Longbow Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 (edited) Thought Edited March 18, 2010 by Longbow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whale392 Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Very nice work so far. I am having a bit of trouble fitting mine (as I am trying to get three .062" pieces of solder to fit into one .090" hole......I am building a header set-up for twin turbos on an inline6). What are you going to use to join the 4 pipes together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan White Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Don't worry too much about the duplication, there's a lot of times where the headers are different on either side due to clearance issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwc43 Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 The best way to do it and make it look real is to epoxy a short pice of tubing to the end of all 4 pipes then slide a piece of shrink tubing over the tube and 4 smaller tubes and heat it up. Once it shrinks it will form to the 4 smaller tubes. Then just paint it to match and it will look about as real as you can get it to look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whale392 Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 (edited) I have tried soldering the solder together (with limited good results). I think the more I practice, the better I will get and the more realistic it will end up looking. I have tried the CA and epoxy glues before with very limited success; however it does work well when bonding them to plastic. And to elaborate on an earlier post; headers from side to side are most often times different to clear things like starters, motor mounts, steering shafts..........so I wouldn't worry if they are not an exact mirror of each other. Edited February 19, 2010 by whale392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneyzs Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 (edited) This is very awesome!!! And not to mention it is looking very good. I think I may have to go pick some solder adn try this myself. Keep us posted with more pics. Looks great. Ment to also add that I had one pair of headers on a small block chevy engine that the driver side sat and inch lower than the other so like the others here don't worry if they aren't exactly the same. Edited February 19, 2010 by Mooneyzs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Looking excellent Gary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
your pal Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Man that looks great for a first timer.If you paint them would you have to do any special prep for solder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Man that looks great for a first timer.If you paint them would you have to do any special prep for solder? THAT IS LOOKING GREAT,,AND A GREAT IDEA TO USE SOLDER,,,ALSO THE SHRINK TUBE OVER THE COLLECTORS,, IM LOVING THIS SITE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Heres my latest set.....still need to polish them up and make a flange. Another.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 99GT - I'd like to see the styrene headers. The solder I use for stained glass has a larger diameter than what Longbow used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 Roger those are jaw droppers!!!!!Nicely done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diymirage Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 OK guys,here's a couple of pix. Sorry about the poor pic quality,but I didn't feel like dragging out my box and lights. The color of the engine is actual Ford engine blue. These headers are made from .080 rod and glued with Tenax. The collectors are open so that I can slide the exhaust up into them. This engine is going into a Monogram '91 F-150. The engine and headers both need some touching up from handling. that is a nice picture of the kit headers now, where are those scratchbuild one ? great job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 I like your .o62 solder headers gary but haven't found that size solder. I like your Evergreen rod headers Roger and was wondering if you answer a question or more? Do you work the rod together off the engine or drill the heads, glue the rod and work one pipe at a time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 Aha - Radio Shack. Next week when I'm up towards Ocala. Thanks. Ignition wire I get from Rick at Scale Dreams. He has lots of colors and they fit through the Model Car Garage wire looms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuel Coupe Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 Great job on the headers. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, I read somewhere (thought it was here) that to use solid core solder and not rosin core. Something to do with the flux leeching out of the solder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 (edited) Great job on the headers. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, I read somewhere (thought it was here) that to use solid core solder and not rosin core. Something to do with the flux leeching out of the solder almost correct...do not use acid core due to leakage. my rosen core solders are 4 years old to current and no leaks yet...solid core is usually to thick and stiff to work with . I think Dave Zinn has a shot of the acid leaking headers ... Edited February 28, 2010 by MikeMc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuel Coupe Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 almost correct...do not use acid core due to leakage. my rosen core solders are 4 years old to current and no leaks yet...solid core is usually to thick and stiff to work with . I think Dave Zinn has a shot of the acid leaking headers ... Thanks Mike, I knew there was something about that. I just couldn't remember what it was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 I think they look great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Sumner Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 Jim, I got my .062 rosin core solder from the Radio Shack, they also have size .030 wrapping wire which works great for plug wires. I don't mean to critisize but are you quoting the right size for ignition wire as .030? As I think about that, if you are using .062 for the header pipes, that equates to 1 1/2" diameter exhaust pipes in 1:1 scale. So it would follow the that a wire size of .030 is just about exactly half of the header pipe size...or...about 3/4" diameter in 1:1 scale. That would be a pretty thick ignition wire!!! In actuality (1:1 scale) an 8mm ignition wire is .315 inch. This would result in a wire that should be approximately .012" diameter. And to help further, in 1/25th scale, an exhaust pipe of 2" diameter equates to .080, a 1 7/8" pipe equates to .075, a 1 3/4" pipe equates to .070. Not too many headers smaller than 1 3/4" diameter. The .062 would equal a pipe 1 1/2" diameter. You're modeling a full-on race big block there and it would use 2" pipes probably. Hope this helps. Terry Sumner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwc43 Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 Not too many headers smaller than 1 3/4" diameter. Terry Sumner Actually that statement is not correct either. All street headers use 1 5/8 primaries. Race headers start in the 1 5/8 stepped to 1 3/4 or start at 1 3/4 without using a step. The step gives a broader torque curve over using just a bigger primary. Here's a set of 1 5/8 Hooker headers for a 'vette. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-2456-1HKR/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Sumner Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 You are of course correct in that many street headers are that small. I was trying to make my observations based primarily on what the OP was building...a full-on race big block. Not too many 1 5/8" inch headers used for big block race engines that I've ever seen! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwc43 Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 You are of course correct in that many street headers are that small. I was trying to make my observations based primarily on what the OP was building...a full-on race big block. Not too many 1 5/8" inch headers used for big block race engines that I've ever seen! Ahhh, I see where you were going now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Sumner Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 No problem at all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pharr7226 Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 Longbow, nice job on your first try at making headers. Terry, thanks for the info. I will definitely save it and use it on future projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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