DR Dubois Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 TxRat, that 2 part Spray Maxx clear in the can is supposed to be pretty good. I've never used it personally, but a number of custom painters I know say it is good stuff. I've used the Dupont 2 part in a rattle can with great results. Never tried it over Slixx decals though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old low&slo Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 is there a difference between the HOK paint coast airbrush sells and the HOK blackgold sells ?? I had heard somewhere that blackgold HOK is not true HOK paint. any truth to that ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 OK guys, I said before I HAVE RESPIRATORY PROTECTION. BTW How long have those filters been out of the package there treehugger That's an old pic and they've been replaced several times since then out of the box of them I have . You're not supposed to look that closely at the pic's I post . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 (edited) Thanks for all the info guys. One thing I would like to know Treehugger is if that is the gun you use to spray with or is it just a primer gun. The gun in the pic is a small HVLP 4 1/2 ounce gun I use to shoot catalyzed clear coat on large projects. Here's my "Cheapy" $35.00 Testors airbrush I use on 95% of my projects, including the "Retro-Vette", and my other prize winning projects, including the "HOLLYWOOD GRAHAM". I SHOOT AT 65 TO 90 psi ALWAYS, NEVER BELOW 65 EVER OUT OF THIS AIRBRUSH. LOTSA PAINT COMES OUT AND LAYS DOWN BEAUTIFULLY. YA JUST GOTTA HAVE ENOUGH BAll* AND KNOW-HOW TO TRY. I HATE PLAYIN' IT SAFE. WHY NOT BE A RISK TAKER AND LIVE ON THE EDGE, AND SET YOUR OWN DIRECTION. IF YOU DO LIKE EVERYONE ELSE YOU'LL PROBABLY REALLY NEVER BE A STAND0OUT BUILDER, OR BE SATISFIED, BECAUSE YOU NEVER LET'ER RIP In my career and my hobbies, I learned an important lesson. THE BOYS WITH THE MOST EXPENSIVE TOOLS HARDLY EVER WIN. ( BOY AM I GOING TO HEAR IT NOW ) TECHNIQUE, SKILL, EXPERIENCE, AND KNOWLEDGE ARE 95% OF ANYTHING YOU'LL TRY TO ACCOMPLISH IN LIFE, INCLUDING PAINTING OR MODEL BUILDING. TOOL QUALITY AND COST WILL NEVER MAKE UP FOR OR REPLACE THESE FOUR MENTIONED. I'm not saying don't invest in good equipment, just make sure that your skills and needs match your choice . P.S. ( I guess I'm a bit of a "Rogue Builder". While some are saying how it SHOULD be done, and what not to do, I'm off figuring out what makes sense, talking to expert body and paint people, and doin' what works for me, AND TAKING SOME RISKS IN LIFE. Started winnin' over 50 years ago at some pretty prestiges events then, and continue to this day, SO I GUESS A LITTLE ATTITUDE, EGO and a touch of ARROGANCE FIT IN MY BOX OF TOOLS SOMEWHERE ALSO ) Edited July 14, 2009 by Treehugger Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Dave, There is a narrow thin line between cockiness and self confidence..... It is one's ability to back up what they say and do ! In my eyes , you back it up with what you lay down on the tables for all to see. There is much to be said and admired about your body of work. My Grandpap had a saying that he taught me at a very early age , " Visibility lends to credibility " That has stayed with me my entire life and affects whatever I do . Somewhere along the way in your life , you learned this too. It shows in your work and you are to be commended for it . By the way , my choice of glue for overall construction is Plastizap , in the orange and white bottle. It dries quick , holds strong , and breaks cleanly with no damage to the parts. A tiny bit goes a long way ! The Old Man Lone Wolf Custom Painting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitrojunkie Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 (edited) TECHNIQUE, SKILL, EXPERIENCE, AND KNOWLEDGE ARE 95% OF ANYTHING YOU'LL TRY TO ACCOMPLISH IN LIFE, INCLUDING PAINTING OR MODEL BUILDING. TOOL QUALITY AND COST WILL NEVER MAKE UP FOR OR REPLACE THESE FOUR MENTIONED. Dave I could'nt agree with the above statement more.In my 1:1 work I use an el cheapo HVLP gravity gun with 3 different sizes of needles fluid nozzles and air caps.I get very good results from that gun and use it for everything,primer all the way to clear.I recently bought a Vapor gun from Northern tool to use as a clear coat gun only and it works just as well for $65.00.People ask what kind of money do you have tied up in guns and when their told they usually can't believe what I use.Its all in knowing the spray pattern and as Dave said above solid technique is the foundation everything else will come with time and patience. Edited July 14, 2009 by nitrojunkie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy Kortman Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 is there a difference between the HOK paint coast airbrush sells and the HOK blackgold sells ?? I had heard somewhere that blackgold HOK is not true HOK paint. any truth to that ???? From what I've found it's the same stuff. What was different was the Kustom Kolor stuff that they were selling in Walmart and some hobby shops. This stuff was a different formula. What Black Gold (and some others including Coast Air) are doing is simply decanting smaller amounts for sale to hobbyists. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy Kortman Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 What I'm saying here guys is the components and compound that make up this paint I make. so I am well aware of the dangers involved. Please lets not let this deteriorate into an OSHA subject. I just want to know how this stuff sprays and if there are any tips to to it. and if anyone has used it in can form before I purchase the paint in qts. THANKS!!! Sorry about the mother hen deal Shane. Being on the old picture box here makes it tough to know what someones background is. I know a guy who is now having all kinds of health issues because of the isocyanates (Sp?). So it's just kind of a habit now to be extra careful. Anyway, Like I said before I have only used the U-Tek Urethane. This is a much cheaper ($$) product used by std body shops. I shot it through a badger 150 using the "H" needle. I mixed the first batch according to the can, but i had trouble shooting it. The can gave a 4:1 ratio of clear to hardener. I discovered that i had to thin the mix to shoot it through the airbrush. I used virgin lacquer thinner (med temp). I probably should have used the appropriate reducer, but this is what i had available. It worked fine. I came up with a 4:1:1 mix of clear, thinner, hardener. If I remember correctly I shot it at about 40psi. It work wonderfully. What I really like about the Urethane other than the perpetual wet look, was how easy it made the final polishing step. So far i have only shot the U-tek over HoK and I have only had one problem. On my first attempt (On the Gold Rush 50 Merc in the under glass section) I sprayed the coats a little to heavy, and way to close together. It alligatored the HoK Pearl underneath. I had to strip the body and start over. BTW Urethane clear will make stripping a little tougher. I use a model railroad product called Chameleon. It will take off any paint I have tried yet. It usually will loosen the paint in about 10/15 minutes. With the urethane it begrudgingly started to loosen up the clear and underlying paint after about 30/45 min. It did all come off though. Good Luck!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old low&slo Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 From what I've found it's the same stuff. What was different was the Kustom Kolor stuff that they were selling in Walmart and some hobby shops. This stuff was a different formula. What Black Gold (and some others including Coast Air) are doing is simply decanting smaller amounts for sale to hobbyists. thank you sir for answering that for me. I appreciate it . and thats what I thought too but was not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old low&slo Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 TECHNIQUE, SKILL, EXPERIENCE, AND KNOWLEDGE ARE 95% OF ANYTHING YOU'LL TRY TO ACCOMPLISH IN LIFE, I'm not saying don't invest in good equipment, just make sure that your skills and needs match your choice . I cannot agree with you more but nothing to do with model building I used to breed angelfish and sell them to aquarium stores and I had the same attitude towards it as I quoted you on model building and it worked. I did it without the best equipment because if you know what your doing you dont need it. . I was able to sell a good quality angel and it was because of the 4 things you mentioned. just thought I would share that lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RatRod Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 (edited) TX.....I use Dupont/Nason 496-00 Fast flash Clearcoat, and 483-78 Mid Temp Clearcoat Activator, which is a 2 part urethane. I started using it for the same reason your looking at. I needed something to go over decals without harming them, and it works perfectly!!! I get it in a quart (clear) & pint (activator) and is around $35-36. You know all the rest of the story. Just letting you know, it's a perfect solution. It's a little thick, but worked great on 1/43 too... Edited July 15, 2009 by RatRod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuel Coupe Posted July 22, 2009 Author Share Posted July 22, 2009 (edited) Just got back from Disney and I am just able to read all the comments. First, I want to thank everyone for the responses even the unwarranted ones . I will give this paint a go and see how it sprays and lays down, Thanks everyone..... By the way RatRod: do you thin it beyond how you mix it prior to spraying... Edited July 22, 2009 by TxRat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Hey Shane, How was your trip to Disney? Did you make it to Big Daddy Don Garlits place? ###### trip to Chicago messed me up there - but I found a pretty decent hobby shop in Rockford, IL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 ###### trip to Chicago messed me up there - but I found a pretty decent hobby shop in Rockford, IL. didn't ya call Harry P in the windy??? I'm sure he woulda taken good care of ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuel Coupe Posted July 25, 2009 Author Share Posted July 25, 2009 Yea, I like it.... Now, I wound up with a bit of trash in the trunk. Can this stuff be sanded and polished back out??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuel Coupe Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 (edited) well with all the responses to my questions about wet sanding answered I decided to go for and it worked fine. sanded nice and slick.. I ran into a problem with what I have discovered was called "solvent popping" this is where gas bubbles are trapped between the coats and show up as pin holes. I attribute this to spraying heavy from the can. I only saw this on the ramcharger body. and it was minimal. I went to my local paint supplier and got PPG's lower level "Shopline" brand of clear and hardener and came home and shot a pinto body and it came out pretty good. bumped the pressure to 35psi and sprayed many light coats and had no solvent pop and it laid down nice and smooth.. The shadowing across the roof strips are from the water oak that hangs 25 feet above my driveway. Nice huh Thanks for all the help guys I'm really happy with the results. the decals and tape line disappear and it sprays to a glass finish.... Edited July 27, 2009 by TxRat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RatRod Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Sorry TX, I forgot about posting this.... Well, it looks you figured it out. I don't thin my clear, but I've heard you can, and yes it polishes like lacquer!!! Your cars look awesome!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitrojunkie Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Shane, see other than the initial cost its pretty simple isn't it.Once you actually sit down and figure the cost over the long run it is actually cheaper than model stuff. just did my Big John Mazmanian Willys yesterday with 1/4 oz of mixed clear.Thats over 200 1/24th or 1/25th cars for the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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