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Posted

So what is it youre suppose to wash the resin in before primer and paint prep begins??? I just bought my first resin piece. I remember reading something years ago that you have to wash the parts in something first. what is that "something"?

Posted (edited)

Westley's Bleche Wite whitewall cleaner. :(

I soak the resin parts at least overnight to remove the mold release . Sometimes I forget and it turns into weeks . Wash with Ivory soap and thouroghly rinse . Ivory leaves no residue being 99.9% pure soap . No lanolin to soften skin to combat the drying effects of the soap . After a couple of days , spray with adhesion promoter . Then primer following the directions . I would fix any flaws before thr Adhesion Promoter . Use this step especially if you plan to use foil . I hope this helps ..Thanx..

Edited by dimaxion
Posted

If there's so much mold release on the part that it feels greasy, the usual cleaners (Naptha, Westley's, Prep Sol) don't work. Don't ask me how I know this :lol::)

If the parts/body don't feel squeaky clean before painting...use Easy Off oven cleaner. That will cut the greasy silicone mold release once and for all.

Posted

I have painted hundreds of resin bodies - my own castings and from casters around the world and here is what I have to say about it.

The prep is very different depending on whether you use an airbrush or spray cans.

Airbrush. Wet sand your body thoroughly and prime with light coats. That's it. You are ready to paint.

Spraycans. They put a lot of extra solvents in spray can paint to keep it sprayable and so it will flow out better. These solvents react with the parts of the resin itself and create horrible fisheyes on the surface. Most resins used for model cars have a self releasing chemical that forms on the surface. That is what everyone is trying to deal with when they are soaking their bodies - which you don't need to if you airbrush. If you still insist on using spray cans go ahead and soak it. You can also use bug and tar remover or Prep-sol which is a cleaner sold at auto body supply. I have used the bug and tar remover and it works just fine and is cheaper. Bob's idea to use Easy-off should work too.

Whichever way you go be sure to thoroughly wet sand the surface with a fine grit. That is your best way to combat fisheyes and get a good finish.

Posted

thanks guys, I knew it was something like that. I did wash the body under water and sand it but i spray primed it and after it dried i went to sand it again and the primed just wiped off. So I'll soak it to get the primed off then dump it in some bleach white, should be good to go by then.

JJ

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