Testors Metalizer Question

[caine440]

I did not realize that testors metalizer never dries to the touch. Now after removing sliver finger prints from all over the body of the Cuda I am working on I need to find out how to seal the metalizer paint.

Can I use any clear lacquer or do I have to use the testors metalizer sealer?

Your thoughts?

[Chillyb1]

I did not realize that testors metalizer never dries to the touch. Now after removing sliver finger prints from all over the body of the Cuda I am working on I need to find out how to seal the metalizer paint.

Can I use any clear lacquer or do I have to use the testors metalizer sealer?

Your thoughts?

I have found the metalizers to dry to the touch almost instantly and have never had this problem with any of the variants, at least when they are shot from an airbrush. Are you using the spray cans?

Anyway, Testors's metalizer sealer changes the tone of the metalizers but doesn't seem to make it glossy or flat judging from the few times I've actually used it. Other clears can be used over metalizers but the tone (gloss, semi-gloss, or flat) will give a different effect; you'd have to experiment to get results you want. Also, the Testors brand sealer goes on in incredibly thin coats that are almost imperceptible, whereas other clears might end up going on thicker than you want.

Hope that was somewhat helpful.

[caine440]

I used an airbrush. I wonder if it is because The color I used (aluminium plate) needs to be buffed and what you have used is non buffing. I am just guessing.

Thanks!

[Chillyb1]

I used an airbrush. I wonder if it is because The color I used (aluminium plate) needs to be buffed and what you have used is non buffing. I am just guessing.

Thanks!

No, because I regularly use both the buffing and the nonbuffing, and sometimes I don't bother to buff the stuff that is supposed to be buffed yet it still never comes off on my fingers when handling. That's why this sort of question is so perplexing to me. I've seen other modelers say the same thing you have and I wonder if I've just been really lucky. Did you prime the surface first?

[caine440]

Hello

Thanks for your reply's.

The part was resin and I primed it with plastikote. Maybe I sprayed it on to heavy as this is the first time I have used both this paint and this airbrush.

[LoneWolf15]

Roger,

The Metallizer with the buffing formula will come off on the fingertips. Buff it out with a soft piece of T- shirt and it will no longer transfer onto your hands. Whenever your playing with this stuff , it is always wise to check the hands before touching anything else ! It's Murphy , Ya Know !

The Old Man

[caine440]

Thanks Everyone!

I think I have a game plan now.

[showbuilder]

i have found that the aluminum plate is the worst for coming off on your fingers. i use latex gloves and it still seems to come off before it is sealed. the stainless steel metalizer that i use for a primer does not seem to come off after being buffed out. once you learn what to do and what not to do.....it is a great product.

[RatRod]

Everything on the engine of this 1/8 scale Triumph were done with Testors metalizers from spray cans, some buffed, others not. Nothing was sealed as it does change the effect. It does rub off a little, but careful handling will give great results!!! Good luck....

Edited August 17, 2009 by RatRod

[Dan Helferich]

Beautiful Triumph John! Very subtle and clean build.

[misterNNL]

What brand and color of rattle can primer would you recommend for under the metalizer aluminum plate?

[DON-T2]

I have found that on plastic the buffing metalizer aluminum plate works best shot over bare plastic for the best results after buffing. Priming first gives a differ effect. For some reason it does not work the same on bare resin parts.

[Ace-Garageguy]

I've found that buffing metalizer works best, for the results I want, if I shoot it over a similar color of primer. 

The primer has to be sanded almost to a polished finish, like 1500 grit, which is why some folks probably aren't getting good results over primer.

Metalizer won't fill ANYTHING, so any slight roughness in your primer, sanding scratches, seams, etc. will make the finished product look like carp.

Shooting it over primer of a similar color (aluminum over medium gray primer, for example) helps to hide thin spots you might get if you buff your metalizer too aggressively.

I've said this a bazillion times, but if you shoot the metalizer WET, almost to the point of running, it will slick out beautifully and polish up just like metal.

Shoot it DRY, it will have a grainy surface that might work for as-cast parts, but it will NOT POLISH CORRECTLY.