David G. Posted October 9 Author Posted October 9 On 10/7/2025 at 7:27 PM, slusher said: Coming along nicely David! Thank you Carl. On 10/7/2025 at 7:50 PM, FoMoCo66 said: Love the yellow! This things gonna be cool. Are you planning on lowering it? I just think it would look great all around if it was lowered so that the wheels had just a tiny gap inbetween the fenders. One way I would do that is a drop front axle (and maybe even a quick change out back to handle the power 😉). Also, have you considered getting some surf boards to stick out the back? Thank you Elliot. I've already lowered the back a little and I think the front will come down a little too once the front axle is properly in place. And I am currently considering a rear axle swap; mainly so I can have the option of a shorter driveshaft. Actually, I swiped the boards from the Surf Shark. You're three for three so yeah, I guess you can see where this build is going.  On 10/7/2025 at 8:31 PM, Kenmojr said: Nice work.... Thank you Ken. =D- 2
David G. Posted October 12 Author Posted October 12 Hello Everybody! The quest for a suitable engine for the Woody continues. This time I'll try the Chrysler Max Wedge from AMT's '49 Mercury. Removal of the automatic transmission is the first step.  It looks like a good match between the Woody's transmission and the Mercury's engine.  Since I plan on displaying this model without a hood I want to add a little extra detail to it. Here I'm fabricating a bracket to support the alternator.  With the alternator bracket in place, it's time to move on to other things.  When fitting the transmission I discovered that cutting off the old one left a gap near the top of the engine block. I cut and glued in some scrap styrene to fill it.  Unfortunately, once the fan belts and fan are added, there's not enough room between the firewall and radiator for this engine. In its proper position, the engine barely clears the thinner custom fire wall, and the fan is clearly intruding into the radiator space. Fortunately, I do have other options.  I'm looking at the T-Bird engine from AMT's '60 Starliner. Which is the one I originally wanted for this build. So since I'll be coming full circle on this, maybe it'll be the one. 😕 As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to share any comments or questions you may have. David G. 1
David G. Posted Sunday at 01:30 PM Author Posted Sunday at 01:30 PM Hello Everybody! I'm still working on finding a suitable custom engine for this thing. I really want a Thunderbird engine and it looks like I may have found one that I can use! After test fitting a number of parts-box and glue-bomb engines I found this! It's from an AMT '57 T-Bird glue-bomb. Â Similar in size to the kit-supplied custom flathead, it looks like it might be a good fit. Â The test fit looks good! Â It even clears the original kit firewall. Let's clean it up and get to work! Â As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment. David G. Â 5
espo Posted Sunday at 09:09 PM Posted Sunday at 09:09 PM Ford in a Ford + the T-Bird valve covers. Â
David G. Posted Monday at 11:35 AM Author Posted Monday at 11:35 AM 21 hours ago, FoMoCo66 said: Oh yeah, Y block power baby! It just seems right, doesn't it?  14 hours ago, espo said: Ford in a Ford + the T-Bird valve covers.  I'm hoping I can make this one work. Thanks for the encouragement. =D- 1
Alan Barton Posted 8 hours ago Posted 8 hours ago David, as the owner of a real Model A Roadster hot rod I can tell you that they have an incredibly tight engine bay. And as it turns out, there is not a huge amount of difference in the dimensions of a modern V8 motor - Ford Windsor engines are on the small size and big block Chevies and Hemis are on the large size but that is not really the problem - the problem is the firewall. If it is not too late, I would remove the white plastic firewall shown here and build a new one that is recessed about 3/16" behind the edge of the firewall opening. This will make the world of difference to your project. Referring back to my real rod, with a small block Chevy, I had to recess the lower half of the stock firewall by four inches to clear the trans and rear of the block and heads. Even then, I had to cut an opening into the top half of the firewall to allow removal of the distributor (which I found out the first time I went to remove the distributor!) The last thing you want to do is move the radiator and grille shell forward - this totally destroys the tight compact proportions that a Model A is famous for. I like where your project is going - recess that firewall and a lot of your pain will disappear! Cheers Alan 2
David G. Posted 5 hours ago Author Posted 5 hours ago 2 hours ago, Alan Barton 2 said: David, as the owner of a real Model A Roadster hot rod I can tell you that they have an incredibly tight engine bay. And as it turns out, there is not a huge amount of difference in the dimensions of a modern V8 motor - Ford Windsor engines are on the small size and big block Chevies and Hemis are on the large size but that is not really the problem - the problem is the firewall. If it is not too late, I would remove the white plastic firewall shown here and build a new one that is recessed about 3/16" behind the edge of the firewall opening. This will make the world of difference to your project. Referring back to my real rod, with a small block Chevy, I had to recess the lower half of the stock firewall by four inches to clear the trans and rear of the block and heads. Even then, I had to cut an opening into the top half of the firewall to allow removal of the distributor (which I found out the first time I went to remove the distributor!) The last thing you want to do is move the radiator and grille shell forward - this totally destroys the tight compact proportions that a Model A is famous for. I like where your project is going - recess that firewall and a lot of your pain will disappear! Cheers Alan Thank you so much for the tip Alan! That's is one modification that I hadn't considered, at least not in that way. I do have a thinner, custom firewall left over from AMT's '32 Victoria, I'll try that one first. If that one doesn't work I'll see what I can do to fabricate a custom piece and install it from the inside of the body shell. It'll be no trouble removing the one that's there now as I just have it tacked in for the test fit with PVA. I do value your insight regarding this issue. Thanks again Alan!
FoMoCo66 Posted 5 hours ago Posted 5 hours ago I fully agree with Alan, I would also consider using one out of a Revell 32, they are all recessed firewalls but they might need trimming.
Alan Barton Posted 5 hours ago Posted 5 hours ago No worries, Dave, happy to help. Trust me, any firewall you glue to the outside of the body will be too thick. The only solution is to go back inside the cowl to give the engine the clearance that it needs. My water pump pulley on a short water pump is bare;y and inch or so from the radiator and the back of the engine is still under the cowl. Cheers Alan
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