Lindberg's '53 Ford - following the instructions

[NOBLNG]

Nice work so far Jim.👍 Those door handles and window cranks are pretty decent looking as is. I would just paint them with Molotow after doing the door cards. 

[customline]

1 hour ago, bill-e-boy said:

Dont forget this is an OOB build. You want fine detailing like piping - stretch some sprue that came in the kit - then chrome it with a Molotow pen before glueing down

At least the door cards are separate and can be easily deatailed. I have cut off things like arm rests before and then detailed the cards then glued them back on after detailing them - still OOB

 

Yup. I'm gonna break out some fresh chisel blades and get that stuff out of the way so I can mask it.

[customline]

1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

Nice work so far Jim.👍 Those door handles and window cranks are pretty decent looking as is. I would just paint them with Molotow after doing the door cards. 

Yes indeed, Greg, the hardware is in high relief and I expect I can remove them and, hopefully, re-use them. Plan B is making Greg handles 😉

[customline]

Yay! Looks like I won't be using Greg's handle and crank technology this time (unless I lose one). 

 

this makes masking a lot easier.  

And now....the inspiration. I like this body style in this color combo. The roof, I believe, is "Snowshoe White".  I have some left-over "Corinthian White" that will be close enough. I'm waiting on MCW now for the "Glacier Blue". 

[slusher]

I like your color choice. I have always wanted to build this kit"..

 

[Kenmojr]

Looking great so far. Keep up the fantastic work...

[customline]

7 hours ago, Kenmojr said:

Looking great so far. Keep up the fantastic work...

Thanks, Ken. I shall try but it's all up-hill these days. 😣

[customline]

Interior has progressed a bit today.  I had to check out the new paint 🤓.  I thought I would see what the Tamiya white pearl looked like (the Poly version) so I put it on the white areas of the seats and door panels. Later, I masked it out and shot the blue. BE ADVISED !  The Poly paint does not stick well to Tamiya fine white primer. It will peel off in sheets.  After discovering this, I downshifted to second and started removing the masking tape vehhhhhhhry carefully 😬.  Thanks for checking in 🖖

The blue is MCW lacquer in the factory correct "Glacier Blue".

The roof got painted too. MCW lacquer, Ford's "Corinthian White", a close facsimile. 

 

Edited July 4 by customline

[meechum68]

Looking great! 

I think I have this kit in my stash! I like the color choices!! 

 

[customline]

24 minutes ago, meechum68 said:

Looking great! 

I think I have this kit in my stash! I like the color choices!! 

 

That grayish blue is not the best color for this car but it's a personal favorite of mine. But I did get a bottle of "Coral Mist" to paint another one of these.  It's very light. 

[LennyB]

Jim, appears the downshifting got you through the next corner.  Are you going to put a clear over this to keep it there?

[customline]

1 hour ago, LennyB said:

Jim, appears the downshifting got you through the next corner.  Are you going to put a clear over this to keep it there?

I don't know if it will help to keep it there but yes, a satin clear. Once it's inside the body, it should be safe from harm. Maybe it all peels off in a few days and I throw it against the wall. I dunno, Len. I took a chance.  If I have to strip it, it probably won't take much. 🥴

[meechum68]

2 hours ago, customline said:

I don't know if it will help to keep it there but yes, a satin clear. Once it's inside the body, it should be safe from harm. Maybe it all peels off in a few days and I throw it against the wall. I dunno, Len. I took a chance.  If I have to strip it, it probably won't take much. 🥴

If it peels, do a little bit of yellow aging on the windows, and call it sun baked!  

Growing up I had a neighbor that had a 56 Chevy in his yard, he kept it trimmed up around but the interior was sun baked to hell, and you could see how it was peeling apart, which your comment made me think of that car. 

[customline]

On 7/4/2025 at 11:53 AM, meechum68 said:

If it peels, do a little bit of yellow aging on the windows, and call it sun baked!  

Growing up I had a neighbor that had a 56 Chevy in his yard, he kept it trimmed up around but the interior was sun baked to hell, and you could see how it was peeling apart, which your comment made me think of that car. 

I think it's going to be OK, Michael.  I did more mask and paint today and it's all good. 

Edited July 5 by customline

[RJL]

On 6/24/2025 at 10:43 AM, customline said:

As I was puttering around today I thought I would check the exhaust pipe connection and sure enough, they don't meet.  Something I did?  Nope. I followed the instructions 😉

I corrected this indignity with a super-ingenious solution.  Good thing I pre-drilled the exhaust pipe inlet.   Some .020 brass inserted helps to line things up. A tiny bit of surgery to the frame at the firewall contact points was performed to get the body to settle down. I believe there is a very slight twist in the frame or the body because the right side of the fender to splash apron contact points won't quite meet. I have mocked this up many times and I'm sure I can resolve the issue at final assembly. Maybe. 🤨

It was this or just live with it. 😕

The rear shocks were painted with a brush and installed by well.....uh....forcing? them in 🙂.

The tail pipe, naturally, interfered with the shock install so it had to be removed and bent into a more friendly configuration. 

As much as I try, I can't spot some of these things ahead of time. No biggie though.  Below is the engine front mount (arrow) and the contact point on the frame (circled).  Two contact points. One under the crank pin and one under the transmission tail shaft.  When your engine has a single mount in the front, you need two at the rear, do you not?  Later 🥴.

 

[RJL]

I think one of your rear shocks is upside down.

[customline]

15 hours ago, RJL said:

I think one of your rear shocks is upside down.

Yeah, I knew that. 🥴. Glad I didn't glue them in (can't complain about the fit 🙂.)  I've got a lot of stuff like that I need to do. Thanks for the reminder, Russ.

[espo]

16 hours ago, RJL said:

I think one of your rear shocks is upside down.

Only on one side. 

[customline]

6 hours ago, espo said:

Only on one side. 

Well he DID say ONE of the rear shocks...OK. OK, I'll fix it!😬

[customline]

How do I know if I turn one around, they won't both be upside-down, huh? 🙃

[customline]

Here's where we're at today - I polished out the roof and I've been fiddling with the dash, with mixed results. I hate this dash. It's kinda weird and the '54 and '55 were strange too.  Anyway, here's some mock-ups for your curiosity 🤔

I want to show what a great fit of interior assembly to the body.  I went off script with the package shelf. They show it gluing to the body. I didn't think it was a good idea. I glued it to the back seat. I was extremely careful with the assembly of the interior.  The glazed body is supposed to be dropped over everything else. Everything depends on the interior. It has positive fit elements molded into the interior floor and the chassis. They fit together perfectly. But there are problems.  The chassis has a slight upward bow in the middle that is messing with the fit of the front fender to splash pan. It's gonna need a clamp.  I wish I had spotted the warp before I put it together. Note to self:  oh....forget it.

The things I am very happy about are the great fit of interior to body and the fit of the firewall to the body. The firewall is a glued-on part of the interior. It is a very precise fit and a lot depends on it.  So far, so good but I must have goofed on the front suspension because the right front hits the splash pan which is integral to the chassis.  

The kit has some fit issues but it goes both ways so it is basically a pretty decent kit.  Thanks for the drive-by 😎

[customline]

In my previous post I mentioned the warped chassis issue. I decided to tackle that today. It was way too late in the game to heat it and bend it so what I did was secure the front of the interior (the firewall) to the inner fender/radiator support assembly which has been glued to the frame previously. I added some heavy members for reinforcement and inserted brass pins for extra security. The first pic shows the firewall bonded to the inner fenders with some Evergreen added. Notice the angle of the interior tub to the chassis.

Here it is with pin in place. The pins go through the inner fender panels and a bit of s g black hides it.

 Evergreen was welded to the chassis in the rear to get a good base for a strong attachment. 

Using the leverage of the tub at the rear to bring the assemblies together, and then, under tension of the rubber band I then bonded the styrene strips

It worked... but not 100%.  The left side came together and there is a smaller gap on the right but it needs a pretty good squeeze to get contact. If I was doing a "beater" I'd just leave it hang.

Oh...and.....

There now. Both upside-down.  😂

During the work, the steering box mysteriously became detached (sure, now it falls out.)  I had a dandy time with that.  It made the right front Firestone breaking off pretty tame in comparison. A good time was had by all.

 

 

Edited July 8 by customline