue a hex bead on to hold it in place 

A little CA between the hex bead and the wire hold all in place pretty well.  In other places that need to move I pinch the end of the wire with some flat pliers so that it can't pull out of the hole.