Who here uses PPG automotive clear on their models?

[Matt T.]

Irvin Arter Jr. & Brian Nehring do, I think.

Anyways, I'm researching getting into using this. I saw on another board that a Harbor Freight gravity-feed automotive paint gun & compressor are all that's needed.

Can I spray this in my Paasche paint booth in the basement? Or is it too nasty/unhealthy for anything but the garage?

Can I use a portable air tank instead of a compressor?

Can I use this over Tamiya & Testors acrylic lacquers?

Any other tips?

I'm trying to lay down an awesome wet coat of clear without having to spend hours with the 3200-12000 polishing cloths. I think my model building hobby would be more enjoyable that way.

Thanks in advance!

[MonoPed]

Good news and bad news using catylized urethanes. First the good:

You can use your Paasche, and use a compressor, or an air tank or CO2 tank. It works fine over Tamiya lacquer (I've not used Testors lacquer), Duplicolor, Cobra Colors, PPG, ect. I've used it over decals with good results as well. Because it is catylized, it cure pretty quick, dries rock hard, and doesn't turn yellow. If you have it mixed and reduced correctly, you spray out a very nice, smooth finish right from the airbrush.

The bad news: DO NOT spray this in your house unless you have some serious ventilation to get the fumes outdoors. I advise that you absolutely use a respirator that is rated for materials with VOC, and leave the sprayed body out in the garage untill it cures. It's a good idea to use proper protection for any paint, but the catylized paints are more harmful to your lungs when inhaled.

Overall it's good stuff, and pretty easy to use. Just be sure to be safe, follow the mix ratios and directions provided by the manufacturer, and do a couple practice pieces to get the feel of the material. Regular box-store lacquer thinner will clean the airbrush, so save the PPG reducer for spraying. Good luck, and be sure to post your results!

Brian

[Matt T.]

Thanks for the info, Brian. I knew it was pretty harsh, fumes-wise. Maybe I'll just decant some DupliColor or Tamiya clear into a spray gun and go that route instead.

I've resisted using my airbrush because of the cleanup involved; it's just so easy to heat a rattlecan, spray and cap it and be done. But I'm thinking - since I only complete 3-4 cars a year - why not airbrush on a nice wet coat of clear to ease my polishing woes? Whaddaya think? Is that what you do?

Is my old single-action airbrush good enough, or should I buy a $15 gravity feed detail gun from Harbor Freight?

Thanks again!

[Zoom Zoom]

Using an airbrush isn't going to save you from polishing; I get as-good or usually smoother results straight from a Tamiya rattlecan than any airbrushed clear. I know some of the guys use touchup guns and urethane clears and they come out really smooth, but often I find those clearcoats to be a bit too thick and I often see them fill up fine panel lines.

3-4 paintjobs a year isn't much polishing time; get a good coat of rattlecan Tamiya clear in place and you can hit it w/3600-6000 grit then compound and often it only takes 15-30 minutes to polish...much longer if there are a lot of parts to polish out or if it's a dark color.

If you do get a gun/airbrush for clear, it's a good idea as you won't get cross-contamination with other paints you might shoot through the gun, even the tiniest of specs of paint residue will undoubtely end up on your finished clear.

[Matt T.]

Thanks Bob. Lots of good points there as well.

I just finished polishing my '32 pickup in Tamiya Italian Red and clear. The red came out a little darker than the can top because I put it over gray primer. I ended up doing 3200-12000 and it came out nice. But it took me probably 4 hours over several nights. It had a lot of small, intricate areas, thanks to the body reveals of the '32s, fender lips, etc. But, it was worth it!

I guess talking about polishing right after polishing is like grocery shopping while hungry - don't do it. :oops:

Thanks for the reality check.

[MonoPed]

Your single action airbrush is just fine - technique has more impact on a finish than the tools. Bob made a good point about cross contamination, I have a seperate #3 tip for my Paasche VL that only gets used for clear, even though I am pretty picky about cleaning my airbrush after each session.

[Michael in Illinois]

I have been using PPG lacquer for 10 years now. I shoot it out of my paasche single action gun. I have a paint booth set up in the basement and have had no odor problems. My brush is feed with a portable air tank.

After I give my project 2 or 3 coats of clear, I give it another coat but this time I put more in more thinner. This gives me a smooth finish with little polishing. Hope this helps.

[Marc @ MPC Motorsports]

Matt,

On all my models, I use Tamiya spray primer, HOK thru an airbrush or Tamiya or Testors lacquer sprays, and Tamiya spray clear. Polishing is easy for me. I use 4000 and 6000 Micro Mesh, Wizards Finish Cut, and Meguier's #26 carnuba wax once I'm sure I won't be painting any more.

I can polish out a paint job in an evening from start to finish. I love seeing the process from start to finish. I've learned how to be careful to avoid burn thru. My '71 GTO has once again tested my patience as it has been colored twice and cleared twice, correcting flaws (some major) along the way. But what started to be a "not so hot" finish is going to be killer once I finish polish it.

I too only do 3-4 paint jobs per year but I'm looking to increase that output by changing my build style to more curbsides and slammers. I have friends that shoot two part urethane clear and they swear by it. But only one of them does NOT polish the clear. I refuse to use it because of the fumes. My Pace paint booth removes all traces of Tamiya TS-13 from the room, and until I got the booth all my painting was done in the garage.

[Irvin Arter Jr.]

I have been using the PPG paints for quite a while now but, I spray all types of mediums. I only spray the PPG urethane clears at my brothers body shop in the booth with the proper fresh air gear. I do not spray them at home and am undesided if I ever will since my paint booth is in my basement. I am currently designing a new booth so I will see how it goes. The new urethanes are alot less work but, you have to address the health issues with them.

[MadKawDisease]

If you do decide to use the urethane clear, make sure you buy a good cartridge respirator ,There cheap and will last a long time if you keep it sealed in a zip lock bag when not in use, and the cartridge can be replaced cheaply.

The paper ones don't remove the harmfull fumes. Paper is for dust only !

[mcandela]

Michael from Illinois hits the mark. Spray a couple of coats and one last thinned coat. Results from Tamiya are very good also, but remember this is paint created for models. PPG clear coats tend to be thicker. I have sprayed PPG over evrything, Duplicolor, even nailpolish and worked OK for me. I just happen to have hot and dry weather.(I live in the carribean).

Just my 2 cents.

[larrygre]

My favorite has always been Ditzler Hi-Performance Clear. Never yellows and polishes beautifully. I usually use a non-penetrating thinner with the stuff.