New to the Trade! (and it shows)

[Grasor]

Hey guys,

I'm glad I found this forum as I am quite frustrated with the paint job I am dooming my 1:25 scale model of an International Harvester Scout II.

I received the model as a gift and have been slowly putting it together. The only problem I'm having is that the paint is going on horribly particularly on the body or anywhere there is a large flat surface.

The instructions were not very specific so I wasn't sure what type of paint I needed to buy (it just said go to a hobby store and buy model paint). But the kids at the store didn't seem all that knowledgeable. I ended up buying some Enamel paint. It really goes on badly, I'd like to get a smoother looking finish. Not show quality as I don't think I want to invest $90-$150 on an airbrush kit. I dunno, you guys tell me. What can I do to remedy this problem? If I need to switch paints or otherwise start over, I'll need help removing the "old" paint that I applied last night.

Thanks!

Tom

[crazyjim]

Welcome to the forum Tom.

I'm not the greatest painter around but I'll try to help. I try real hard to NOT use Testors spray enamels. I've been using Testors one coat laqcuers with success. I prime my parts with sandable primer by Plasti coat first.

To get your prior paint off use Purple Power that's available at Wal-Mart or Advanced Auto Parts. You'll often hear about "the purple pond" which refers to using Purple Power.

There's plenty of help here from much better informed people than me.

[disabled modeler]

Hi Grasor, welcome! these guys are the best! they will offer assistance and advise whenever possible. jims right.....if you paint with enamels you may not need to prime the body first,but if you paint with a lacquer type paint you will need to prime the body first to keep the paint from reacting with the plastic.....after removing the paint on it now as jim suggested if you see any damage ( etching on the body ) you can lightly sand it with a light grade sand paper untill smooth again thin prime the body sand very lightly untill smooth again. repeat if necessary untill your happy with the results. with primer on all of body parts you can paint again.........mark

[crazyjim]

Mark,

I primer the body no matter what type of paint is used for the final color. I wet sand the parts, prime, and wet sand again with a finer grade of paper.

[disabled modeler]

Hi Jim, thanks ! im still in the darkage so to speak....i still use rattle cans with decent results usually. need to upgrade to an air brush someday,then learn all over again. ive painted a few real cars in the past but models are a little bit different. thanks again! mark

[Grasor]

So from what I'm hearing I should be able to garner a smooth looking finish using an Enamel paint. Can I still use paint brushes or is this not recommended? Will I need to sand the paint job to make it look right?

Is there a good book or online resource that could help me?

Thanks,

Tom

[crazyjim]

Paint on the body? No way! I still use rattle cans but am trying to wean myself off and move over to an airbrush. Check out Donn Yost's DVD "The Art of Airbrushing Show Quality Models Cars". www.oldmansmodels.com There's also somebody on this forum that has them for $23.00. Terrific video!

Several people have posts about painting - do a search in the Tips & Techniques section.

[BigGary]

Tom,

Let me see if I can consolidate some of this info and add a little.

First, take the kit out of the box and wash all none chrome parts in warm soapy water and air dry. For your already painted kit put it in the "purple pool", that is Castrol Super Clean or Purple Power, available at Walmart, auto parts stores, etc. Leave it about 24-48 hours, put on rubber, latex or nitrile gloves, and scrub with a toothbrush until all paint is removed. Rinse off and let dry.

Next, sand off any defects, mold lines flash, etc. Put the body on a painting stand of some kind, I use a bent clothes hanger. Spray a light coat of good quality primer, followed 15-20 minutes alter by a second heavier coat. I use Walmart Color Place, others us Dupli-color, etc. When dry, about 12-24 hours, sand again with fine sandpaper like 320, 400, or higher. If you sand through the primer, touchup with primer. Priming will reveal defects not previously noticed.

When you are satisfied with the smoothness of the primer, you're ready to move on to paint. First a light misty coat of color, followed 15-20 minutes later by a heavier coat that covers, and later, a third or more heavier coat for smoothness and coverage.

You may want to practice praying on scrap plastic or corrugated plastic signs to learn how close and how fast to spray the paint. Always warm the paint can in very warm water (NOT boiling) for better spraying, it works best that way.

After the paint has dried several days, then polish it if needed with a good polish. I use turtle wax.

This is kind of a summary. Do a search on this forum on painting and you'll learn a lot more.

Gary

Edited December 9, 2009 by BigGary

[Harold]

Tom,

Let me see if I can consolidate some of this info and add a little.

First, take the kit out of the box and wash all none chrome parts in warm soapy water and air dry. For your already painted kit put it in the "purple pool", that is Castrol Super Clean or Purple Power, available at Walmart, auto parts stores, etc. Leave it about 24-48 hours, put on rubber, latex or nitrile gloves, and scrub with a toothbrush until all paint is removed. Rinse off and let dry.

Next, sand off any defects, mold lines flash, etc. Put the body on a painting stand of some kind, I use a bent clothes hanger. Spray a light coat of good quality primer, followed 15-20 minutes alter by a second heavier coat. I use Walmart Color Place, others us Dupli-color, etc. When dry, about 12-24 hours, sand again with fine sandpaper like 320, 400, or higher. If you sand through the primer, touchup with primer. Priming will reveal defects not previously noticed.

When you are satisfied with the smoothness of the primer, you're ready to move on to paint. First a light misty coat of color, followed 15-20 minutes later by a heavier coat that covers, and later, a third or more heavier coat for smoothness and coverage.

You may want to practice praying on scrap plastic or corrugated plastic signs to learn how close and how fast to spray the paint. Always warm the paint can in very warm water (NOT boiling) for better spraying, it works best that way.

After the paint has dried several days, then polish it if needed with a good polish. I use turtle wax.

This is kind of a summary. Do a search on this forum on painting and you'll learn a lot more.

Gary

He's pretty much nailed it here, Grasor. I use rattle cans (mostly Dupli- Color) on all my models. If you go that route, always use an automotive grade primer so you don't craze the plastic. For body work, use a two- part auto body filler such as Bondo. For more info, Bill "Mr. Obsessive" Geary has a great tutorial ongoing in the "On the workbench" section of the forum, where he's building a '49 Mercury and showing how to do things step by step. Even I've learned new stuff from it. Good luck and welcome to the loony bin.

[Grasor]

Thanks guys! That was very helpful. I'll check out the workbench.

[Steelgears13]

I'm no pro, but I've always had decent luck w/the rustoleum spray cans. I usually try to lay down nice even coats, and do at least 2, maybe 3 as needed. Just my two cents, and thats all its worth!

[Scalefinishes]

Paint on the body? No way! I still use rattle cans but am trying to wean myself off and move over to an airbrush. Check out Donn Yost's DVD "The Art of Airbrushing Show Quality Models Cars". www.oldmansmodels.com There's also somebody on this forum that has them for $23.00. Terrific video!

Several people have posts about painting - do a search in the Tips & Techniques section.

I have the video at Scalefinishes.com, and as soon as I get them back in stock, the price will only be $20 W/free shipping.

[Grasor]

I have the video at Scalefinishes.com, and as soon as I get them back in stock, the price will only be $20 W/free shipping.

I'll be sure to check back for it. Any ETA on when it will be back in stock?

I have the body in the "purple pool" right now, will be done soaking tonight and I'll clean it off. I bought some automotive primer from Advance Auto and some black & orange spray paint as well. Once I finish, I'll try to post some pics. May be a couple of weeks though.

[Jantrix]

For rattle cans I've had good results from Tamiya, Testors one coat lacquers, Duplicolor and Krylon.

[Grasor]

Guys, I've finished soaking the body in the purple pool and the previous paint came right off! I let it dry overnight and then sprayed the two coats of black primer on like was suggested. I can already tell this is going to work very well.

I did want to ask about the sanding. I have the 400 grit paper but am not sure what I am looking to do sanding wise. It seems smooth already. Any advice there?

[mr moto]

Welcome to the forum and the hobby!! I'll stay out of the painting instruction mode and just say that you shouldn't get impatient and expect great paint jobs right away. I think almost everybody on this forum will tell you that painting just has a learning curve and you'll improve over time. Stick with it, try out advice from the forum if it sound good to you and after a while you'll have a method that works for you. Don't be afraid to try things. And you came to the right place. This is the best forum for the model car hobby!

BTW, I don't remember where I got this info - maybe on another forum - but Krylon has changed their formula and the new Krylon is NOT compatible with the old Krylon. So beware! The old formula is still available as Krylon Industrial but it probably won't be available at the usual retail outlets. I haven't had a chance to try the new formula but I'm told that it's an enamel.

BTW#2: The UFO in my avatar was painted with Krylon straight from the rattlecan. It looks good if you don't look too close!

Edited December 11, 2009 by mr moto

[Grasor]

Doh! I had it on the paint stand and started spraying the paint on. I did the first coat real light, then came back about 20-25 minutes later and applied the second coat. I noticed it was a little heavy on one of the fender flares and wasn't sure what to do. So I used a paper towel...and the rest is history lol. It looks good on all sides but that one, which is a disaster. I guess I'll purple pool it again

[Scalefinishes]

I'll be sure to check back for it. Any ETA on when it will be back in stock?

The DVD is in stock now!