DON-T2

R B Motion

[ have done the same thing using a piece of styafoam as the base.

Model car garage had them.

You can pick up 2 of the squares at Harbor Freight cheap with the coupons.

I use the Gorilla super glue a lot. Prefer the twin pack set at Lowes or Home Depot. It has more working time than the other super glues I have used in the past. I usually use a tooth pick for application as a little works quite well.

I put 3 or 4 bb's in the jar when using metallic's pearls and alclad just a quick swirl and everything stays mixed.

Same thing here all day.

I am in Long Beach just over the bridge from Cypress. I don't know how to pm so let me know if you want to meet.

Pick up a copy of the new issue of Scale Auto. There is a how to by Ron Ramsay on making headers out of solder.

I use the pin method for both mirrors and door handles.

A great example is the e-mail I got from Auto World yesterday. 25% off all Lindberg kits, I checked out the 37 Ford roadster. List was $39.95 25% off is still $30.00.

Just don't use brake fluid on a resin body as will turn to rubber.

Model Car Garage has a very nice blower drive set up with cogged belt.

Enamel yes, lacquer no

I have found that on plastic the buffing metalizer aluminum plate works best shot over bare plastic for the best results after buffing. Priming first gives a differ effect. For some reason it does not work the same on bare resin parts.

What happened to this build? Looks like it was coming along great.

Isn't the X-7 the bottled paint? I believe they are a acrylic paint that would not be compatable with TS-13 clear coat. Please correct me if i'm wrong. I have used TS-13 for several years and never had a problem over the Tamiya and Model Master lacquers Also have used Mr. Hobby clear with no issues.

Thanks Ray

Does anyone have photos of the wheels that are in the 41Ford woody custom that was recently released?

I got 10 out of 11, guess the old memory is still functioning

Try Mr.Color thinner it works well with all the acrylic lacquers I have used.

Sorry for the error, I have been using the Gorilla super glue not Gorilla glue and like Steve have not had the problem with other tires.

I am not using the 2 half style slicks, they just don't look right even cleaned up. The Polar Lights slicks have a back side insert that is side wall only. I am seeing the split from the rim straight out to the tread area. I was just taking one of them apart to check where the adhesive points were and it was where it started, has to be adhesive related. I also found that the rim was a tight fit in the tire which is probably contributing to the problem. I'm tempted to try micro crystal clear or check out a vinyl adhesive, also using an exato blade to give just a little more clearance ( hopefully a slip in fit.

I have a problem with tires forming a split in the side wall. This is happening mainly with Polar Lights slicks which are a 2 part tire. I have been using just a couple dabs of Gorilla glue to bond the tires together and the same for wheel mounting. Is it the adhesive reacting over time? What are you guys usins as an adhesive fir tire and wheel mounting? Thanks Don

Wondering what you guys use for window glass ( mainly side windows ). I have tried Evergreen but it has a dull look to it when installed. Any suggestions would be appreciated.