Best glue?

[s10kid18]

Hey guys! Ive tried all kinds of glue from super glue to model cement, Ive had no such luck with either. Super glue makes the plastic white and the windows. And the cement takes so long it never even really dries. So What is the best glue? Where can I buy it?

I also have another question, Im going to be building a 57 chevy gasser made by model king and Im looking to get some parts for it. What are some good sites to get parts? I was looking around and found ross gibson engines but they dont have a small block chevy with a high rise manifold and 2 four barrels! And how can I tint my windows a color?

Thanks in advance.

Mike.

[MrObsessive]

Mike, I'll try to answer your questions..............

Only use super glue in hidden places and sparingly at that! Super glue by its nature will fog plastic windows white so it's mostly never used for such. You're better off using a 5 min epoxy for clear parts, or a "white glue" such as Krystal Klear (sp) or Formula 500.

As far as other glues, that can run the gamut. I seldom use the tube glues such as Testors because as you mentioned, they take forever to dry. I say they never really dry as I've seen parts that were glued on one side show up on the other side because of the solvents which are inherent in tube glues.

I use liquid glue such as Ambroid Pro Weld------while others might prefer a product called Tenax. Both can be found in a well stocked hobby shop or online.

I can't help you on your Gasser quest as I'm not into those-----some others can help I'm sure.

For tinting windows, you might check out Tamiya's clear acrylics such as their clear blue, green and smoke for tinting. You'll need an airbrush though to apply those colors.

HTH!

Edited September 11, 2009 by MrObsessive

[MrObsessive]

Looks like great minds think alike, eh Mark?

[Zoom Zoom]

Superglue is fine if you use it w/an accelerator. That is the key, apply a drop of superglue in the mounting hole, apply the part, and then apply a drop or squirt of accelerator on the joint and it's done, and does not give off any vapor that causes the white haze.

Or soak a Q-tip in accelerator and apply to the male pins of the part being located, so that when it is in place it will set rather quickly. Again w/o haze. I use superglue/accelerator for a lot of parts and never get hazing, ever...even the few times I've applied it to clear (in a non-visible area). Sometimes a couple "tack joints" of supeglue/kicker inside the glass to hold it, while a stronger bead of canopy glue is applied to other areas for long-term strength.

I haven't used tube glue in decades. I do use Tamiya extra thin liquid cement, it's awesome, and the brush is very nice and precise.

I use (in order) superglue/accelerator, canopy glue (for clear/lenses), Tamiya thin cement (for some sub assemblies of styrene to styrene before painting), and epoxy for joints requiring a lot of strength.

[s10kid18]

Thanks guys! I really appreciate the help! When I start this build Ill be sure to use the right glue! What sites do you guys use to get parts? Ive been looking around and couldn't find much

[Nick Winter]

Hi,

I'm a young but fairly wise builder I've tryed a bunch of diffrent glues ,and call me old fashioned I still will always back testors, for making good glue. I've always used testors when I wasn't trying some new glue, I've used all the testors glues and never had a problem with any.

[s10kid18]

Ok thank you so much for all of your help! I have a small stash of extra parts but its thinning out because of my last build Im going to look around for other kits with things I need like you said. Thanks again.

Mike.

[Nick Winter]

Well try asking some of use If you need parts, I always am willing to let parts go. to a certain degree.

[charlie8575]

I'm going to second Testor's tube glue. It works well and that nice slow set time allows you to fiddle with stuff.

I'm assembling an AMT Auto Transporter, which is a multi-piece fiddle festival. I was considering using epoxy, but I liked the idea of having the solvent action and the slow set time of the tube cement and decided that was what I needed.

I've had a very strange problem with my Testors liquid cement- the caps are getting glued to the bottles! Between that and no budget to speak of right now, I'm not using it, at least until I can figure out what's going on.

Charlie Larkin

[Ragnar]

Mark gave a good run down of the glues, as you can see by his post there is no best glue, you should have everyone of the glues he mentions in his post.http://www.modelcargarage.com/

For detail Parts here are the companies I use: Detail Masters http://www.detailmaster.com ;Model Car Garage http://www.modelcargarage.com/ ; The Parts Box http://www.thepartsbox.com/ ;Morgan Automotive Detail http://www.lpstech.com/products.htm ; Scale Modeling By Chris http://www.scalemodelingbychris.com/ ;Fred's Resin Works http://www.fredsresinworkshop.com/ ; and Replicas and Minitures of Maryland( He doesn't have a web site, but he addvertises in the Model Car Magazines, and he is one of the best resources for detail parts there is, He has great 32 ford Chassis with transverse spring setup, Quick change and banjo rear axle/diffrentials, he also is the very best resource for Flatheads, and Flathead detail parts, he also has after market resin early ford bodies, interiors, and too much more to try to list.

CHEERS!

Tom

Edited September 25, 2009 by Ragnar