1932 ford

[E St. Kruiser50]

<img src="http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> .

<img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Edited August 8, 2010 by Treehugger Dave

[LUKE'57]

That'a an awful lot of money for something that seems to do the same thing that "Future" floor finish (now sold as "Pledge with Future" ) does just as well or better. And it can be applied with an airbrush or just a regular brush and is self leveling. If you get a "boo boo" with that paint then you're stuck. If you get one with the Future ( or if it yellows, though I've never had that problem with it) a little amonia will take you back to the paint and not back to square one to start over like removing clear paint will. Been using it for over twenty years with no problems and swear by it and not at it. LOL If it's tuff enough to walk on then what chance does mere dust have?.

[Fuel Coupe]

Good stuff Dave, I have found that the Shopline brand (PPG's house brand) is crystal clear as well.

Its a two part clear that needs no reducer, just hardener. Sells for about $35 for a quart w/ hardener. So far I like it...

[Harry P.]

Wouldn't any acrylic clear (like Future, Tamiya X-22, Model Master gloss clear acrylic, etc.) be non-yellowing? And safe over all paint types? And way, way cheaper than the fancy auto paint stuff?

Just wonderin...

[cruz]

That is right Harry, the Tamiya X-22 is a perfect choice, dries hard, will never yellow and you don't have to worry when applying it over decals. That's what Bill Geary told and showed me, never thought a water based acrylic worked so good.... Nonetheless, thanks for the advice Dave, I like to try anything and not just stay stuck with the same old thing.....

[Aaronw]

I've never had a problem with Future yellowing, and at $3 a quart you can't beat the price.

[Fuel Coupe]

That is right Harry, the Tamiya X-22 is a perfect choice, dries hard, will never yellow and you don't have to worry when applying it over decals. That's what Bill Geary told and showed me, never thought a water based acrylic worked so good.... Nonetheless, thanks for the advice Dave, I like to try anything and not just stay stuck with the same old thing.....

I guess Im doing something wrong on the x-22 or something has changed in the formula from 10 years ago as I have had poor results with the x-22. yes I get a great finish and super slick but ten years later it is still soft on some of my models.

[jbwelda]

just curious, but it sure seems to me tamiya paint, possibly even x-22, wasnt available in the states 10 years ago.

was it used in military or aircraft circles?

maybe time just flies.

btw i was gonna suggest future, but obviously there are others to sing its praises. the miracle in a bottle.

[Fuel Coupe]

just curious, but it sure seems to me tamiya paint, possibly even x-22, wasnt available in the states 10 years ago.

was it used in military or aircraft circles?

maybe time just flies.

btw i was gonna suggest future, but obviously there are others to sing its praises. the miracle in a bottle.

Nope very available, Thats all I used back then, I just thought thats the way it dried because a buddy of mine used the same thing with the same results...

[MrObsessive]

I guess Im doing something wrong on the x-22 or something has changed in the formula from 10 years ago as I have had poor results with the x-22. yes I get a great finish and super slick but ten years later it is still soft on some of my models.

A dehydrator is the key to getting the Tamiya X-22 to dry rock hard. Also I've found that you need to use their thinner and nothing else to get good results.

At least that's what has work for me.................

[MrObsessive]

just curious, but it sure seems to me tamiya paint, possibly even x-22, wasnt available in the states 10 years ago.

was it used in military or aircraft circles?

maybe time just flies.

btw i was gonna suggest future, but obviously there are others to sing its praises. the miracle in a bottle.

Bill, I was using Tamiya water based acrylics almost exclusively as far back as the late '80's. It was pulled off the market for some reason in the early '90's, then returned. I will say there WAS a change, in their formula where you could go to any hardware store, and use denatured alcohol from the shelf to thin their X-22 for instance.

When it returned to the U.S. market, I tried to use the denatured alcohol to thin the X-22...........and I got terrible fisheyes. Went to use their thinner, and no problem. So that might have been one of the changes.

[Fuel Coupe]

I was using it in the mid to late 90's. I thinned it with alcohol and I did see the occational fisheye. What I saw most was the paint would get marred when I would pack my models up to bring to shows. Whatever cloth I packed them in would leave marks in the paint which easily rub out but were still nuisance .

I have never used a dehydrator so there may in lie some of my problem...

[tabsscale1]

I see this topic come up periodically, and have never seen a good product or idea to solve the yellowing problem.

All the spray can clears have a yellow tint to them because of the base chemicals their made from.

Even most urethanes, including HOK, PPG and the others in the auto paints.

Decant enough into container, and you'll see what I mean. Or just open a quart can of your favorite urethane.

BUT, I HAVE FOUND ONE THAT WORKS. You open the pint can, and IT'S CLEAR - JUST LIKE WATER.

It's a two-part urethane, that you spray through your air-brush. You thin it with Xylene.

It come from the marine industry, and is used for boat decks and hulls, especially wood, as the last sealing finish.

IT'S ALSO RECOMMENDED FOR COATING OVER PAINT, CHROME AND ALUM.

It's a single stage system that dries very glossy, and dries "Rock Hard" according to the manufacturer, and finishes nicely.

It's a product called GLISTEN PC, made by a company called RESTO MOTIVE, who also makes a product called POR 15 for rust neurtralizing.

It was recommended to me by a painter friend, and luckily, I found it here locally at a auto paint store.

I also found it on the internet, so you can get it there, if no where else.

It's a 16 oz. pint kit that retails for about $35-$40.00. It'll paint at least 20-30 cars. NOT TOO BAD .

The Xylene thinner is available where lacquer thinner and acetone thinners are sold.

Very common solvent and thinner, just not often heard of here.

Hope this helps anyone searching for something like this - dave

I have been using Duplicolor Clear Truck paint On my Models for over 10 years and it has never ywllowed on me. Even decants clear and doesn't have a yellow tint. the last big can i bout was around $5. Everybody raves about Tamiya paints all of them I evr bought and tried out of the can I through away as i had better luck with Testors enamel paint.

[Jon Cole]

Dave-

Thanks for giving us yet another option for a good quality clearcoat. That's why I like it here, the more info we get, the better.

I have some 1:1 clears already by DuPont, but my disdain for my airbrush is a roadblock right now.

I need a better airbrush.

[Lownslow]

future has yellowed on me before, once i get rid of all the rattle cans im going back to urethane clears. i figured out how to strip it.

[E St. Kruiser50]

<!--quoteo(post=203234:date=Aug 22 2009, 12:22 PM:name=harrypri)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(harrypri @ Aug 22 2009, 12:22 PM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=203234"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->

Just wonderin... <img src="http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/huh.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="huh.gif" /><!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

<img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="rolleyes.gif" /> .

<img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/cool.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="cool.gif" /> .

Edited August 8, 2010 by Treehugger Dave

[Fuel Coupe]

future has yellowed on me before, once i get rid of all the rattle cans im going back to urethane clears. figured out how to strip it.

If you are talking about urethane, please tell us more

Edited August 23, 2009 by TxRat

[Lownslow]

If you are talking about urethane, please tell us more

i have access to medical grade alcohol on account my GF works at a medical lab it softens it enough to peel it off

[E St. Kruiser50]

<!--quoteo(post=203428:date=Aug 23 2009, 08:34 AM:name=Lownslow)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Lownslow @ Aug 23 2009, 08:34 AM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=203428"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->...<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

<img src="http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/cool.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="cool.gif" /> .

<img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/angry.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="angry.gif" /> .

<img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="rolleyes.gif" /> .

<img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/angry.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="angry.gif" /> , <img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Edited August 8, 2010 by Treehugger Dave

[LUKE'57]

ABSOLUTELY ..... THATS WHY I POSTED THIS.

Just about any clear mentioned here works well.....OVER COLORS .

BUT HARDLY ANYONE PAINTS A CAR WHITE AND CLEAR COATS IT-

Then I guess that would make me the exception to the rule. I still see only ONE statement about Future yellowing and that is with no other info. I'll have to have more than that before I throw away an old friend. It's thinnable with water and comes of with ammonia and doesn't harm the paint underneath and you can't say that about that high dollar two part stuff you're talking about.

Why clear coat a white car? I can only speak for myself but I do it to protect the paint and sometimes decals (I hand letter a lot of my stuff) because, unlike a lot of the models on here, mine live a pretty hard life. Once I get them built they become photo props for the realistic looking picture set-ups that I do, and as such get handled a lot and sometimes not gentley. But if you can walk on the stuff a little handling and dust ain't got a chance. And as for that mysterious 5 day yellowing event, this one has got around ten years and it, along with its brothers in the collection, seems to be somewhat behind the time frame for that yellowing event.

[Harry P.]

I'm pretty suspicious about that "5 day yellowing" event, too...

[Lownslow]

i learned montana is a super hard enamel im gonna try that in a few weeks

[ffreak]

I'll throw my 2 centh's worth in here. What has finally worked for me and solved my yellowing is first off, I use Tamiya TS26 Pure white for the color. Then I use the Tamiya TS13 clear and polish it out with Tamiya compounds. I have some of this that is approximately 10 years old and still as white as the day I shot it. I had a bad experience with the Future myself. I used it as a clear on a model, it looked fine for a few years but one day about 5 years after it was sprayed I was cleaning all my clear cases and saw that one had cracked severly all over the body. Just looked like spider webs all over the body but it was cracking future. No way to repair that one. Has anyone else had a similar problem ??

Danny

[FujimiLover]

I haven't noticed if my KS 500 SL has yellowed yet. I'll have a look'n'see. I used Tamiya paint for the white, and I can't remember what I used on the clear.

[Lownslow]

If it's a clear enamel that isn't an acrylic one, or a urethane, it will yellow, no matter how hard it is. I'd recommend checking into it carefully before buying it to be sure it's what you think it is.

Urethane & acrylic clears, as well as lacquer clears, (especially acrylic lacquers), are much better than any enamel clear. That's why Dave gave his recommendations, & why Jerry & I gave ours. Dave likes & has had good results with the Glisten PC, where Jerry & I have had good results with Future, & I've had good results with the Krylon Crystal Clear used by artists.

I just wanted to give you a heads up on checking the information on it very carefully, before investing in the wrong product.

nah i dont plan on using their clear.im using white it lays down thick enough to polish.