JayC Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 I've been avoiding doing this. I knew eventually I would have to. As some may know, I bought the deluxe airbrush from Harbor Freight. I figure it will be a good starter. Anyway, I have been kind of intimidated taking it apart because I envisioned an explosion of tiny parts or something when I took it apart. I never have good luck with tiny mechanical things. Anyway, I was surprised how easy it was. There are not that many pieces. It should be a snap to clean it. I do have a question about the brsuh, though. When I took the nozzle head off, the nozzle remained attached. The diagram in my airbrush's instructions (can also be downloaded from Harbor Freight) show that the nozzle should be able to be unscrewed from the nozzle head. I tried to unscrew it with some needle-nosed pliers, but couldn't get it off. I think it turned, some, but still would not come out. I didn't want to put too much pressure on it, since I don't know how much it can take before being damaged. The nozzle head itself was on pretty tight and I needed pliers to get that off. I don't have to remove it, do I, when cleaning? I can see through both the nozzle and nozzle head. My second part of the question is latex. I have some latex paint left over from some interior painting I did about a couple weeks ago. Could I use that, thinned with some water, to practice with? I read that paint should be thinned to about 2 parts paint and 1 part thinner. Would that be the same with a water-based paint? Or should I just add water to get the consistency of milk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigGary Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 You should be able to spray latex paint with your airbrush if its thinned down to the consistency of milk, but latex dries fast so don't let it sit too long. Practice makes perfect so vary your pressure and practice a lot. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr moto Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Latex wall paint will need a LOT of thinning. Besides that, it's so totally different from any paint that's used on models that I don't think you'll get any realistic practice. I think I'd start with some Testor's square bottle enamel or similar (that you might be able to find on a discount table), thin it down and practice with that. Just a suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gramps-xrds Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 I have to agree w/ Manuel. By the time you got the latex thinned enough to be usable it wouldn't have enough pigment to be able to see. Like Manuel said find some cheap enamel and use that. Walmart used to sell Plasti coats Odds-n-ends hobby enamel cheap and I think they still do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayC Posted October 9, 2009 Author Share Posted October 9, 2009 Besides that, it's so totally different from any paint that's used on models that I don't think you'll get any realistic practice. That's what I was worried about. I just figured it was worth a question. I will probably try with some Testors or use some decanted lacquer when I get the color I want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruz Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 That's what I was worried about. I just figured it was worth a question. I will probably try with some Testors or use some decanted lacquer when I get the color I want.That's it man, just keep away from it..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davysmodels Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 jayc, I have purchased several tools from Harbor Freight - one had a problem. Returned to the store and one of the associates fixed the problem. Then she decided to just replace the tool with a new tool. Great service. If the needle/nozzle is stuck, take the complete ab into the store and let the repair associate work on it. Let us know the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayC Posted October 10, 2009 Author Share Posted October 10, 2009 jayc, I have purchased several tools from Harbor Freight - one had a problem. Returned to the store and one of the associates fixed the problem. Then she decided to just replace the tool with a new tool. Great service. If the needle/nozzle is stuck, take the complete ab into the store and let the repair associate work on it. Let us know the results. Reading your post made me take another look at the airbrush. Seeing as I don't have a Harbor Freight store nearby I got the needle-nose pliers out again. I made my pressure firm, but not strong enough to crush the nozzle. I finally got it off. I don't think I damaged it either. I can see right through it and the needle doesn't have any trouble. However, there was some white, crusty stuff on the threads. Gotta love made in China! I removed the white, crusty stuff and it screws on and off easier now. I hope I don't get lead poisoning! Overall, I was surprised how stout the airbrush felt when I got it. It sure feels solid. Right now I am waiting on getting an airbrush hose. Being in a rural area it's slow going piecing together everything I need. I hope to use the airbrush someday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davysmodels Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 jayc, Glad to know all worked. The white material on the nozzle threads may be a sealer used to make the thread connection tight. Similar process to the white tape plumbers use on pipes. Perform a spray test with water or lacquer thinner just to be sure there are no leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ddms Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 (edited) Can you get different size nozzles for your brush? Some paints - like Model Master metalizers - spray better through a smaller nozzle, while other paints - like water-based acrylics - work better with a large nozzle. How much did your AB cost? Is there any visible sign that you've used or messed around with the brush? Do you still have the receipt? (Do you see where I'm going with this?) The Harbor Freight AB might not a good learning brush for you, especially if you can't get different nozzles for it. A crapola airbrush is like a "budget" musical instrument: its main function is to discourage beginners. There are some decent quality brushes available at a reasonable cost. I have one myself - a Paasche Series H. It's by no means the most versatile brush you can get, but it's well constructed. It takes a variety of nozzles and it's designed to accept either cups or bottles. Parts are easy to find. There are good reason that it's been the frugal modelers' workhorse AB for many years. I'm not saying it's the only game in town, but it's an example of a "starter" brush that gives good results and never wears out or breaks. (By the way, don't fool with latex paint. Latex is totally unlike any paint you'll use on a model, and it will surely clog your airbrush.) Ddms Edited October 10, 2009 by Ddms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigGary Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 I have 3 of the Harbor Freight/Northern tool grade airbrushes and I've found them to be very close to the Badger they are copied from. I use 3 at a time so I spend more time painting and less time cleaning, then they all get cleaned together. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragnar Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 Reading your post made me take another look at the airbrush. Seeing as I don't have a Harbor Freight store nearby I got the needle-nose pliers out again. I made my pressure firm, but not strong enough to crush the nozzle. I finally got it off. I don't think I damaged it either. I can see right through it and the needle doesn't have any trouble. However, there was some white, crusty stuff on the threads. Gotta love made in China! I removed the white, crusty stuff and it screws on and off easier now. I hope I don't get lead poisoning! Overall, I was surprised how stout the airbrush felt when I got it. It sure feels solid. Right now I am waiting on getting an airbrush hose. Being in a rural area it's slow going piecing together everything I need. I hope to use the airbrush someday! Before you reassemble the nozzle put a little petrolium jelly in the threads(just enough to coat the threads very lightly), this will help seal them and make it easier to take apart the next time you clean your airbrush, which you should do after each painting session. CHEERS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 Practice..... Thats the most important thing about your new tool. As for what to spray to practice?? The "experts" told me to use Ink...it worked perfectly to learn what my airbrush could do...lines, dots, circles...etc. What it did NOT teach me was how to spray plastic car bodies. So my advice is get a couple of kits cheap...parts missing or damaged will work. then get some of the paints you want to use.Tell us what you got and we will tell you what you need to do...prime, color, clear, thinner? cleanup? After you get the rough idea then you start the real practice...and 20 years from now you will still be practicing...constantly learning new ideas and techniques PS ditch the latex unless you're painting a dollhouse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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