Bernard Kron Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 (edited) I need another project like a hole in the head... We all know the drill! But anyway, last month attending a local model car show, I bought a backup AMT 40 Ford Fordor Sedan kit for a radical custom I'm planning for later this summer. Since I'll be sectioning and chopping the body I figure keeping a couple of extra bodies around wouldn't hurt. When I opened the box I noticed a second body shell so for $10.00 I was in! Later, showing my find to Fletch and Dave Nelson (racer13) they pointed out that the second shell was the R 'n' D Unique resin Fordor. Hmmmm... mixed feelings. The other night I decided to mock the Fordor up. Turns out it's got bags of personality. So I've decided to slam it, mount the kit Olds V8 with tri-carbs, run flippers and whitewalls and DeSoto bumpers. Today I test shot some Duplicolor Metalcast Purple over Sunburst Gold Metallic. Viola! Instant Candy Orchid! Below are some pics of the test shot and the initial mockup after lowering the front and rear suspension. This will be a quick build, I hope, since I need one as a break from some other not-so-quick builds. What do you think? Edited June 16, 2009 by gbk1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towmaster Dave Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 I like that, good score on the resin fordor. Put some big wire wheels and that color you choose that would look sweet. The whites and flippers would look great too thought. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raul_Perez Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Bernard, What's one more project amongst friends? That is one bright color on a pretty big car!! A little BMF along the beltline molding will help breakup the color and tie together with the chrome at the same time. Looks like a WINNER!! Later, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CB Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 I was wonderin' what you was up to B! Nice li'l projeck.......very nice in fact. Love the mockup-- the two tone colours . Normally I'd go with what DaveZinn said 'bout droppin' the tail, but I really likes the nose draggin' stance dat you got goin' on. You are the 'stance-miester' afterall oh yeah, love them wrinkly windows Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Can't have too many 40 Sedans!! This one is looking good. With the skirts, I agree with Dave to lower the rear mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Yummy!!! I agree with Dave & Mike about droppin that tail...and CB with the wrinkly windows Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 (edited) Lyle Willits posted the following warning to me on the TRaK board, for which I will be forever grateful... Thanx for the hedz up, Lyle. The voice of experience... Regarding Metalcast paint,,,,,,,,,,IT'S A TINT, not an acrylic lacquer. If you try to clear coat over it, it will dissolve and turn into a sloppy mess. Also you can NOT polish it out. It will come right off. Duplicolor METALSPECKS is paint. Duplicolor MetalCAST is a tint, meant for "anodizing" metal. Uh,,,,,,,,I learned all this the hard way. "Sloppy mess" indeed. Here's yesterday's test shot with a coat of Duplicolor Clear: Click on picture for larger image if you dare! Hmmm... what to do? Spray the tint over a polished out base gold and go without clear? Are you feelin' lucky, punk? Edited June 2, 2009 by gbk1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CB Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Dat looks like a body part, B! This here's a model car forum, not CSI!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 I didn't have a problem. I think it's because I cleared it as soon as it sat up ,, 5 minuts maybe., , with Duplicolor clear laquer. Thanx Steve. I'll try a test shoot tomorrow allowing a minimum setup time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raul_Perez Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Thanx Steve. I'll try a test shoot tomorrow allowing a minimum setup time. Hmmmm...I'd be very careful in testing the gods of paint...they can be very tempermental at times... Later, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 (edited) We have paint! Thanx to Lyle's warning and Steve's comments, as well as the encouraging news from a couple of other posters on the TRaK board that they had successfully cleared Metalcast, I went ahead and test shot Duplicolor clear over Metalcast this afternoon. Conditions were ideal, sunny, windless and about 80 degrees F. I shot outside. Duplicolor light grey Primer Sealer, followed by Duplicolor Sunburst Gold Metallic. Then, Duplicolor Metalcast purple and finally Duplicolor Clear. One coat each. 30 minutes setup time for the primer and gold base in hot direct sunlight (probably equivalent to a 105 degree dehydrator I’m guessing), then 5, 10 and 50 minute setup time for the Metalcast and finally the Clear. As you can see there’s absolutely no difference among the three and they all came out great. However, I should point out that in all three cases the Metalcast was far from cured. If you dragged your finger across it, it was still soft. So Steve’s suggestion is right on, it’s just a bit more tolerant on a time basis. Also, the primer on yesterday’s test shot which crazed was Duplicolor white Sandable Primer, fully cured. Perhaps the Primer Sealer provides a more tolerant base, I don’t know. It seems unlikely to me… In any case I have a system that works! Spraying Duplicolor Clear over Metalcast while the Metalcast is relatively uncured, as Steve suggested, works just fine. Next step is to tempt the paint gods and shoot the fenders because I have extras if I screw up. If that goes well, then it’s time for the resin body which is a one of a kind… Here’s the test pic: I’ve received several comments suggesting I lower the back end tail-dragger style. I did think it had a bit too much rake but I like the nose-the in-the-weeds look so I took another 1-2 scale inches out of the rear ride height. This is pretty much the maximum you can do without deleting the rear suspension entirely or z-ing the frame, neither of which I am inclined to do (it’s supposed to be a quick build). The mild forward leaning rake I’ve got now is, to my eyes, very attractive since it “sells†the humpback silhouette. I’ll save a tail dragger stance for a coupe body. In any case, now the wheel rim has disappeared so I guess I have an extra set a flipper caps! I also cleaned up the window frames and prepped the body and fenders for paint and glued the skirts and grille surround in place. I also got the engine parts painted and ready for assembly. Maybe this’ll be a quick build after all. Of course, tomorrow is the most dangerous day – PAINT!!!! Here’s a pic of the modified stance: Thanx for all the help, guys! Edited June 2, 2009 by gbk1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 (edited) Dat looks like a body part, B! This here's a model car forum, not CSI!! It occurred to me, too. I reduced the image to a clickable one in deference to the squeamish... Edited June 3, 2009 by gbk1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Hey Bernard This is lookin very KOOOOL Sorta AIRFLOW-ISH from the rear. Don't see old four-doors built here very often. Gonna be fun to watch. Love those quicky builds ( You thought I was gonna say love quickies - but I fooled ya ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellonwheelz3 Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Hey there, I gotta agree with everyone else that went along with lowering the back end. And man, when you did, that did it! what a great build! good job! and good luck on paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rattlehead71 Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Great looking mock. Paint will be sweet iffuns you keep the color you chose. Hate to be a peckerwood, but I kinda like the nose down look with a body that looks that long with a roof that high. Feel brave? Chop it and then the tail-drag would look good. Hate me or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted June 3, 2009 Author Share Posted June 3, 2009 Great looking mock. Paint will be sweet iffuns you keep the color you chose. Hate to be a peckerwood, but I kinda like the nose down look with a body that looks that long with a roof that high. Feel brave? Chop it and then the tail-drag would look good. Hate me or not. Thanx Andy. Actually it still doesn't have a tail-dragger stance. The nose is quite a bit lower than the tail, just not as exaggerated as before. Once I put the bumpers on it will be more obvious. Sorry, no chop this time. This is a quick build. I've got two '49 Fords to get back to. I'm doing this one sweet and simple for relaxation. But fear not, I have a chopped and sectioned Tudor in the works for later this summer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rattlehead71 Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Looks killer, Bern. Keep the nose down, then. Loving it. Seen the reply's on TRaK also. Who can I ruffle?............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raul_Perez Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 ...Next step is to tempt the paint gods and shoot the fenders because I have extras if I screw up... ...Maybe this'll be a quick build after all. Of course, tomorrow is the most dangerous day – PAINT!!!... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevegt738 Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 ...Next step is to tempt the paint gods and shoot the fenders because I have extras if I screw up... ...Maybe this'll be a quick build after all. Of course, tomorrow is the most dangerous day – PAINT!!!... Well i won't be painting tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share Posted June 4, 2009 (edited) Well, today was paint day. All went well through the gold base coat: But stupidly I got impatient to try out the Metalcast and landed up violating the “many light coats†rule in my haste to get a nice rich Candy Orchid down. The paint gods then begat a nasty paint drip down the center of the hood. Fortunately it’s a 40 Ford hood because I’ve got lots of AMT 40 hoods (I’m partial to the ’39 grill and headlights on the AMT Tudor). One good thing that came out of it is that I decided to see if I could rub out the flaws and discovered that the Metalcast was far more robust than I thought it would be. From this accidental experiment I would say you can polish Metalcast just as you would any other DupliColor paint, at least if you have a fairly heavy coat on it. Tomorrow I’ll spray the fully cured Metalcast with clear just for drill and see if it crazes like the other one did the other day. If not, then the crazing may have had something to do with the primer I used (?)… Anyway, here’s a picture of the hood after I rubbed it out. As you can see the Metalcast held up just fine. Unfortunately there are spots rubbed down to the primer where I had to deal with the paint drips so I have to do the hood over regardless. And just to keep things moving along, here are some pics of the completed motor and chassis: Thanx for lookin’. Edited June 4, 2009 by gbk1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raul_Perez Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Very nice color, Bernard!! It'll look GREAT once you pay appropriate homage to the paint gods and they let you get on with finishing the job. They truly are an ungrateful lot! The spark plug boots look good, too!! Later, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 We Have Color!!! So purty I couldn't resist some quick shots. Now back into the dehydrator! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Banes Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 We have paint! Thanx to Lyle's warning and Steve's comments, as well as the encouraging news from a couple of other posters on the TRaK board that they had successfully cleared Metalcast, I went ahead and test shot Duplicolor clear over Metalcast this afternoon. Conditions were ideal, sunny, windless and about 80 degrees F. I shot outside. Duplicolor light grey Primer Sealer, followed by Duplicolor Sunburst Gold Metallic. Then, Duplicolor Metalcast purple and finally Duplicolor Clear. One coat each. 30 minutes setup time for the primer and gold base in hot direct sunlight (probably equivalent to a 105 degree dehydrator I’m guessing), then 5, 10 and 50 minute setup time for the Metalcast and finally the Clear. As you can see there’s absolutely no difference among the three and they all came out great. However, I should point out that in all three cases the Metalcast was far from cured. If you dragged your finger across it, it was still soft. So Steve’s suggestion is right on, it’s just a bit more tolerant on a time basis. Also, the primer on yesterday’s test shot which crazed was Duplicolor white Sandable Primer, fully cured. Perhaps the Primer Sealer provides a more tolerant base, I don’t know. It seems unlikely to me… In any case I have a system that works! Spraying Duplicolor Clear over Metalcast while the Metalcast is relatively uncured, as Steve suggested, works just fine. Next step is to tempt the paint gods and shoot the fenders because I have extras if I screw up. If that goes well, then it’s time for the resin body which is a one of a kind… Here’s the test pic: Bernard? You need to step up and get a GOOD spray booth. I’ve received several comments suggesting I lower the back end tail-dragger style. I did think it had a bit too much rake but I like the nose-the in-the-weeds look so I took another 1-2 scale inches out of the rear ride height. This is pretty much the maximum you can do without deleting the rear suspension entirely or z-ing the frame, neither of which I am inclined to do (it’s supposed to be a quick build). The mild forward leaning rake I’ve got now is, to my eyes, very attractive since it “sells†the humpback silhouette. I’ll save a tail dragger stance for a coupe body. In any case, now the wheel rim has disappeared so I guess I have an extra set a flipper caps! I also cleaned up the window frames and prepped the body and fenders for paint and glued the skirts and grille surround in place. I also got the engine parts painted and ready for assembly. Maybe this’ll be a quick build after all. Of course, tomorrow is the most dangerous day – PAINT!!!! Here’s a pic of the modified stance: Thanx for all the help, guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 (edited) Hey Don! Re: "You need to step up and buy a GOOD spray booth." Unfortunately I have nowwhere to put it. We don't have a basemment and my office/studio/hobby room couldn't tolerate even the slightest leakage of spray (lotsa computer equipment and microchips, etc.). Edited June 5, 2009 by gbk1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raul_Perez Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 We Have Color!!! OOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooooooooo........................!!! As the crowd yells for more!!! That's looking really good, Bernard!! I can't wait to see how it looks with some BMF!! Later, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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