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Posted

So the calipers are finished.  I added the rigid fluid line and the brake pads. I also started the rack and pinion.  I'm aiming at a working rack but I've never modeled one before. It will be interesting to see if I can pull it off. 

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  • Like 3
Posted

Finished the wheels today and the front axel. I wanted to find an easy way to remove the wheels. My first idea was to do like i did with the Hydra, to use the center cap as a screw. But then I thought of another idea,  magnets.  I'll inbed 2 magnets in the each hubs and 2 in each wheels.  I'll test it before going final with it.

The finished wheel

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Vs the real one

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The magnet idea

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  • Like 2
Posted

I've been doing some printing test these past few days.  I have a working rack and pinion with working rod ends. I still need to refine it here and there but it's close. And I've ordered a miniature steel universal joint (5$ on Temu) to replace the printed ones as it will probably be a weak point in the steering mecanism. 

All components in the rack and pinion 

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And assembled 

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Working rod end with rubber booth (the boot comes from an RC boat I think)

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I also printed a complete wheel assembly,  I am very pleased with the result.  I tested my magnet idea to hold the wheel to the rotor and it works very well. It will be a breeze to remove the wheels to show the suspension. 

All components in 1 wheel 

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And assembled 

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And the real one

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  • Like 5
Posted

It was noted to me (thank you Messer) that I made a major typo on the tire. It's should be Pirelli, not Pirelle. Error fixed ! Sorry to all you Pirelli fans and to all english teachers.

Posted
7 hours ago, François said:

It was noted to me (thank you Messer) that I made a major typo on the tire. It's should be Pirelli, not Pirelle. Error fixed ! Sorry to all you Pirelli fans and to all english teachers.

I just thought you were trying to avoid any copyright infringement issues!

Posted (edited)

Very interesting thread, well worth following.

I find the 3D CAD that Francois does for his models is amazing.

Edited by Bugatti Fan
  • Like 1
Posted

Sorry Messer but the grease fitting don't work.  I did put grease on the rack before assembly. 

Before going further with the frame and rear suspension 3d modeling, I'm test printing the front suspension components.  I'm even trying to print the coil spring.  I don't expect it to work but I'm curious.  

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  • Like 5
Posted

Probably, i did print some a few weeks ago for a 1/25 vega and they worked ok but again,  it was just to try.

Posted

History is full of things that the inventor was told it wouldn't work, did it anyway, worked and the naysayers had to eat a shoe (looking for a clean shoe already).

  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)

Ok, so here's where I'm at. 

I test printed the drivers side suspension components along with the from portion of the frame.  Everything went together fairly easily,  didn't have to make many modifications.  I did have to hide a secondary compression spring inside the shock absorber since the printed coil spring is too weak. I'll probably end up using real springs instead of the printed ones. I just need to find the correct size.  Remember, this is only a mockup  so nothing is sanded or finished.  I just wanted to confirm that the geometry was ok.

I also painted a wheel to see what it looks like but again,  only a mockup.  I didn't paint the ring yet since i'm out of chrome paint. I ordered a new type of chrome paint from Green Stuff, apparently, it's more touch resistant then the revell. I was able to confirm that using 2 magnets to hold the wheel in place is a good idea. 

Here are some pictures 

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And some videos 

 

Edited by François
  • Like 7
Posted

Wonderful recreation of all that real world engineering, Francis.  The magnets are a great solution to display the suspension detail.

Posted

Wow this is some amazing stuff. I really like the magnet idea for display purposes, real easy to put some different wheels on or put on jackstands and remove a wheel or whatever!

What sort of 3D printer produces these results? I'm not new to modelling but I'm pretty ignorant of where 3D printing is these days. I'm a newer user of these boards and all the 3D printed stuff I see is really intriguing.

Posted
54 minutes ago, dphipps said:

Wow this is some amazing stuff. I really like the magnet idea for display purposes, real easy to put some different wheels on or put on jackstands and remove a wheel or whatever!

What sort of 3D printer produces these results? I'm not new to modelling but I'm pretty ignorant of where 3D printing is these days. I'm a newer user of these boards and all the 3D printed stuff I see is really intriguing.

Dphipps, the magnet idea is intended exactly as you described it. Even if everything on my models work (from steering to motor to drive train) they are only for display and always on a stand. 

As for the printing,  I use the Anycubic M5 resin printer. It's a 12k printer so the results are pretty good but I'm starting to look for something new. I see that there are 16k printers out there. We'll see...

  • Like 1
Posted

I've been busy 3d modeling the last 2 days. The frame is pretty much finished,  all that is left to do is to split it in printable sections. Probably 3.  I also started on the rear suspension,  I have the lever shock done and am trying to do the swing arms. These are very complex parts with many planes and axes, not one being square or parallel to another.  I'll figure it out eventually. 

The finished frame model

FRAME1(1).jpg.0dbd5678f1b827f81318985be7e03cec.jpg

compared to  a real frame

FRAME2.jpg.e226b2533eb1d0f88c0d0ec9b5ba3aa4.jpg

Rear suspension bits

REAR2.jpg.9adf879579630d55e2ff78d11651e79f.jpg

Vs real bits

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And an overall view 

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Compared to the resl thing (not mine)

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  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

Are you looking at the newer printers to try to get better quality, or a bigger print bed? The reason I ask is because if you're wanting better print quality, just make your layer height smaller. I printed these 1/25 scale tires that I modeled from my real car and then printed them at a .01 mm layer height. Granted, your prints don't need to print nearly that detailed because of the scale, but you get the idea.

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Edited by Unatural
  • Like 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, Unatural said:

Are you looking at the newer printers to try to get better quality, or a bigger print bed? The reason I ask is because if you're wanting better print quality, just make your layer height smaller. I printed these 1/25 scale tires that I modeled from my real car and then printed them at a .01 mm layer height. Granted, your prints don't need to print nearly that detailed because of the scale, but you get the idea.

IMG_8259.jpg

RenderedImage.JPG

Unatural, it's actually for both reasons I'm looking. I already went through 1 LCD screen and ever since I changed it, I find that it doesn't print as good as it used to. I often tried to print at a thinner layer height (25um) but never got good results and frankly,  my prints are fine at 50um. I know they  could  be better but like you said, at the scales I work with... l could really use a larger print volume though.

I'm looking at the Uniformation GK3 16k with the T screw. Does anyone now this printer?

  • Like 2

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