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Posted

Well first off you're going to have to figure out how big of tires you want. 9 times out of 10 you will have to narrow the rear section of the frame for a set of slicks to fit. This usually can be done cutting off the rear portion of the frame, adding a new crossmember, and then a new narrower rear sub frame. After thats done you can make your tubs. I personally like to use metal because its easy to form and it holds it shape. With plastic you'll need a heat source to get the tubs to hold there shape. One trick that helps in the process is to make a template first... index cards work well here. Once you got the template to fit ok transfer it to the metal or styrene. You'll still need to trim a bit to get a good fit. Once one side is done its only a matter of tracing the pattern again. Don't be surprised if this takes some trial and error... it'll take plenty of paietence.

This is a set of "mini" tubs I built for an Outlaw 10.5 Corvette i'm working on... there's still some work that needs to be done on them (notice the tubs aren't perfectly flush with the body, that drives me nuts!!) but hopefully this will give you a clearer picture with the explanation above.

IMG_0410.jpg

Another option you have is to find an already "tubbed" kit. The Revell 67 Chevelle Pro Street is great for this or the AMT 70 Superbee Pro Street. These kits already have the work done its only a matter of getting them to fit by trimming the tubs. You can also just cut off the rear portion of the frame and mold it to any other frame you want.

Hope this helps some!!

Posted

In making trailer fenders I inadvertantly came upon the solution for wheel tubs also. After all they both have the same shape, just that one goes on the inside and the other goes on the outside. The process takes a bandsaw or very careful work with a coping saw. All you need to do is find a piece of wood, a 3/4 X 4" X 4" for instance and trace the wheel on the surface of the wood. Then cut along the line. When finished you will have two pieces. The saw blade will give you a gap when the two pieces are put together again. Then take a piece of styrene and "sandwich" in between the two pieces and force them together. Heat your oven to 350 degrees. When the oven reaches temperature, put your project in and give it about 15 minutes. Then, take it out and let it cool. You now have a wheel tub ( or fender ). Repeat again for the other tub ( or fender ).

bob :shock:

Posted

Another option is swapping chassis. Kit bashing. Many of the Pro-Street, Pro-Mod and Pro-Stock kits have nicely done chassis which will fit under other cars with little to no modifications. Find a kit which is similar in shape and wheel base and you will be on the right track.

As an example:

I started building a Pro-Mod style '71 Satellite. I used the Revell Red Hot Pro-Stock Thunderbird chassis under it. It fit like a glove, even the roll cage, with only the addition of some sheet stock in the rear wheel wells to flush it out to the wider Satellite body.

Mark@MAS

www.mas-parts.com

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I know this is a little late, but a good way I have found to tub out wheel wells is to use prescription pill bottles. A buddy of mine gave me this tip a while back. Find a pill bottle that is a little bigger than your wheel, cut it to width, and then cut it in half. You will have wheel wells for both sides of the model :lol:

VG

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Try harvesting the wheel tubs out of a stock car kit, those are pretty big and you could probably razor saw what you want out of it fairly easily.

Bob

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

:idea:I went to the local home center (HOME DEPOT) and got a scrap piece of the 1 1/2" thin black plastic pipe.It's got a very thin wall and can be glued with Zap or any other type of "crazy glue" or Plastruct liquid works fine. Paul

  • 7 years later...
Posted

i use a soda can i cut it open first then flatten it out then take a small piece poster board roll it & trim it to fit with scissors &before i roll it i polish it out

  • 3 weeks later...

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