Rolls-Royce No Chemicals, No Paint, No Harmful Glues

[Anglia105E]

Both of the sill mouldings have been re-chromed and these are being allowed to dry overnight, before removing the blue masking tape . . .

I would like to get the window glass in place pretty soon, so the body needs to be polished completely prior to fitting the windows.

David

[BERT100]

Nice to see your progress re:  the chrome.  Good results useing the hand sanitizer. 

[Anglia105E]

10 hours ago, BERT100 said:

Nice to see your progress re:  the chrome.  Good results useing the hand sanitizer. 

Always good to make progress Steve . . . I was pleasantly surprised to see the hand sanitizer work so well, especially when 100% Isopropyl Alcohol did not seem to work in a previous attempt . . . It does look like the silver finish of this Sharpie is easily rubbed off, so I must handle the body with care when carrying out other tasks, such as polishing for example. Of course, with hindsight, I should have polished first and then done the silvering / chroming afterwards.

David

[Anglia105E]

The sill mouldings have turned out quite nicely, and I spotted a grey patch on the beige headlining on the underside of the roof, so this was overpainted with some ' Earth Balance ' emulsion . . . I also used some grey emulsion paint on the rear window seal. Over the years I have seen model builders who have painted the rear window surround on the outside with chrome, but this is not correct and it should be a grey rubber seal.

David

[MarkJ]

Wow, every time I look at this build it looks better and better. Now what exactly is the year and model of this Rolls Royce and various particulars about it, like engine type and size, and anything else you would like to share and also what scale is this model? You might have already covered this but I'm too lazy to go back and find it. 

Mark.

[Anglia105E]

2 hours ago, MarkJ said:

Wow, every time I look at this build it looks better and better. Now what exactly is the year and model of this Rolls Royce and various particulars about it, like engine type and size, and anything else you would like to share and also what scale is this model? You might have already covered this but I'm too lazy to go back and find it. 

Mark.

Okay here are the details Mark . . . The actual car is a 1957 Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud that was supplied new in 1957 to Bernard Dixon, by the London dealership Jack Barclay, and the registration number was BD 12, with the chassis number SDD54 . . . The car was finished in black, the engine was a 4.9 litre straight six (299 cubic inches), and this car remained in the ownership of Bernard Dixon from 1957 to 1959. The car appeared in a famous film " The Fast Lady " in 1962, by which time the registration plate had been changed to 200 DYO following change of ownership. This Silver Cloud later found a new owner, who changed the paint scheme to black over gold two-tone and fitted a Webasto sunroof that covered the whole roof area . . . As regards my model version of this car, this one is a 1:24 scale kit that uses parts from both the Minicraft version of the kit and also the Revell version, as well as the Entex kit. The kit was originally produced by Hubley in the US, and  then Entex, Academy and Masterkit of Brazil . . . It was Hubley who produced the first promo version of the Silver Cloud II in 1959.

David

[MarkJ]

6 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

Okay here are the details Mark . . . The actual car is a 1957 Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud that was supplied new in 1957 to Bernard Dixon, by the London dealership Jack Barclay, and the registration number was BD 12, with the chassis number SDD54 . . . The car was finished in black, the engine was a 4.9 litre straight six (299 cubic inches), and this car remained in the ownership of Bernard Dixon from 1957 to 1959. The car appeared in a famous film " The Fast Lady " in 1962, by which time the registration plate had been changed to 200 DYO following change of ownership. This Silver Cloud later found a new owner, who changed the paint scheme to black over gold two-tone and fitted a Webasto sunroof that covered the whole roof area . . . As regards my model version of this car, this one is a 1:24 scale kit that uses parts from both the Minicraft version of the kit and also the Revell version, as well as the Entex kit. The kit was originally produced by Hubley in the US, and  then Entex, Academy and Masterkit of Brazil . . . It was Hubley who produced the first promo version of the Silver Cloud II in 1959.

David

Thanks for the info. I like that the basic Rolls Royce shape does not change over the years. Just about anybody can see a Rolls Royce and know that it is a Rolls Royce as long as it's like the one you are building here. 

Mark

[Anglia105E]

This evening I removed the radiator grille shell and bonnet (hood) panels from the test body and then test fitted them to the actual build body. The radiator grille shell had been mounted using PVA glue, and to my surprise it required quite a bit of force to lever the part away from the front of the body shell.

As you can see from the following series of photos, the four recessed holes that are provided to mount the radiator grille shell were not fully drilled through on the body, so I pushed through the plastic with a small round file . . . Once the radiator grille was mounted using a Bostik glue dot, the two bonnet panels were placed into their hinge sockets. These parts seem to be a good fit, with no issues that I can see. The radiator shell serves to hold the bonnet panels in place.

I think the Silver Cloud model looks pretty good at this stage as a mock up only . . .

David

[johnyrotten]

Definitely coming together nicely David.

[Anglia105E]

1 hour ago, johnyrotten said:

Definitely coming together nicely David.

Thanks a lot John . . .

David

[David G.]

Impressive work with the Sharpie pens! The chrome ink looks much better on the car than I thought it would. I'll have to keep this method in mind if I need an alternative source for chrome treatments.

Thank you for taking the time to share it with us.

The build is coming along quite well. Given the quality of the kit itself, you have it looking much better that it has a right to.

David G.

[Anglia105E]

10 minutes ago, David G. said:

Impressive work with the Sharpie pens! The chrome ink looks much better on the car than I thought it would. I'll have to keep this method in mind if I need an alternative source for chrome treatments.

Thank you for taking the time to share it with us.

The build is coming along quite well. Given the quality of the kit itself, you have it looking much better that it has a right to.

David G.

The silver Sharpie chrome ink does have a nice realistic appearance, but the only problem seems to be that the surface of the dried ink is easily smudged and rubbed off. This is even more delicate than the Molotow Liquid Chrome ink in terms of handling . . . I don't think the areas that have been Sharpie'd will ever be safe to handle without smudging. Even worse, is that when I have touched the silver and not realised, then I go and create silver marks on the polished black bodywork with my fingers, which looks terrible. I think these marks will polish off, although not easily. My guess is that the hand sanitiser is keeping the ink from ever drying out completely, although it does a good job of getting the pen to flow from the nib.

David W.

 

[Anglia105E]

Noticed today that the chrome tailpipe on the exhaust system had fallen off. Fortunately the tailpipe was on my work table !  Also, the BMF had come off the cotton bud stalk, so I shall redo this shortly but using silver Sharpie instead of BMF . . . The tailpipe with its locating pin is glued back in place, using PVA glue.

I measured and cut out the front and rear carpets for the interior from grey felt material. These felt carpets are held in place with PVA glue also.

Moving on to the rear window glass, I cleaned up the the thin clear plastic film and then used Crystal Clear white glue to hold it in position on the inside of the car. I placed a piece of metal rod on top of the rear window to help keep it in place while the glue sets overnight . . .

David