anybody know how to make compression fittings

[lanesteele240]

i was shocked to see that AN compression fittings were so expensive. they are like 10 bucks for a pinky full at my local model shop and more after shipping on Feebay. i found some 2mm and 2.5mm beads at hobby lobby that could be used but they are round. any ideas so i dont have to knock over an ATM just to be able to detail an engine

[modelman71]

another trick..large diameter solier a few passes with a file to shape and as someone else said use a sharpie to color

[Jeff Sauber]

I use plastruct hex rod in various diameters...It's a little more tedious to cut, shape, and drill....etc, but once painted, it's nearly impossible to tell them apart from the aluminum ones.

I also use pro tech braided hose exclusively. It's the best scale hose on the market.

[Casey]

IMHO, this is a situation where it's best to pay up and buy the real fittings instead of trying to come up with a cheaper solution. The real fittings (and the nice Detail Master scale versions) are not simply hex shaped pieces of various lengths, so unless you're willing to do a lot of very tedious work to replicate the real fittings, I suggest you bite the bullet and buy the pre-made fittings.

I guess it depends upon how close is close engough for you, really. The naked eye is very good at noticing small differences between what something looks liek and what it should look like, so if you want accuracy, use the most accurate scale product.

You're right that the fittings, hoses, and hard lines aren't cheap, though. I probably spent close to $100.00 at Model Empre in '96 for all of the pre-made line pieces for this 1/16 scale Funny Car:

[LDO]

[Jeff Sauber]

At first, the hex rod can be a bit fussy to work with, but after a little practice, it's gets pretty easy.

The hardest part is trying to drill out the center of the rod evenly. Cutting them off isn't too bad. You just roll the rod back and forth under a sharp hobby knife. You can also try using a miter box for more even and uniform cutting for those with unsteady hands..

I've got a little system for doing this that I use, and I can usually produce about 15-20 fittings in about 20 minutes or so.

After they are all shaped and painted up, it's pretty hard to tell that it's hex rod and not some fancy aluminum piece....besides, with as much race car stuff that I do, I'm not about to spend 300 or 400 bucks in itsy bitsy hose fittings......Sorry, not going to happen.

For me, making as much stuff as I can is much more rewarding than buying mass produced items off the rack.

Edited April 14, 2010 by J. Sauber

[lanesteele240]

i am gonna try the bead tube and the hex rod idea. i had to anodize the hub lug on a Japanese touring car so i chromed it with alcad and sprayed it with clear red. it looked so real that i might try it on the hex fittings.

[Foxer]

The hardest part is trying to drill out the center of the rod evenly.

I agree with you, Jay. What's your secret to getting a centered hole in the rod? I get in about an eighth of a inch and it's starting to come out the side.

[whale392]

Like Mr.Sauber, I use the Hex rod from Plastruct and cut it to the length I need. As for drilling the hole, I tape the fitting down, use an Xacto Panel scribe tool for the initial indent (kind-of center-punching it), and then start to drill with a #78 drill bit.....slowly working it up to the size hole I need. The take serves 3 purposes: 1) holds the 'fitting' tight against my work surface...2) provides a 'tooth' for the scribe tool to help align to and bite into...3) keeps the fitting from splitting or deforming as the drill bit size increases. Once they are completed, I tape them in line and shoot them in any of the various 'chrome' paint, then when dry, use Tamiya transparent paints to give them their appropriate color.

Edited April 14, 2010 by whale392

[Jeff Sauber]

I agree with you, Jay. What's your secret to getting a centered hole in the rod? I get in about an eighth of a inch and it's starting to come out the side.

I usually only drill into the rod about a 1/8-1/2 inch or so. After that, the drill will want to wander off center and you'll end up with fittings that are crooked and will look like poop.

It takes a little practice to get the drill going in straight, but even only a 1/2 inch or so into the rod will still yeild about 5 or 6 decent fittings which is pretty good.

Always start with a smaller size drill bit and gently work your way up till the hole is big enough to accomodate the hose diameter. If you don't drill the piece out wide enough, the fitting could tear open if you force it over the hose. Most of the red fittings will have a taper to them so be sure to sand the taper before cutting the fittings off from the rod stock. Once the fitting is a seperate piece, it will no longer be very easy to work with and re-shape unless you slide it onto a peice of aluminum rod, toothpick, or the like to use as a handle.

Edited April 14, 2010 by J. Sauber

[astroracer]

When i built my Pro Street Buick back in '89 I hit on the idea of filing down 1/16 aluminum tubing. I taped one end of a 12" piece to my model table and filed it off it with a flat file. I then rolled it over to the flat side and filed it again. I thought it would be hard to keep the hex shape but then I saw my pin vise, it is hex shaped. I chucked the tube in the pin vise and just rolled the vise to the next flat after filing. After 5 mins of filing I had 12" of hex shaped aluminum tubing... I simply part them off with the hobby knife. A little care with a sanding stick and you can put a nice angle on each piece before parting it off.

Mark S.