Vince Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 ...what type of paint is best to use for plastic models? Do you recommend airbrushing or painting by hand? Thanks for helping out a beginner! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Geisler Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 Vince, The questions you ask are not as easy as you'd think...But I will give you some general info to get you off and running....First, typically a sprayed finish, either by spray can or air brush, would provide a nicer finish than if you decided to brush paint. But don't let that discourage you in your building quest. As far as types of paints, for plastic models, Tamiya and Testors Laquers can provide a very nice finish with out too much fuss... Keep trying at it, and keep asking questions....There are lots of other guys here that still "school" me on a regular basis.... Post some pics if ya can.... Good Luck, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Hearse Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 If you are just starting out, and have never painted a kit before, I would recommend using enamel spray cans, and a primer. It's best to get used to the feel of applying paint with a spray can before you get into using an airbrush. What I do is make sure the bodywork is straight and even (no mold lines, indentations, etc.) and apply a coat of primer. My favorite primer is colorplace from Wal-Mart. It can be used with any type of paint with no problems (enamel, lacquer, acrylic.). I spray a light coat, wait 10 minutes, and spray another, and keep doing that until it has complete coverage. The I use some fine grit sandpaper, and smooth out the primer being careful not to sand through to the plastic. Then I spray on what ever color I'm planning to use, using the same steps as with the primer, until I have a nice even coverage. Then I use the sandpaper to smooth out the paint, and then add 2 heavy wet coats of the main color, keeping them as smooth as possible. I then wait 2 weeks, and then add 3 light coats of clear, then 2 heavy coats, waiting 10 minutes between coats. after I have added the clear, I wait 1 month for it to dry, and then use polish on it to smooth it out, and give it a nice shine. Never use a paint brush painting a body. It'll leave brush marks in the paint, and it's a hassle to get the marks out. I only use a brush on small parts of a kit. Good luck with your building. Post your builds when you get a chance, and welcome to the forum! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 Thanks for the insight, guys, (and the welcome). I have wanted to start building for a while now, and I'm finally finding the time to do it. I appreciate the tips...and I'll definitely try to get pictures taken as I progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nascarfan Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 Assemble as much as possible before paint, like the engine the suspension parts ect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 First off, welcome Vince! The only other thing I can add to this is mere patience, patience, and some more patience! Folks get turned off after a while because they see models that others have built, and they get a little disappointed because theirs hasn't turned out as nice. A lot of us have been building for decades now, and it takes TIME to build up to whatever skill level you want to achieve. So if your first results are not the best, don't fret it! Take on the next model and try to improve on that. It's like working out and trying to lose weight-------each workout is like a deposit in the bank. Those little cents eventually add up to big dollars! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 First off, welcome Vince! The only other thing I can add to this is mere patience, patience, and some more patience! Folks get turned off after a while because they see models that others have built, and they get a little disappointed because theirs hasn't turned out as nice. A lot of us have been building for decades now, and it takes TIME to build up to whatever skill level you want to achieve. So if your first results are not the best, don't fret it! Take on the next model and try to improve on that. It's like working out and trying to lose weight-------each workout is like a deposit in the bank. Those little cents eventually add up to big dollars! From browsing the forums, I can tell that patience is definitely the key. I will try to remember that as I go along. I was reading another thread and the people in that were gung-ho on automotive paints and not so high on hobby paints. The responses here made it sound as if hobby paint is perfectly acceptable. Is there any sort of consensus or guiding principle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 The question "what type of paint is best" has no answer, and there is NO consensus. There are so many different brands and types of paint out there that it's a nightmare for a beginner to even try and sort through it all... so I'll do my best to give you the "Reader's Digest" condensed version, or Model Painting 101... Ask 100 guys what's the best paint to use, and odds are you'll literally get 100 different answers. Everybody basically comes up with a type of paint and a technique that works for them after trying various paints/methods. It's basically a trial-and-error process, and there really is no one, clearcut answer. However, I can give you an overview of some basics. I'll assume you're new to the painting game, so I'll start at the beginning. 1. Almost ANY type/brand of paint can be used to produce a quality finish on a model. It's all a matter of proper application and a certain level of skill. There definitely is NOT one "correct" paint to use. You can use either "model paints" or "real car" paints (Duplicolor is one well-known brand, and my personal favorite paint to use on models). 2. For the sake of simplicity let's stick to the 3 main families of paint: lacquers, enamels and acrylics (there are others, but let's keep this at beginner level for now). Enamels are what are traditionally known as "model paint". However, model paint manufacturers now also offer a wide variety of lacquers and acrylics. Pros and cons: Enamels: Pros-relatively cheap, wide variety of colors, available just about anywhere. Cons-tend to dry very slowly, therefore picking up dust and things might be a problem. They tend to stay soft for a long time, even after you think they're "dry." Drying time can be speeded up by using a food dehydrator (oops... that's in Painting 102)... Lacquers: Pros-also available in a wide variety of colors, available just about anywhere, very fast dry time, very easy to polish out to a great shine. Cons-somewhat "hotter" than enamels, can attack the underlying plastic depending on the brand of paint, so a good lacquer primer is necessary. Pretty strong odor. Acrylics: Pros-water based, so fumes are non-toxic (at least not as toxic as enamels or lacquers), also very fast dry time, also polish out nicely. Cons-maybe slightly fewer colors available vs. enamels or lacquers. For a beginner, I'd strongly suggest either a lacquer or an acrylic, both available either in spray cans or for airbrush use. I'd stick to a spray can for the time being. You can get a spectacular result by using a spray can. An airbrush will give you greater control (over both paint flow and air flow), but using an airbrush well is a whole nother skill set... it takes some practice to get the feel of it. For a beginner, a spray can will do just fine. I'd also suggest staying in the same family/brand as far as primer, color coat and clear topcoat (if used). I know that many people mix and match brands and even types of paint, but again, for a beginner it's much easier to simply stick to one type/brand of paint and avoid any possible bad interactions between paint types or brands. Finally, the "great equalizer:" a polishing kit. Using a polishing kit to rub out you paint job will result in a spectacular, smooth finish no matter what type of paint you used. It's possible to get a nice smooth finish without using a polishing kit, but polishing out the paint can remove any orange peel, dust specks or other minor imperfections in your paint. Obviously a polishing kit is used only after the paint is thoroughly dry. That should get you started in the right direction... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 Hobby spray enamels are fine for the beginner because you're a beginner. My problem with hobby paints is they don't seem durable enough for the type of rubbing out polishing that I like to do to get that super smooth shine. Not to mention the cost which is on the high side considering what you get as opposed to getting the automotive paints which can cover a number of model bodies. Hobby paints are a lot more friendly to styrene plastic as one usually doesn't have to barrier/prime/color coat to get a desired finish. Your color selections in the hobby paints can be quite limiting though. As a replica/factory stock builder, many times I want the exact color that the car came with when it rolled out the factory doors for the first time. You can't get that a lot of times with the hobby paints.............but maybe "something close". Well if you eventually want to build for a show, "something close" won't cut it! So I recommend the hobby paints for the first timers out there, but as your skills and desires increase, you'll want to advance to the "hotter" automotive paints, which is another thread on how to prep your model body for using those. Hope this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 Again, GREAT answers to what I figured was a simple question. With this much info, I think I am ready to go shopping for my materials. Thanks a million! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW Dave Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 Vince - Bear in mind that, among this group, there are no 'stupid' questions. Ask away, and you are bound to get at least three different angles on how to get over whatever you're working on. Bill's right on the patience part, and don't ever let the work of others intimidate you. It may have been decades ago for most of us, but we too were newbies once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 The single most important thing to never forget is TIME. this is the common denominator we as modelers all have and need (lots)more of. We need time to prep...before we spend time painting,then more time drying, more time foiling and polishing....and we are not even at final assembly yet!!!! Once you take the time to plan your build and detail level you want the time needed will be easy to plan out...and then you can adjust what you are gonna do based on time available. As for painting different kinds (enamel, lacquer, or acrylic) time is a real factor......listen to Harrys advice...and take your time!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nascarfan Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 Another tip would be to make sure you keep your early builds so you yourself can see improvement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelguy( jeff) Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 hello vince welcome to the fourm there some crazy guys here but they do build some sweet cars iam a ok builder not show stuff but ok for me i use can paint for the most i have used alot of diff stuff from wal-mart brand to testors model master oh by the way i see your in wichita kansas can you tell me your age and if you know of our club models inc. (aka) off the scale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Most Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 ...what type of paint is best to use for plastic models? Do you recommend airbrushing or painting by hand? Thanks for helping out a beginner! Well, this is a bit too broad a question to be clear and concise with an answer, but here's what I did- I just used spray cans for many years, until I got my chops honed pretty well on that. I'm just now getting the hang of using an airbrush. It's like anything else, Vince- you've just got to put in a lot of practice and get comfortable with it. I'm convinced no matter what TYPE of paint you use, be it a $1 can of off-brand spray,or a custom mixed airbrush paint, it has more to do with the TECHNIQUE you use than the actual paint itself. I've seen great paint jobs that were made using cheap-o rattle cans, and I've seen catastrophically terrible paint jobs that were made using top-shelf products. One thing you should look out for- always test out the paint on the plastic first- some laquers and most all nail polishes can rip plastic to shreds. Use a primer/sealer for these finishes and you should be okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince Posted June 23, 2009 Author Share Posted June 23, 2009 Well, this is a bit too broad a question to be clear and concise with an answer, but here's what I did- I just used spray cans for many years, until I got my chops honed pretty well on that. I'm just now getting the hang of using an airbrush. It's like anything else, Vince- you've just got to put in a lot of practice and get comfortable with it. I'm convinced no matter what TYPE of paint you use, be it a $1 can of off-brand spray,or a custom mixed airbrush paint, it has more to do with the TECHNIQUE you use than the actual paint itself. I've seen great paint jobs that were made using cheap-o rattle cans, and I've seen catastrophically terrible paint jobs that were made using top-shelf products. One thing you should look out for- always test out the paint on the plastic first- some laquers and most all nail polishes can rip plastic to shreds. Use a primer/sealer for these finishes and you should be okay. Thanks for this insight. I'm certain technique only comes from practice, which I plan to get a lot of. When you say test the paint on the plastic, I assume you mean on the discarded trees and not on actual parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy Kortman Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Thanks for this insight. I'm certain technique only comes from practice, which I plan to get a lot of. When you say test the paint on the plastic, I assume you mean on the discarded trees and not on actual parts. Vince, First off, welcome to the forum. It's a great place to "Hang out" As to your question; eventually if you build long enough you will amass a styrene grave yard of parts kits. These are kits that you bought just to use a few parts on a current build, and then set the rest of the kit aside. (much to your spouse's dismay..."You paid how much just to get a set of wheels and tires?") Well, the bodies in these parts kits will make great "canvases" to practice on, work out new techniques, or even just try a new paint scheme before laying it down on the "good" kit you are building. Sometimes you can even find a few guys at a show that will be selling glue bombs cheap that you can pick -up for the same purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 Vince, First off, welcome to the forum. It's a great place to "Hang out" As to your question; eventually if you build long enough you will amass a styrene grave yard of parts kits. These are kits that you bought just to use a few parts on a current build, and then set the rest of the kit aside. (much to your spouse's dismay..."You paid how much just to get a set of wheels and tires?") Well, the bodies in these parts kits will make great "canvases" to practice on, work out new techniques, or even just try a new paint scheme before laying it down on the "good" kit you are building. Sometimes you can even find a few guys at a show that will be selling glue bombs cheap that you can pick -up for the same purpose. I can see the look on my wife's face now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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