Revell's plastic

[mr moto]

Revell seems to be on a roll these days as far as issuing really good new product but I was put off by Revell kits in the past because the plastic was very sensetive to the automotive paints that I tend to use. Have they addressed that problem or do you still have to take extra steps to protect the plastic when you use auto paint?

[MrObsessive]

Manuel, not having built any of the new Revell kits in a while, (last one was the '06 Magnum a couple years ago) I'd err on the side of caution and barrier the plastic before I did any painting.

If the plastic is of a cheaper grade that I think it is, I can't see Revell taking a step back and spending more money for better plastic in light of what costs are today.

Some may disagree (including Revell) that the plastic is no different than it was from years ago. But I can see the difference in the plastic itself compared to say 10 years ago.

[Steve D.]

I've built a bunch of Revell kits lately and , knock on wood , have not had any problems . The past couple of years I've become a spray bomb junkie.....I know ...I know its not a good thing , but with the quality of the sprays these days it's possible to get a contest winning finish out of a can . While there are good modeling spray paints (I'm talking lacquer here not enamel) like Tamiya and the new Testors , they are "cool" paints and supposidely do not require any primer . I must admit I prime almost everything and to date have not had any problems .

As for using auto parts lacquer spray bombs or "hot" paints you definately need a barrier to protect the plastic . Ive heard that Plasti-cote primer works well , but its been a while since I've been able to find it . When using hot paints or even nail polish cut with lacquer thinner , I do the following . First all body work , puttying etc. Then a good coat of primer (Tamiya lacquer) and 24 hours in the dehydrator. My next step is to give it a "rub" with polishing compound to get the primer as smooth as possible . And I mean just a rub to smooth out the primer not remove it . Next I "dust" on a coat of BIN sealer , which is a shellac , that is thinned with alcahol . BIN is the brand name of this product and is available at Home Depot and all the chain stores . I stress 'DUST" because BIN sprays extremely heavily out of the spray can , and being such a thin product requires a very light touch , or quick stroke so to speak . And yes for you airbrush guys it is sold in pint and quart cans . ( as you can imagine this product is a lot easier to airbrush )

After dusting on a couple of light coats of BIN give it an hour to dry then start laying on the finish paint . BIN says you only have to wait twenty minutes but I always give it an hour .

Hope this helps , Take care and see you around the clubhouse,

Steve D.

[Zoom Zoom]

Considering the fact that there was quite an uproar at the time, and there has not been any uproar as of late, I'd say Revell must have fixed the problem. At some point someone said that Revell was looking into it. I've never had any problem w/the plastic, but I tend to use hobby paints and when I do shoot auto paint on models I take the necessary steps to prime and seal the plastic.