Tamiya 66' VW Beetle 1300 - Fitment Issues

[Badge73]

Hey Crew, anyone experience this issue with this particular kit? I have had to fix these sorts of things before but I bought this specific kit because of all the good reviews on it. How would you fix primarily the rear end trunk fitment/gap? Hood as well....

[stitchdup]

I usually file a little from the body at the rear. The front doesn't look bad and once its painted it will have a better fit anyway, you just need to be sure the edge clears once the hinges are on. If they dont you'll need to bevel the rear edge of the front hood for clearance

[sidcharles]

you might want to glue a strip of styrene on edges of the body & panels after getting an approximate 90 degree surface. file or sand the the shim to hood/ trunk lid thickness, and only then start scribing it to the body.

do the vertical [wall thickness] work first, and then get the parts to mate correctly in the horizontal plane. if you do it bass/ ackwards, you run the risk of making the panel too short..

the operative word if "kit". by nature it will take energy and patience to make it look good.

become One with the styrene.

 

[peteski]

I have couple of those kits but haven't tried to build them yet. That doesn't look like a typical Tamiya kit fitment problem.  Is this the original release of that kit, or a newer release (assuming there were multiple runs)?

The gaps seem uneven, almost as of there was flash in the openings.  Have you done anything to either the hood/trunk or to the body openings, or all the parts are untouched kit parts?

[Ace-Garageguy]

The worst issue at the rear appears to be contact on the left end of opening. It's also apparent that the bottom of the engine lid is kicked to the right as a result.

I'd start by lightly filing the body where the contact is, A LITTLE AT A TIME, being sure to maintain smooth curves everywhere. 

Look...think...file...fit...look...think...file...fit...until it's right.

The main issue on the front lid is the two divots towards the ends of the shut line.

I'd glue in small bits of .010" strip styrene, let it dry thoroughly, and again VERY CAREFULLY file to shape until the gap is consistent all the way across.

In general: LOOK at what the problem is and think through what needs to be done, then do it, and keep looking and thinking as you go.

        

[mcs1056]

See? Now you MADE me go upstairs to look. My engine cover fits better and my front cover appears similar. These pis are after sanding off the sprue nubs, but doing nothing else. 

[peteski]

Why not just file either the offending edges on the lid or the  body openings in those areas?  The change in size of the lids or the openings will be tiny - probably not noticeable.  I would have to find and dig out my models to see what this is all about. It just looks odd for Tamiya.

EDIT: Mike just posted what he found.  I guess even Tamiya can have fitment problems like this.

Edited November 15 by peteski

[Trainwreck]

It looks to me as though the cowl is misshapen at both ends and would be the first thing I addressed.

I would add a strip to the front and rear cowl and slowly sand it to the shape of the mating pieces. (hood and trunk)

[Ace-Garageguy]

10 minutes ago, Trainwreck said:

It looks to me as though the cowl is misshapen at both ends and would be the first thing I addressed.

I would add a strip to the front and rear cowl and slowly sand it to the shape of the mating pieces. (hood and trunk)

It's important to differentiate "sanding" from "filing" here.

Modelers who don't have a lot of experience with making things fit properly can get into trouble trying to correct fitment issues with sandpaper, as it can be difficult to limit the area of material removal to exactly where it needs to be.

Using metal 'jewelers' files, on the other hand, gives much more precise control. 

Once the shapes are quite close, the curves are easily blended with something like a disposable nail file, and finished up with the appropriate grits of sandpaper.

[Trainwreck]

10 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

It's important to differentiate "sanding" from "filing" here.

Modelers who don't have a lot of experience with making things fit properly can get into trouble trying to correct fitment issues with sandpaper, as it can be difficult to limit the area of material removal to exactly where it needs to be.

Using metal 'jewelers' files, on the other hand, gives much more precise control. 

Once the shapes are quite close, the curves are easily blended with something like a disposable nail file, and finished up with the appropriate grits of sandpaper.

I use an emery board for both as it has a different grit on both sides and provides a semi hard, flat surface.

Perhaps I should have mentioned that in my post. (my bad)

[bobss396]

I find that emery boards and sanding sticks tend to rock around. Leaving a not very straight edge or surface. 

Steel files, small or large, are better for control.